rck_climber's Logbook (57 ascents)

Great climb, although the 25' first bolt (with no place to set pro) is freaky every time. Was my first onsight lead in 1998. Have done it a number of times since. Crux is going around the base of the finger. Jam a right arm in the ever-widening crack at the base of the finger (3" at it's thinnest) and work up and left to jugs above, just below the anchors. Great belay spot there - bring a long runner to clip into the anchors with.

What better way to spend Thanksgiving Day than to surmount one of the most amazing climbs in Colorado - for the 38th time :-). My old partner and his lovely bride, Jamie, came to town to celebrate Turkey day with us, so we reminisced on the good ol' days by hitting up one of our favorites.
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The start is still tricky and a bit off-balanced, while stepping onto the spine after the pothole-threaded third piece never seems to get any easier. You are immediately greeted by LOADS of exposure on all sides as you carefully step your way to the top.
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Great rappel, next time, remember to use the figure 8 - those ropes are heavy :-).

An incredible line that my partner, Emil and I noticed. It lies in between two established routes in the guide, but I was dying to try this line. It is incredibly thin, pulling on half-pad crimpers all the way up. In fact, I found myself pulling on single crystals to make progress. When we finished up, we decided to name it - Emil's vote was for "Ren and Crimpy" and mine was for "Sinfully Thin", it was a close vote, but "Sinfully Thin" won out. If anybody knows a different name for it, let me know, but otherwise, it's Sinfully Thin from hence forth :-). Make sure you rap or lower w/ a 200' rope, it just makes it. GREAT LINE!!!

Nice warm-up route that follows the obvious black streak to chained anchors. Fun, crimpy route that's uniform in it's difficulty.

REALLY HARD!! Climb up the easy rock to the first bolt - you can barely reach it from a good stance (at least for me standing 5'6" tall). Not sure if I was off-route or not, but it seems there's NO way to climb directly up, it's a featureless wall. Instead, I went right to an obvious crack and work up and left where it widens to fists. Reach far left and down some to clip the second bolt. Continue to work the crack to the left using an undercling open-hand friction type deal. Work left under the 3rd bolt above to a small nose in the crack. Surmount this and reach far to the right to clip. Crux is going to the 4th bolt. Edge up the left side on a sick-thin crack and nothing edges and reach far right to clip the 4th bolt. Finish on slightly easier rock to the summit anchors.

A fantastic climb up thin granite slab. While the holds are small, they are always there, the fun is in finding them, like a big "hold hide and seek" game. Long, calf-burning, route on dime edges that finishes at the anchors for Moby Grape. High first bolt, but easy to get there.

Yes, it's still one of my favorites on this face (although Unknown 9+ might just be my new favorite). Starts out below the obvious nose and scales easy rock to the base of the nose. A few good moves clips to the left on the nose and you're over. Finish on increasingly thinner slab to 2"-wide ledge on slab w/ 2-bolt anchor. Rap w/ 2 ropes.

Really fun dihedral climb. A multitude of options for holds in the easy corner. A great place to work a number of basic climbing moves for beginners; from stemming and smearing to laybacking and edging. A good layback crack on the left wall lets you walk up the first 30'. Then take your show on the slab with numerous good holds in the corner. The crux is scaling the last 10' to the 2-bolt anchors with green and red slings - it's vertical rock (seems more so after climbing the low-angle slab the whole way up) with a bunch of good holds but some awkward positioning.

AWESOME route!!! Can [i]just[/i] get laid back to pull on the crack and walk up the right wall of the wide dihedral. Freaky runout to the first bolt though, best off to set a piece or two despite the easy climbing to it.

Great warm-up bouldering for the routes that lie on the wall opposite the boulders. Fun pulling on friendly, incut, albeit sharp, edges.