robrox's Logbook (11 ascents)

A friend and I had started on the South Face 200 feet above the start of this line and went a different way to the top at the traverse. Determined to find more interesting and longer pure rock sections I returned to the South face a year and a month later. I stayed at the Pennacook Shelter so my appraoch was not entirely via the Liberty Trail.

I bushwhacked a few minutes above the Jim Liberty Cabin to a 30-meter face. Rope soloed that at 5.3 and from the top I got a look at brush and faces above.

Pushed through the brush to reach a third class ledge. Walked right to the base of an 8 meter 5.4 wall below the first real climbing. Bouldered that and bushwhacked to the next wall to set the anchor for a right running 5.7 horizontal crack traverse at or beyond vertical. Some small trees were slung above the greatest exposure just before the crux transition to a more rising traverse. One solid piece after that to a runout before the next two pieces. The pitch finished with a 5.5 mantle to the blueberries and around a dead tree (35 feet past a #4 stopper). The pitch used 55 meters of rope.

A short rightwards bushwhack gained the base of the ChocoLatte face. The start was very exciting as I couldn't see any pro and it was 5.7 or better for 20 feet. Good pro was found at 20 feet, followed by 50 meters of 5.5 in runnel cracks on very slabby ground to gain good anchors below a blocky overhang.

The last pitch began with a scramble over the blocky bits, with one pinch slung for pro above the anchor and ran out another 35 feet to a thin overlap at the base of the Latte section. A fall would have been bad but it was easy walking on a sun dappled slab to the overlap crack, where I got in a TCU. It remained very easy walking to the top of the crag with three pieces over the last 30 meters.

Fooling around with my new camera, no award winner but it turned out ok even if I was puffing like a steam engine with a busted valve: Here's the vimeo link - http://vimeo.com/12008251
I would have picked 5.0 for difficulty, if it was available.

Bushwhacked a bit, then crossed massive boulder field to reach Lion's Head Gully. Ascended loose scree to base and bushwhacked beneath one short climb to reach the wet alcove beneath the longer dihedral. Tough start, then very easy to delicate face work amidst some loose. Midway, I found some stemming in ruggosities w/o positive holds, very secure with excellent pro. Loose flakes and rocks on belay ledge beneath diving board.

Bushwhack via Hillmans Highway 1.5 hrs from Hermit Lake. Done in 5 pitches, but the first two (30m & 28m) could have been combined as only the starting moves were 5th class. Pitch 3 and above all 5th class. 3rd, 4th and 5th pitches very entertaining!

Reached via Boott Spur trail and down scrambling to mid height. Line ascends obvious weaknesses of the north facing section. Some loose. Tricky to keep a single strand off the edgy rocks, but doable without too much drag. There were some awkward runouts with ledgefall potential. The lines on the WNW face of The Cathedral look more exposed and interesting.

Rapped to base and did some TR nearer to the North Arete. Pulled rope and committed to an untried route that started left instead of straight up and right. Second piece came out after the two cams wer placed way off left and about 40 feet up. The traverse back right was scary due to groundfall potential in the middle part of the route. Easy and good pro after that. Scrumptious berries guzzled as a reward.

Rope-solo repeat of rope-solo FA. Upper section of first pitch iced-up in the 5.6 stemming section..had to go about 5.8 crack climbing because of the ice. Second pitch was dry

Made notes for a 50 meter slab climb 150 meters south of the top of Choco Dihedrals, just below the summit and a 3 pitch variety show to the summit a bit farther south.

Rope Solo, no Beta. 40 min bushwhack starts 3.3 miles from trailhead. Approach from the top is possible but what fun is that? Wonderful easy crack climbing on both pitches. Very peaceful setting and lots of moderate climbs in sight.

Rope solo, no guide or beta.

Rope Solo climb, partner bailed due to extreme cold affecting feet the previous winter. Good bivvy nearby