scarpodog's Logbook (31 ascents)

Helmut Microys lines are always interesting and make leaders cut their teeth .

I really got surprised about the quality of this line, it is worthy!

A great climb, one of those hidden gems, going trough a series of roofs (3) each one harder than the one before , the last one is the crux you gotta crank 4 moves, the first 2 on good holds, the 3rd and 4th on very bad ones, great exposure right there!, good luck! , good foot work helps. small cams till 1.5 inch , red an pink tricams and #0 C3 , #00 C3 are helpful.

poor protection on the first section, you may find place for a BD cooper #6 at 12 ft, that may protect you for another 4 ft after that you gotta run out for another 6, 7 ft that puts you on a grounder situation before you get to a nice little ledge were you are able to put a bomber PINK tricam, but anyways that is not the crux, after that protection goes good all the way up good times tricky exposed traverse.

onsight winter ascent, on winter boots and numb fingers, what a great time

you can go left or right at the end after the cave , I went left, its a very nice run out traverse with some exposure before you gain a little ledge were you can get a pice right before the the crux on the moves to finish the line. I did it on winter boots NICE!

another great line on this side of the cliff, good protection most of the way up, the line go straight all the way to the top, but you gotta run out the last 2 mts, the holds are good, but it is overhang an you feel lots of exposure , hooo maann! that section is soooo relaxing.

protection is good but is hard to see it from the ground, you can avoid the bolts and the pitons with BD C3s , some small nuts and big balls. One of the most pleasant, sustained 5.9 routes on Milton.

Crux mostly at the beginning. I managed to put a metolius TCU #1 at 10 ft from the ground and found a very narrow spot for a .3 BD cam just 1ft higher at the begin of the crux, i was fighting to unlock the moves but it was so polished that my hand just slipped and I fell down, the BD failed but my belayer was paying attention so he took rope the most he can and after having leaned his self back the metolius caught me just a few inches from the ground, (Nice catch Pietro!) after the fall on the next attempt found the trick, past the crux and the rest was just plain fun! I still remember the scary block a the end it looks like it s gonna be detached at any moment, and is huge.

it was our first trip to Devils Glen and we arrived on a snow storm to the crag and there was already 5 inch of snow on the ground , the trees, and the top of the lines, it was october 31, and arriving from Toronto it was like grounding to another planet but we didn't care having been climbing for a full winter 3 days a week at Mt. Nemo it has pay off and put some confidence on our harnesses. So we went for the prize, One of the Finest 5.8 pieces of Ontario, ' The Nut Cracker ' a route that follow a beautiful corner crack that curves in to an overhanging crux, my belayer was a bit concerned about the conditions snow was still falling and the line was a bit wet, but to my these were especial conditions, knowing that the first ascenders were hard bold scarpodog climbers that stay on the rock despite of the weather , inspire me. So I went for the Onsight ascent scarpodog style, there under the snow on the wet I juiced every single lieback on de crux enjoying every single smear getting in communion with the elements going trough the fear that I may slip on the wet , but without hesitation on my moves, I toped out with a spidery sensation all over my body to a 6 inch of snow were I start to play on it like a good SCARPODOG. One of the best climbing days of the year .