scracus's Logbook (13 ascents)

DO NOT DRY TOOL AT CHANDLER PARK! THIS IS A BOULDERING AREA NOT AN AREA TO BE F ING UP WITH ICE TOOLS!

"The Word" (stand start) is a V5. The sit start is a V7. Not even in the same universe as the real V9's at Chandler Park

Jack Dixon

This prob was an obvious line on a mostly blank section. Many variations have climbed across this section, see "Wallstreet Pull" or "Right Angle" but, "Reef Direct" with it's off routing of the big undercling to the left and the low start with both hands in the tips undercling, is the defining of the V9 grade at Chandler. It is a bad-ass line that is for the finger fit the whole way. It has seen probably 7 or 8 sends and is the gateway for the want to be hard-man in Tulsa. I first did this prob in 95' and it took me the better part of 15 or 20 days of working it to get the FA. good luck and happy crimping!

Jack Dixon
p.s. the description above doesn't sound that accuate like it came from someone who hasn't seen or done the actual beta. later

I think that the name is wrong. I'm not recording my ascent but, I think that this route was first done by Larry Harris of Tulsa, in 1991, who called it "Persecuted by Squares". I gave it low quality marks, due to Larry, saying that it was a pile. Clay Frisbie was hanging on Ark Reality watching while Larry onsighted this thing with like one piece of gear and then running out the crux that was too hard for him to protect wherafter he surmounted the roof and untied and soloed off to the side and down. Larry said this was quite scary and I was scared for him as he was in ground fall risk whillst screaming about how pumped he was. Anyway I think this is some history about this route.

Very hard! Hard V7. Tech, fall a lot, good luck I qestion any ascentionists that haven't bouldered V8-9 also it is that hard.

first ascent prob a V4

This was a project of John Payne's that I managed to do before he got it but he was only bouldering in the V4-V6 range and was not going to get it for years if at all. I left the name on it that he gave it and it is a painfull technical finger wrecker with a one finger crimp for your doctor to look at when you are done. ouch

Bad ass problem! Best move is a heel hook on the face where there is really no where to hook. Small holds has seen one female ascent by Jere Boudell in '96. The rating has been up and down. I give it V7 but others have thought much harder. It has only three confirmed sends. Mine first, Larry Harris then Jere.

This problem took many, many tries even after doing the prerequisite, Reef Direct, from which it is derived. It is one of the "Triple Crown" problems at Chandler the other two being "The Strangler" and "North American". Like the descripting says very big moves off small holds with bad feet. Finger power test.

This was not a onsight guess I messed up the record. I worked this problem for about a year consistently after many years of dreaming of the power required to hold oneself off the ground with the holds much less hold one in order to match. Good luck