thecornyman's Logbook (68 ascents)

Kinda soft for a Yosemite 5.9 but none the less really fun and has a few challenges. I think the crux for me was the sustained lay back after the 5.9 roof. I was kinda pumped and kept trying to take a rest.

Fun route and I'd say more physically challenging then Commitment. From reading the reviews I think we missed out on the most exciting part as it was late and we decided to rap at the top of P2. Next time.

Nice route. I exited the roof to the left and I thought the route was kinda soft... roof to the right next time.

Shoulda been a solo

Led first and third and had great fun the entire time. Add a little hail/rain and those nobs aren't as positive as you'd like...

I swapped leads with a party of three. I got P1 and it was kinda boring with a move or two in the 5.8 section. I struggled a little with the OW on P2 and just went out to the 10.b and loved the rest of the pitch. Be careful a few loose rocks on this pitch. P3 was exposed but all there. P4 ladder. All in all I will not repeat.

Thought I was leading the 10b and was feeling pretty good until I got to that 3rd bolt. Tricky move with a nasty sloper and bad feet to clip that one and then kinda sustained for the last 2-3 moves. I got frustrated enough that I went up the corner and set a toprope for this one.

ok route, couple bolts where you need em

Best route I've been on yet. I lead all pitches and loved it.
P1 was a little heady for me but I think I was just settling in for a step up the grade and length I was about to lead.
P2 is the easiest pitch, little steep but easy to protect. I get a .5 purple cam stuck and my follower couldn't clean but I'm guessing it will get cleaned pretty quickly by someone experienced.
P3 Def more than 80 ft to the real belay and is a lot more difficult with a back pack (at least for me since I'm new to chimney climbing). Super topo says no protection but I had no problem. Bring some small nuts but they don't need to be micro.
P4 Crux pitch for me. Find the holds on the left before getting too far up. I chimney-ed up the first moves and then couldn't get to a stemming position and took my only fall on the route (luckily after clipping the piton). You can get 1 or 2 number 4 camelot in before the piton. The view at the top of this pitch is the most breathtaking picture I've ever seen.
P5 couple different variations here. I went straight up and when you get wrist deep in tree sap then traverse out right to some jugs you jump up on.
P6 Jug city but pretty vertical so I only ran it out 15 - 20 ft between pieces. Crazy bad rope drag.

Decent - so we finished as the sun was setting and then ended up going down the right of the ridge into the wrong valley. Probably finished the climb around 8pm then bushwacked till 3am. Down the right side of the ridge to some river? up the wrong ridge to a cliff? then across to true gully that leads back to the base of the climb. Then promptly lost the trail again and bushwacked back down to the boulder field and finally found the trail back to the road. Was almost sure we were going to sleep out there.

All worth it.

Would have gone free first try but I put my back on the wrong side on the top section and took a little lead fall. Also I think that picture is of Uncle Fanny not Church Bowl's Chimney.