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uzibear's Logbook (1 ascent)
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Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: Voodoo Dome
White Punks on Dope
popular
Average Rating : 0.00/5
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| Safety Rating | R |
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Second ascent by:
climbing years ago
climbed about five years ago; i found it rater sustained, challenging, and pretty nerve-wracking up high on the slabs; i'd definitley put it in the 5.9 range; commitment in yosemite is 5.9, and i found this climb monumentaly harder than that, but to each his own; bring a TON of small cams for the long corner, and i highly reccommend belaying in the little cave on top of the first roof (would make a short second pitch, but it's just so beautiful to hang in that cave and look out)
the approach is long; start early
for anything in the needles i'd say you want to be a very solid climber; it's the most intimidating place i've climbed; there can be wind, and you really feel like you're way out there at times (less on voodoo than on the other needles)
it really is an awesome route; not as pure perhaps as other needles classics, but more varied; on the "chimney" pitch we just climbed the slab on the outside of the chimney, but it's unprotected
perhaps others feel differently, but i found this a pretty challenging, sustained, and at times, runout climb, definitely the slab pitches at the end, or if you don't bring enough gear for the long corner (which we did in two pitches with a party of three: hanging belay up in the corner, i highly reccommend you AVOID this if possible)
as far as a party of three is concerned: we did first pitch to a bit below the overhang, which was a modest stance, then to the cave which was lovely for three, then past the chimney to the base of the corner, which was fine standing for three, then hanging in the corner (don't do it, go to the top, also, you might want big gear for the last section of the corner), top of the corner, which is ok for three, then another ledge, then the top
well, the needles is basically as good as anywhere in the world, and to me, it's probably the most amazing and majestic place i've ever been; i'll never forget coming round the corner into the area between the sorcerer and the witch, mind blowing, and for me, very intimidating
get at it!
the approach is long; start early
for anything in the needles i'd say you want to be a very solid climber; it's the most intimidating place i've climbed; there can be wind, and you really feel like you're way out there at times (less on voodoo than on the other needles)
it really is an awesome route; not as pure perhaps as other needles classics, but more varied; on the "chimney" pitch we just climbed the slab on the outside of the chimney, but it's unprotected
perhaps others feel differently, but i found this a pretty challenging, sustained, and at times, runout climb, definitely the slab pitches at the end, or if you don't bring enough gear for the long corner (which we did in two pitches with a party of three: hanging belay up in the corner, i highly reccommend you AVOID this if possible)
as far as a party of three is concerned: we did first pitch to a bit below the overhang, which was a modest stance, then to the cave which was lovely for three, then past the chimney to the base of the corner, which was fine standing for three, then hanging in the corner (don't do it, go to the top, also, you might want big gear for the last section of the corner), top of the corner, which is ok for three, then another ledge, then the top
well, the needles is basically as good as anywhere in the world, and to me, it's probably the most amazing and majestic place i've ever been; i'll never forget coming round the corner into the area between the sorcerer and the witch, mind blowing, and for me, very intimidating
get at it!
Added: 2007-07-26
