williamkkelley's Logbook (31 ascents)

First half of the climb is very easy class 5 until 3rd bolt. Double wrap ring anchor. It had just rained and the climb was wet but juggy enough to not really matter.

Funny climb with a hard mantle to start up a short ramp into a overhang with a big face move and easy slab to the finish

Set up TR from bolt anchors. There is a slightly harder variation by trying to stay to the left on your way up

I was taking my SPI exam with Bob Gaines and he suggested this climb. While belaying for the other person taking the exam Bob mentioned that he had the first ascent on the climb back in 98 and I got to watch him climb it!
Fun climb but a little run out to the first bolt, more of a bolted trad climb than a sport climb.

Did a Aid Solo up this route and kept a list of all the gear I placed. Put together a couple of moves in the middle at around 5.6 and finished free the last 20 feet at 5.3. After top out there is a 15 foot chimney around 5.3 that I climbed unprotected to get over to the walk down or rap anchors. The rap is more than 30m from the anchors to the right of right ski track.
Gear used:
Camalot: 4, 3, 3, 2, 2, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, .75
Metolius Power Cam 8, 7
Metolius Master Cam 3
BD Grapling Hook (mostly just for fun)
Several pieces were used multiple times. The #4 Camalot was really helpful for protecting the easy moves up top, otherwise you might need to run it out to the finish.

Easy route with the crux and the beginning in a mini corner and at the top out where it gets slabby. The climb traverses a lot for such a short climb so bring some runners.
Gear used:
Camalot 3, 2, 2, 1, 0.75, 0.5
Metolius Master Cam 3, 1
BD #8 Nut
Metolius #10 Astro Nut
Anchor:
Camalot # 4, 1, .4

Not sure if I agree with the 5.4 rating people give the first pitch. It stars with a lay back dihedral that isn't 5.4 but it is just the first 10 feet. The crux is the diagonal hand crack at the last 10 feet of the climb.

You can rap all the way down from the top anchors with a 60 meter rope but good luck pulling the rope with all the drag. I recommend rapping down to the ledge where you did the first belay and then pulling the rope and rapping a second time.

Unprotected Mantle start, safer to get the first bolt by doing the normal start then trying the direct start protected.

starts with hand crack and tight chimney. moves into off-width and fist crack and hand crack. You can litterally practice any hand jam imaginable in it as well as chimney technique at the bottom

Initially I started this route below some two obvious bolts anchors with no wrap rings (I decided to be a good guy and I left a quick link on each). I followed a right facing dihedral up to a large ledge where I found a second set of anchors that you could not see from the ground. I went back down and ascended the slab up to those anchors (no placements and about 30 feet of easy slab). Then I went up the turret itself which is a flaring finger crack with some crimps around it to the top. Small tree with several pieces of webbing and rap rings to rappel down.