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sandman
Jul 8, 2005, 2:46 AM
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and then what happened?.....
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rockprodigy
Jul 14, 2005, 4:58 AM
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Enquiring minds wanna know!
BS, I recently read your rightup in the 85 AAJ on the "Smoot-Ellison" it looks like a rad route!
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mikemachineco
Jul 14, 2005, 5:38 AM
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rockprodigy, how about the story of freeing Spaceshot? Well done, by the way. Your Lowe Route story was great so I'm sure people would love to hear the Spaceshot story.
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bsmoot
Jul 14, 2005, 5:50 AM
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In reply to: BS, I recently read your rightup in the 85 AAJ on the "Smoot-Ellison" it looks like a rad route!
Yeah, it's a great climb...with the exception of Moonlight, it's the only wall in Zion I've done twice. The route rarely gets done.
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rockprodigy
Jul 15, 2005, 12:25 AM
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How about that 1/2" - 3/4" splitter? That sounds free-climbable to me!
I'll give you the spaceshot story eventually, but don't hold your breath...it's summer...I'm climbing!
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dangle
Jul 15, 2005, 11:19 PM
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Dingus is a good man and I trust will forgive the delay for inking part three:
When I did my first roped climb (37 years ago tomorrow) suffice to say that I had much to learn about women and the mysteries of both.
That summer however saw some ah errr.... milestones (yeah THAT was the word I was looking for, never mind that it was Switzerland and they'd be kilometerstones).
When I got home with a sly look on my face my mother wanted to know what I'd been up to. I claimed it was the climbing....
But from then on the idea of doing a long multiday route with somebody I didn't mind sharing a sleeping bag with became a recurring fantasy.
Now a mere 17 years later the realization comes to be.
Still a bit gimpy from the horse I admire Joy's gumption and pluck much like my little jenny Duchess which packs 230lbs of rope, beer, pitons, bivy stuff, nuts, beer, bolts, cameras, beer and so forth with Joy leading her through most of the 2.5 mile approach. Joy also packs nearly twice the loads I do the final quarter mile.
It takes her a matter of minutes to largely master the intricasies of jugging pendulums on the first pitch and actually truly enjoys the exposure as we climb higher. She manages to figure out everything she needs to right down to safely relieving herself.
What a partner!
There we are on a cozy ledge hundreds of feet up a big virgin wall. The alpenglow is illuminating a hanging forest below and east of us. The food is good. The weather is good. The bugs aren't bad. The beer is even cold. The weed is tasty.
Absolute heaven. Paradise.
Just what I dreamed about?
Well not exactly. Both of us are crusty and smelly from two days without washing, but worse we're both beat, especially the guy that was doing all the leading AND hauling.
Too tired to do justice to my first true intimate wall bivy we go through the motions but Joy mercifully suggests she give me a rain check.
Wish I'd got it in writing...
I have to give her credit. She got nearly halfway up the wall before admitting that she might have bit off more than she could chew. It was OK by me. I had added some convenience/belay bolts and cleaned out the cracks and removed loose rocks. I wanted to take the time to create a high quality climb so coming back to enjoy the benefits of my efforts was appealing.
We were both a bit short on time with guiding obligations, me in Colorado and her all the way in Alaska.
We went and got Duchess in my "new" little trailer.
Come July we had temperatures of 117 (was 115 yesterday) and when Joy got back from Alaska there was a new man in her life.
Like I said, wish I'd gotten it in writing.
End part III
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skinner
Sep 2, 2005, 11:18 PM
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My theory on why the Aid Climbing Forum seems to have lapsed into a comatose state, used to be that maybe all the aid climbers were umm.. busy climbing?
But after re-reading this, "Zion Climbing History" thread, into the wee hours of the morning, I came to the conclusion that no matter what effort has been made since, to start an interesting thread.. sadly everything just pales by comparison.
I actually do have a legitimate question(s) here.
I was wondering when the season starts/ends in Zion?
Other the standard classic routes that come to mind, I was wondering if anyone could toss in a few names (possibly a short description) of some good but not-so-well-known/seldom-climbed, aid/mixed routes?
Would be greatly appreciated
PS: if anyone has another story to tag onto this thread I'm sure many of the Zion History junkies are experiencing withdrawals by now and could use a fix :wink:
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dangle
Sep 3, 2005, 12:10 AM
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Still too hot for anything but shaded routes.
I've been meaning to finish up the T-bird story. 19 years ago EXACTLY the late great Earl Redfern and I were preparing our final bivy on the FA. The next day we made the summit and prepared for the descent that nearly caused the demise of the SECOND ascent party.
To my knowledge there has been no third....
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skinner
Sep 3, 2005, 4:58 AM
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I live in Canada and am already thinking about sharpening up the ice tools soon, so I honestly have no idea when the season starts<--->ends in your area. Could you be a lil more specific?
Too bad that, by the time the temp. is reasonable enough for climbing, the days start getting so short.
OK.. now that you've "dangled" the T-bird story out there for all the Zion buffs..
Please do tell?
The route carries even more intrigue since it has only seen two ascents. Is it that bad?
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climbhigher
Sep 3, 2005, 11:27 AM
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Hey, Skinner. I have only climbed few of the very well known and sounds like crowded climbs in Zion. So, My hands on experience is limited.
With that said, It seems like every line you see from the road has been climbed even if the line does not have a name. And these climbed lines are pretty long. Obviously, Ron Olevesky would know alot more about this.
I never have had a problem finding adventure in Zion. Even Crossing the Virgin River in the spring with a full haul bag is a full on adventure. Could be the crux of any route on that side of the river.
Oh yeah, I tried to solo this route left of Swimp Gimp or be Dust and had this supposedly 5.8 pitch fall off after one hand jam. When I say fall off, I mean almost the whole pitch fell off. That was fun. Obviously, the First Accent went up a thin seam and then left . He (the F.A.ist) saw this other way to go and it looked like it would go at 5.8, so he put it on the topo and just marked it 5.8 without mentioning the way he went. That was exciting. And then another pitch follows a very thin knife blade seam. But, it's a little contrived considering you could hook on the less then vertical face on the left all the way to who knows where?
Who knows maybe i was off route and i was high when i started hooking instead of using the Knife blade seam. I was just kind of glad it started raining, so I had a excuss to bail and never come back to that route. Some buddy bootied a nut, and two baby angles equalized with a 5mm cordalette and a nice Locking biner all of which i was happy to give up. Full on adventure for sure. Did I mention that Zion Rock will almost melt when you put it in water? Zion is the REAL DEAL!
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skinner
Sep 3, 2005, 3:25 PM
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In reply to: Did I mention that Zion Rock will almost melt when you put it in water? Zion is the REAL DEAL!
I grew up learning how to climb on our local little set of sandstone bluffs, and am familiar with how soft and.. looking for the word here, "friable" ?
Ok.. how sh*tty it can be. I remember many instances of falling through the air still clutching a detached handhold. The first route I ever put up was on sandstone and no longer exists since and entire section (including a crazy six foot overhang that was only 6" thick) collapsed and now resides on the valley floor.
(I am actually heading out there today.. after a few more coffees)
But.. this place is made up of the really light colored sandstone which in some area's resembled hard-packed mud, more then stone. I am sure that the quality varies in Zion much the same, but I had always thought that the really dark/varnished stuff.. is actually fairly descent.. for sandstone?
Still hoping that someone will give me an idea of the climbing season there, i.e.: months?
And.. I can't be the ONLY one that is waiting for the "T-bird story" ??
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dangle
Sep 3, 2005, 4:05 PM
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ch,
what source were you using on your topo? This makes a critical difference. Some of the topos in the visitor center have been jonesed by crusaders and/or wannabes. Let's just say that what appears there hasn't ALWAYS been confirmed by actual ascent in the manner proscribed. It certainly wasn't one of my routes that you were on.
Your observation about the crossing of the river to be the crux sounds vaguely familiar.
skinner,
the season for WALL climbing in Zion is September thru June depending on variables too numerous to list. It is also possible to be comfortable on certain routes at other times. Summer highs can reach 50C and winter lows can hit -10C. If your route requires river crossing or is in a nesting area this can make spring ascents problematic. Besides rock made worse by precipitation people have also fallen victim to lightning, floods, invenomation. dehydration, poor routefinding, poor judgement, heat stroke, hypothermia, rockfall, unstable routes, and being too close to idiots.
Have a nice day. :lol:
Perhaps after a meal more substantial than the croissant 3+ hours ago I will pen the next installment of the T-bird if I get a request without a wiseass "dangle" crack since, after all, it takes a lot of effort to type with only one finger.
"Don't be foolish. You're taking the fall."
Sam Spade, The Maltese Falcon
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skinner
Sep 3, 2005, 4:58 PM
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In reply to: skinner, the season for WALL climbing in Zion is September thru June depending on variables too numerous to list. It is also possible to be comfortable on certain routes at other times. Summer highs can reach 50C and winter lows can hit -10C. If your route requires river crossing or is in a nesting area this can make spring ascents problematic. Besides rock made worse by precipitation people have also fallen victim to lightning, floods, invenomation. dehydration, poor routefinding, poor judgement, heat stroke, hypothermia, rockfall, unstable routes, and being too close to idiots. Have a nice day. :lol:
Thanks for the info dangle, greatly appreciated!
Looking through your list...
ummm.. "invenomation" doesn't sound good at all :shock:
In reply to: Perhaps after a meal more substantial than the croissant 3+ hours ago I will pen the next installment of the T-bird if I get a request without a wiseass "dangle" crack since, after all, it takes a lot of effort to type with only one finger.
C'mon you guys.. T-Bird Story???
See ya later [GONE]
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dangle
Sep 3, 2005, 5:22 PM
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These Canadians are so gracious, eh?
"C'mon you guys.. T-Bird story??"
(Time for a Robert DeNiro quote. Hint; think taxi driver..)
"Don't be foolish. You're taking the fall."
Sam Spade, The Maltese Falcon
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dangle
Sep 3, 2005, 10:36 PM
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Gabe,
give me a break. Donna hasn't seen me for a whole day, and the kids want help with their homework, and the yard needs work, and blah blah....
The route's been around for a full 19 years (as of 6 hours ago) so the story can simmer. I was only going to add part IV , the latter '85 attempt with Kirk Miller.
You didn't think I was going to wrap it up THAT quick did you. Besides, shouldn't you be out clogging the roads this weekend or something?
Let's hear about Space Shot.
Can you use sling belays on a "free" ascent??
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moose_droppings
Sep 9, 2005, 6:52 AM
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Another vote for T-Bird.
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dangle
Sep 10, 2005, 8:01 PM
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Too bad I missed the going over 40,000 threshold but I was out having too good a time (so good I can't write about most of it).
I'll get around to part IV soon but have stuff to catch up on. Suffice to say that after 5 days on the wall Kirk and I came down, both with sides more sore than on any climb before.
The reason; ...... laughter.
Speaking of which, anybody catch Jay Leno's monologue?
Why is FEMA like Baywatch? (They rescue people in slow motion.)
Someone sent me a photo called "a little Bush multitasking". In it the background was people wading through New Orleans, and the foreground was Bush Sr. with a rod along with Junior holding a bass, both with big sh__eating grins.
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dangle
Sep 10, 2005, 8:13 PM
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Aw crap! How do I correct the typo in the past two posts signatures? (The l is next to the k.)
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dangle
Sep 10, 2005, 8:20 PM
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Bingo.
Thanks.
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le_bruce
Sep 18, 2005, 7:08 AM
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I'm signing the petition: please post more, Dangle. Compelling stuff and well written.
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no_one
Sep 29, 2005, 10:00 PM
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Lets hear it!
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dangle
Sep 30, 2005, 2:38 PM
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Yeah, I've been meaning to get around to it but not right now. Still pretty depressed about Greg.
I remember how Greg (a good ol' southern boy) used to argue that we would have been better off if the Confederacy had won the Civil War. I know what he meant in terms of state's rights. The federal government has grown out of control.
Seems to directly relate to climbers since the biggest rocks tend to be the essential ingredient in "scenery". Thus most of our climbs fall within the jurisdiction of the NPS. No surprise that there are numerous incidents between dirtbag climbers and LEO rangers who, short of real criminals, practise on them. Ever notice how the worst ones are the closet wannabes?
Hey no_one, how about a story (no names or touchy details) about a few guys that want to hike a remote canyon... 8^)
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skinner
Oct 1, 2005, 4:37 AM
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I'm all for a story! (dangle)
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stroker
Oct 1, 2005, 9:30 PM
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Cheers on that statement. The only time I've had cuffs on was by a Zion ranger near the old visitor center. My buddy and I got pulled over for doing 5 over. The "ranger" asked us if we had any weapons or drugs in the car. Impulsively and foolishly, I yieled a giant Wild Country friend that was resting at my feet. "Here's our gun," I regretfully said. The "officer" didn't think I was funny, and asked us to get out of the car. Instead of hiking to the base of a route, I was leaned over the top of the car, being frisked for all to see. The funny part obout this, is this was the second time this particular "ranger" felt me up. Earlier, he searched me near the Angels Landing parking lot. I had broke down, therefore he felt he might be able to bust a "hippie climber." Both times I recieved nothing more than embarrassment, and he recieved that substitute satifaction that only men of his like need.
I must say that the most aggressive of the anti-climber rangers were in Snow Canyon. There was a ranger, hopefully not there anymore, that we dubber THE SARGE. This bloke was about 6'7" and really liked to bust climbers chops. He screamed my buddy off a lead. Yes folks, he demanded my buddy to lower immediately. I found it enjoyable to park outside the south gate and sneek in. I enjoyed the idea of not pumping more money into the park through a gate fee, when I knew the dollars were being spend unwisely and wastefully. In minutes that lazy man would spot you walking off the road. He patrolled the short strip of pavement in a brand new Dodge diesel loaded truck. I could patroll that in a golf cart and save tax dollars. Anyhow, when THE SARGE would scream for us to come his way, we would take off on foot, knowing that he wouldn't chase because he didn't want to get his cowboy boots dirty. Instead, he would park his rig and bask in the sweetness of tax dollars blowing cold air condioning in his frown of a face. Returning to our left car usually required patience and stealth like tactics. FUN! In fact, he drilled me for information on "my purpose" in Snow Canyon, while clipping his finger nails and looking down on me. That guy sucked, yet I will miss the days when I was laying on my stomache in the desert to avoid the wrath of THE SARGE.
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