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ldsclimber
Mar 5, 2004, 9:42 PM
Post #126 of 215
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I boulder to get strong, I sport to get endurance, and I trad to get the nerve. It's all climbing in my book.
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flashpumped
Mar 16, 2004, 6:27 PM
Post #127 of 215
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I don't think "bashing boulderers" is the right expression. More like, look at your insecurity. Why need the justification of another's "style" of climbing get you in defense mode. Is it that competitive to claim the best style? I don't think we boulderers get the credit we deserve at times and I also think we are way to "sport driven", i.e. gotta win the comp, gotta do grade n, gotta win, gotta score...sound familiar.
Plain and simple, these "older" styles as I heard someone mention...trad, aid, etc., may not fully comprehend why we boulder...and in turn, most of us see this as a chance to retort "you can't do our sh** cause its so much harder!". That is crap. These styles can be so different in contrast in attitude, desire, and risk...and yet have "climbing" at the end.
I say just climb the way you do because that is the way you want to climb. I boulder because I like the goal to trying to do the hardest moves on rock...I attempt sport because I want endurance and yea I have to admit, firing the crux of a classic route is equally enjoyable sending a project. I don't trad or aid or ice climb because I am afraid of it...because I see it is too hard, too much risk, or I'm too much of a pussy to try.
More fuel for the fire, but damn I want to stop hearing about "purity" and "you don't like it cause you suck at it".
Peace.
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climb_high
Mar 23, 2004, 4:33 PM
Post #128 of 215
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Registered: Mar 23, 2004
Posts: 3
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bouldering is even more lame than sport climbing
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mreardon
Mar 23, 2004, 5:48 PM
Post #129 of 215
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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Bouldering is cool. It's the gym-driven morons that leave chalkball prints all over the rock, cig butts and tape on the ground, fat pipe marks bigger than the three holds that make the problem, and make the mistake of talking smack without the ability to back it up that make the latest scourge of bouldering lame at best. And don't get me started on the inability to actually spot someone.
Oh wait, no one here ever does that :roll: everyone's f--ing perfect.
---------------
This post has been brought to you by a pissed off boulderer who just came back from a session where gymrats ruined the crag once again, but at least one of them was dickslapped senseless on the forehead.
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micahmcguire
Mar 23, 2004, 6:07 PM
Post #130 of 215
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bouldering is a nice workout, and it helps develop technique. That said, it can't hold a candle to real climbing. "Real" climbing includes the risk of falling from some height. "Real" climbing is overcoming the challenges and dangers of being up higher than your body can withstand a fall from. While bouldering, there is only a small fraction of the fear that a good, tall trad climb throws at you, and a small fraction of the risk. I guess that raises the question-what is "real" climbing? Is it height? Is it risk? Is is equipment? Is it remoteness?
Technically, climbing is trying to weasel your way to the top of something. The aforementioned factors just make it cooler. Climbing is like sex; there are those who don't need much, who keep it low and don't take many "risks," but are satisfied to be porking a hole-and there are those who identify their successes by more than the fact that they "did it," but by how they did it, how long, how hard, how exciting it was, etc. Anyhow, I need to go watch a porn or something, I'll be back.
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mcumbrae
Mar 23, 2004, 6:41 PM
Post #131 of 215
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Registered: Jan 28, 2004
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Itīs funny in a bitter way to see that what makes us human is the need to prove everybody else wrong. rrrADAM got it right, from my point of view it is all climbing. Although i consider the purpose of climbing to be GOING UP, the higher the better, i donīt pass the opportunity to work on hard moves a meter off the ground, specially when it is either that or lose a climbing day due to the absence of a partner to belay for me. I also agree with another poster who says that people who only boulder are missing a great deal of what climbing is, but iīd rather leave them to figure it out for themselves than to be a smart ass. We all pursue different goals in climbing, hence the different styles.
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junnos
Mar 23, 2004, 6:44 PM
Post #132 of 215
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Registered: Sep 18, 2003
Posts: 217
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It's all in the title. Think about it. They call themseves "Boulderers", NOT "Climbers".
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kalcario
Mar 23, 2004, 6:52 PM
Post #133 of 215
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*there is only a small fraction of the fear that a good, tall trad climb throws at you, and a small fraction of the risk.*
If you are afraid of crack climbing with all the high tech gear that is available today, you are either incompetent or too broke to shell out the $1000 for a rack of SLCDs.
Which do you think is stronger, a #3 camalot in granite, or a bolt in the choss which passes for rock at most sport crags in the US?
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vertical_reality
Mar 23, 2004, 7:33 PM
Post #134 of 215
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Registered: Jun 19, 2002
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Because it's so easy.
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boulder_boy
Mar 24, 2004, 4:22 AM
Post #135 of 215
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In reply to: Because it's so easy.
I wouldnt be saying that.....if you pick a pansy bouldering problem then it may be easy but don't bash on people who boulder by saying its simple. It takes technique, strength, thought, and balance to boulder.....it's just a matter of what you like to do. I like to boulder and do sport climbing because im 16 and dont have the money to shell out a 1000 bucks to buy a trad rack....be thoughtful before you call something easy
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dood
Mar 24, 2004, 5:27 AM
Post #136 of 215
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Registered: Jan 3, 2004
Posts: 93
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Bouldering is great! There is something about babes walking around with mattresses strapped to their backs...
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bouldersdothebodygood
Mar 24, 2004, 5:39 AM
Post #137 of 215
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Posts: 133
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you need technical expertice as in technical climbing skills ( footwork and very technical moves) but not technical ability with gear. i also lead sport climbs so i am not just a pure boulderer but that is mostly what i do i will go bouldering about 2 out of three weekend and sport climbing the other 1. i would like to get into trad the gear is just so costly anyway i dunno why they bash but it is immature i think. bouldering is as much rock climbing as any other kind. plus i have a friend who would rather be on lead 7 feet from his last protection or more than be 15 feet up on a boulder. it is all one sport why must we fight bad karma
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kalcario
Mar 24, 2004, 5:49 AM
Post #138 of 215
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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*It takes technique, strength, thought, and balance to boulder.....it's just a matter of what you like to do. I like to boulder and do sport climbing because im 16 and dont have the money to shell out a 1000 bucks to buy a trad rack....be thoughtful*
Yeah but the problem is, the more time you spend bouldering, the harder it is to break away from it and function at the crags when your pads and spotters are not six feet away. Bouldering might improve your physical ability to climb but, and I see this all the time when boulderers actually dare to show up at the crags, it messes you up mentally.
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boulder_boy
Mar 24, 2004, 6:26 AM
Post #139 of 215
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Registered: Mar 10, 2004
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actually not really I do lots of sport routes all the time. I usually do 2-3 routes a day but if im not feelin it ill go do some bouldering and have fun hangin out with my buds...maybe for some its hard to pull away, but not really a problem here
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curt
Mar 24, 2004, 6:38 AM
Post #140 of 215
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In reply to: *there is only a small fraction of the fear that a good, tall trad climb throws at you, and a small fraction of the risk.* If you are afraid of crack climbing with all the high tech gear that is available today, you are either incompetent or too broke to shell out the $1000 for a rack of SLCDs. Which do you think is stronger, a #3 camalot in granite, or a bolt in the choss which passes for rock at most sport crags in the US?
Why Joe,
I do believe you have unconsciously let some of your trad roots show through. Hahahaha.
Curt
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micahmcguire
Mar 24, 2004, 5:43 PM
Post #141 of 215
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Registered: Apr 18, 2002
Posts: 889
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kalcario, I climb in the high Chugach. Nothing is bomber. If you knew anything about that, you'd have just shut up and agreed. However, there is no way you can sell me on the idea that falling on a good cam in a good crack is safer than falling from 5 feet off the ground onto a mattress. That is silly.
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vertical_reality
Mar 24, 2004, 6:05 PM
Post #142 of 215
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Registered: Jun 19, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: Because it's so easy. I wouldnt be saying that.....if you pick a pansy bouldering problem then it may be easy but don't bash on people who boulder by saying its simple. It takes technique, strength, thought, and balance to boulder.....it's just a matter of what you like to do. I like to boulder and do sport climbing because im 16 and dont have the money to shell out a 1000 bucks to buy a trad rack....be thoughtful before you call something easy
I didn't say anything about bouldering being easy.
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oafy
Mar 24, 2004, 7:22 PM
Post #143 of 215
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Registered: Mar 9, 2004
Posts: 102
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No one bashes bouldering unless they ask for it. F$%K everyone who trashes climbing, its your own thing, you shouldn't care what others think anyways. If your a true climber, you have respect for everyone who participates in it, and every aspect of it, from big wall, to aiding to climbing a 25,000ft mountain in the middle of Nepal or bouldering on a boulder that is 10 ft tall. Were all connected, so respect your own mountain before trying to name another.................
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dredsovrn
Mar 24, 2004, 7:31 PM
Post #144 of 215
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Registered: May 24, 2003
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You are right. It is really not fair for us to bash people who aren't smart enough to defend themselves properly. While I boulder sometimes, I do it to get in touch with the commoners of the climbing community. You know, those not gifted with above average intelligence like us trad climbers. :lol:
Really why does anyone care?
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kalcario
Mar 24, 2004, 7:35 PM
Post #145 of 215
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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*kalcario, I climb in the high Chugach. Nothing is bomber. If you knew anything about that, you'd have just shut up and agreed.*
This being RC.com, not Alpinism.com, I assumed we were discussing trad climbing as it is commonly referred to around here. Not sure what climbing in the high Chugach involves, but I doubt shorts and t-shirts are.
*However, there is no way you can sell me on the idea that falling on a good cam in a good crack is safer than falling from 5 feet off the ground onto a mattress. That is silly.*
What did I say that contradicts this?
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pdwaugy
Mar 24, 2004, 8:37 PM
Post #146 of 215
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Registered: Jul 4, 2003
Posts: 38
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We all climb. It really doesn't matter why we climb or what we climb (ie. boulder, sport, trad, aid), but the fact is we all climb. Now yes some may look down on a type of climbing, but who really cares what some random person thinks about a type of climbing. It all comes down to that we climb because we love the sport.
Waugy
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jgill
Mar 25, 2004, 4:35 AM
Post #147 of 215
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Registered: May 18, 2002
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Normally I wouldn't enter such a ridiculous fray, but you should know that bashing others who climb not as you do has considerable historical precedents. Shortly after rock climbing became a separate sport in the late Victorian era notable climbers began leveling accusations and sharpening their sarcastic wits. Eckenstein, the first documented boulderer, enjoyed picking apart the accomplishments of others as much as he prided himself on his own deeds. Geoffrey Winthrop Young wrote disparagingly about attempting moves on boulders harder than those being done on lead at the time, and described Eckenstein perjoratively as "having the build and beard of our first ancestors". Eckenstein's close friend, Aleister Crowley (the beast 666) was scathing in his condemnation of 'the Gymnast', Owen Glynne Jones, for top-roping some of his problems before leading (essentially soloing) them. J. M. Archer-Thomson was critical of Jones as well, and avoided that practice. Almost everyone but Eckenstein despised Crowley. And that was just the beginning . . . 8)
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mrme
Mar 25, 2004, 4:38 AM
Post #148 of 215
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Registered: Oct 5, 2003
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why do you care so much
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curt
Mar 25, 2004, 4:52 AM
Post #149 of 215
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In reply to: Normally I wouldn't enter such a ridiculous fray, but you should know that bashing others who climb not as you do has considerable historical precedents. Shortly after rock climbing became a separate sport in the late Victorian era notable climbers began leveling accusations and sharpening their sarcastic wits. Eckenstein, the first documented boulderer, enjoyed picking apart the accomplishments of others as much as he prided himself on his own deeds. Geoffrey Winthrop Young wrote disparagingly about attempting moves on boulders harder than those being done on lead at the time, and described Eckenstein perjoratively as "having the build and beard of our first ancestors". Eckenstein's close friend, Aleister Crowley ( the beast 666) was scathing in his condemnation of ' the Gymnast', Owen Glynne Jones, for top-roping some of his problems before leading (essentially soloing) them. J. M. Archer-Thomson was critical of Jones as well, and avoided that practice. Almost everyone but Eckenstein despised Crowley. And that was just the beginning . . . 8)
John,
Thanks for posting that. It is actually somewhat comforting to know that all the recent stylistic bickering is nothing new.
Curt
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kalcario
Mar 25, 2004, 6:06 AM
Post #150 of 215
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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* Aleister Crowley (the beast 666) was scathing in his condemnation of 'the Gymnast'*
So...he tried to climb K2, was the spiritual founder of Black Sabbath (plus Jimmy Page bought his house)...and bashed boulderers? How ahead of your time can you get?
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