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matystyle
Jun 18, 2014, 9:38 AM
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Registered: Jun 2, 2010
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What I wanted to ask: I did a bit of campus boarding lately, mostly to test myself, more or less comparing myself with others’ campus board “achievments”.
I’m about to go to the Frankenjura, and I am curious what routes to approach and roughly what to expect from myself, grade wise.
This is my “look what I can do!:D” list on various campus boards:
1 – 5 – 9 on 3 cm thick rungs, set 20 cm apart;
1 – 5 – 8 on 3 cm thick rungs, set 20 cm apart on two fingers;
1 – 4 – 7 on 3 cm think rungs, set 20cm apart on one finger;
1 – 4 on 2,5 cm flat rungs, set 22cm apart
All boars are 15 degrees overhanging, flat edges (no incut).
How realistic would it be to try some 9a-s on the specific pockety-frankenjura style?
Obviously I am very motivated on some routes, however, a little feedback from this forum surely won’t hurt! :)
I also do not think it is relevant what grades I have climbed on rock until now, since all the routes in my region are long, pumpy, technical ones, not short, nasty and powerful, such as those on frankenjura (on which I could perform much better, atleast in the gym I do).
Cheers!
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skelldify
Jun 18, 2014, 2:13 PM
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I'd say you can prolly do some 9b/9b+. Heck, you might even get sponsored while you're there!
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sungam
Jun 18, 2014, 7:02 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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No not believing, buddy.
If you're going to test your vessel when it comes to campusboard-like power, what better place then the stomping ground of the man who invented it?
F*** the haters, try Action Directe and Nightmare and have a blast.
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flesh
Jun 19, 2014, 2:34 AM
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Registered: Mar 11, 2011
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Strange post.
I don't think your ready for 9a. I'm pretty sure you'll figure out where your at the first couple days. It's likely that our imput won't help you make that decision.
The distance your covering isn't much. The standard is rungs eight inches ish apart. Yours are five inches ish apart. The mono power is pretty good though.
Be careful.
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theguy
Jun 19, 2014, 3:50 AM
Post #5 of 8
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Registered: Aug 14, 2004
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matystyle wrote: list on various campus boards: 1 – 5 – 9 on 3 cm thick rungs, set 20 cm apart; 1 – 5 – 8 on 3 cm thick rungs, set 20 cm apart on two fingers; 1 – 4 – 7 on 3 cm think rungs, set 20cm apart on one finger; 1 – 4 on 2,5 cm flat rungs, set 22cm apart
flesh wrote: The standard is rungs eight inches ish apart. Yours are five inches ish apart.
According to Google 20cm is 7.87 inches, which I'd call closer to eight ish than five ish except for extremely large values of eight ish and five ish...
(This post was edited by theguy on Jun 19, 2014, 5:25 AM)
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lena_chita
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Jun 19, 2014, 4:10 PM
Post #6 of 8
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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matystyle wrote: What I wanted to ask: I did a bit of campus boarding lately, mostly to test myself, more or less comparing myself with others’ campus board “achievments”. I’m about to go to the Frankenjura, and I am curious what routes to approach and roughly what to expect from myself, grade wise. This is my “look what I can do!:D” list on various campus boards: 1 – 5 – 9 on 3 cm thick rungs, set 20 cm apart; 1 – 5 – 8 on 3 cm thick rungs, set 20 cm apart on two fingers; 1 – 4 – 7 on 3 cm think rungs, set 20cm apart on one finger; 1 – 4 on 2,5 cm flat rungs, set 22cm apart All boars are 15 degrees overhanging, flat edges (no incut). How realistic would it be to try some 9a-s on the specific pockety-frankenjura style? Obviously I am very motivated on some routes, however, a little feedback from this forum surely won’t hurt! :) I also do not think it is relevant what grades I have climbed on rock until now, since all the routes in my region are long, pumpy, technical ones, not short, nasty and powerful, such as those on frankenjura (on which I could perform much better, atleast in the gym I do). Cheers!
1-5-9 with Moon board distance of rung spacing is pretty much the biggest distance that i have ever heard of anyone campusing, so your ability sounds pretty impressive.
IMO if you are doing that well on the big campus rungs, especially with 2-finger or mono-fingers, you should be spending more time on small and medium ones.
As to what you can climb... you'll find out soon enough, I guess. Dream big and try the hard routes, what more can anyone say here? You've never been to the area, so you will probably start with easier routes, get used to the style of climbing, and work up from there.
I do think that the grade of stuff you have climbed until now does matter, even if it is a different style. Because even though people tend to describe and focus on the crux moves of the hard routes, there is more to climbing them then just the crux. If you had climbed 8b/8c on other types of routes, and you believe that the short overhanging climbs are your strong point and you would do great at them, you are probably right and you should try those 9a's. But if you had only ever climbed 7c in the techy long vertical climbs that you have near you, and you think that you will do great on an overhanging 9a, just because it is in a different style... well, maybe... but probably not.
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sungam
Jun 19, 2014, 9:54 PM
Post #7 of 8
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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lena_chita wrote: 1-5-9 with Moon board distance of rung spacing is pretty much the biggest distance that i have ever heard of anyone campusing
http://youtu.be/igYhX5xyprw?t=6m16s
If I could do 1-5-9 I would try Action Directe. I don't think I could do it, but I think I could have a lot of fun pulling on the holds on an awesome, inspiring, and historic route.
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flesh
Jun 20, 2014, 11:26 PM
Post #8 of 8
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Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 419
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weird, i guess i used a bad online calc.
If this guy is really that good, seems like a troll.
I can do 1 5 8.5, I've come close to 1 5 9.
I wouldn't come here to ask advice about how his level of campusing translates to outdoor route climbing, if I was him.
His mono power is crazy compared to mine. I don't actually know what mine is because i'd never campus on monos, guys got steel tendons, lucky sob.
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