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anonymousCoward
Aug 1, 2013, 4:02 AM
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Has the La Sportiva Mythos design changed. My new Mythos are just plain crap. I have used Mythos for many years, and I just bought my fifth pair which sucks compared to all my previous pairs.
A friend is having the same experience. He just bought a new pair also and likens them to those wooden souvenir shows that you can buy in Holland.
In particular the rubber has no stick and in general the show just doesn't have that precise feel like previous versions did.
Also, I wonder if I can get some compensation from La Sportiva for these. I have used them for about a month and can't really take them back to the store.
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csproul
Aug 1, 2013, 11:41 AM
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anonymousCoward wrote: Has the La Sportiva Mythos design changed. My new Mythos are just plain crap. I have used Mythos for many years, and I just bought my fifth pair which sucks compared to all my previous pairs. A friend is having the same experience. He just bought a new pair also and likens them to those wooden souvenir shows that you can buy in Holland. In particular the rubber has no stick and in general the show just doesn't have that precise feel like previous versions did. Also, I wonder if I can get some compensation from La Sportiva for these. I have used them for about a month and can't really take them back to the store.
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jowybyo
Aug 1, 2013, 5:50 PM
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When was the last time you bought a pair? I bought a pair about 2.5-3 years ago. I would describe them as not precise and slippery. The rubber is not sticky at all. The cheap Evolve that my local gym offers are tackier than my Mythos.
They are comfy though.
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bearbreeder
Aug 1, 2013, 10:51 PM
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http://www.youtube.com/...vRHuTKD8&t=1m10s
huber leading a quite run out 5.13- technical edging big wall face pitch on baffin island with a dyno finish ... in his purple mythos
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Aug 1, 2013, 11:18 PM)
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potreroed
Aug 2, 2013, 3:25 AM
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It's the climber, not the shoe. In fact, the best climber I know regularly climbs 13's barefoot.
Still, I'm sorry to hear about the Mythos--I always liked those.
I remember being devastated when Boreal changed the Ace. I loved that shoe and went through 3 pairs with 5 resoles on each. I bought a pair of the new Aces and hated them so much that one day I just left them at the crag.
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TradEddie
Aug 2, 2013, 5:20 AM
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bearbreeder wrote: huber leading a quite run out 5.13- technical edging big wall face pitch on baffin island with a dyno finish ... in his purple mythos
EXACTLY! You can't get purple mythos anymore. The "terra" ones are different, perhaps not officially, but in reality. I don't know if it's the rubber, but the new ones don't last nearly as long, take much longer to break in, and don't smear as well.
TE
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robdotcalm
Aug 2, 2013, 3:02 PM
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There does seem to have been a decrease in quality control. For many years I've bought size 40.5. Recently I bought a pair in that size after a little stretching from wear the L one was the size of 41.5 and the R one a 42. I returned them to the store, which sent them back to Sportiva who then sent a new pair of 40.5. The new sportivas do seem to have sewing not as good as the purple version.
I wondered if they were still being manufactured in Italy. Seems they are. Sportiva rubber has never been very sticky. I go to C4 at resole time
r.c
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redlude97
Aug 2, 2013, 3:04 PM
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There was definitely a rubber change to vibram xs edge and a lot of people aren't fans, friction being one of the biggest gripes. Maybe try resoling in C4 or XS Grip2 if you can find it.
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csproul
Aug 2, 2013, 5:08 PM
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bearbreeder wrote: http://www.youtube.com/...vRHuTKD8&t=1m10s huber leading a quite run out 5.13- technical edging big wall face pitch on baffin island with a dyno finish ... in his purple mythos [image]http://i42.tinypic.com/2hov150.jpg[/image]
Do you know that Huber isn't wearing those because of attributes other than precision? He is on a bigwall and Mythos are pretty comfy to wear all day. Would he be able to climb harder in another shoe? Maybe 13- is easy for him and it doesn't matter what shoe he wears.
(This post was edited by csproul on Aug 2, 2013, 5:28 PM)
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bearbreeder
Aug 2, 2013, 5:40 PM
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Thats you
Others find the old purple "barney the dino" mythos work just fine
As a few others have indicated
Note that on the same climb, his brother thomas wore the katana lace the entire wall ... Alex also TRed the pitch before hand and had issues with it, didnt seem like a cake walk
Shoes are a personal preference ... Not an intraweb certainty
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Aug 2, 2013, 5:44 PM)
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csproul
Aug 2, 2013, 6:10 PM
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bearbreeder wrote: Thats you Others find the old purple "barney the dino" mythos work just fine As a few others have indicated Note that on the same climb, his brother thomas wore the katana lace the entire wall ... Alex also TRed the pitch before hand and had issues with it, didnt seem like a cake walk Shoes are a personal preference ... Not an intraweb certainty
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bearbreeder
Aug 2, 2013, 6:36 PM
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What works for you may not work for someone else
The fallacy is in believing that a piece of gear that doesnt work for you wont work for me ... And writting essays to justify it
One of my partners climbs in mythos, i climb harder overall, but he actually does better in his mythos on edging climbs than i do in my fancy miura VSes
Shoes CAN make a difference, but what difference it makes is up to the climber and their prefernces ... Note that sharma sent the hardest climbs in the world not too long ago on soft rounded moccassins, it worked for him
I will say that there is a slightly different technique to using soft rounded shoes on edges vs. stiff pointed ones ... Which seems to a lost art these days
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weschrist
Aug 2, 2013, 11:14 PM
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I have used La Sportiva almost exclusively for nearly 10 years.
My last 5 pairs have fallen apart within 6 months... I usually get 2 years out of my shoes. The sole around the balls of my feet delaminates, the heal delaminates, and what pass for laces always break. The right foot on my Mythos has the rubber right up to the sawtooth leather near the laces... on the left foot, the rubber is over 1/2 inch away. I can't get the left shoe tight because the sides of the shoe touch. The tightest I can get my right shoe barely covers the tongue.
Recently my gf bought a pair of ladies Miuras, the same size she had before (36.5). They were way too big, so we went to exchange them. She tried 1/2 size smaller and could not get her foot in. She tried another 36.5 and they fit perfectly. Holding the first pair up to the second pair (same size) there was about 1/4 to 1/2 inch difference in length, even when smashing them flat.
I am disappointed in the quality of La Sportiva and refused to buy them for a while. But for me, there really is NO other shoe that performs as well.
Just dropped $170 on a new pair. It was either that or lose weight and learn to climb.
[/bitch]
(This post was edited by weschrist on Aug 3, 2013, 2:19 AM)
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