Review by: smearhound, 2005-01-16
The best book for rock-climbing training, period. A major improvement on Hörst’s previous book, “Flash Training,” and more informative on the subject than the others out there. Sections on specific drills and exercises, mental training, training programs, sports training science and theory, nutrition, and even a small section on injuries are explained clearly. As for Hörst’s recommendations, the reader learns why these things work, not just how to integrate them into their training. I particularly like the way Hörst invites self-assessment and, with the guidance of the text, allows the reader to build a sound training program that addresses the reader’s weaknesses.
It should be noted that this book is probably most helpful to the sport climber, although most everything is applicable for bouldering and trad climbing. Alpine climbers will not glean as much from the text. Goddard and Neumann’s “Performance Rock Climbing” is a good supplement (also aimed at sport climbers), but go for this book first, and get stronger.