Review by: john_walker777, 2008-09-15
I am a fairly experienced climber, of a few years, who regularly climbs upper 5.10 sport routes, and 5.8+ YNP rated trad climbs. I climb with sub 10mm ropes, and decided that the Eddy was hopefully better than the Grigri for this size of rope. In a sport setting, while watching my climbing partner, fall, the Eddy failed to engage the internal locking cam until far too late. I made the mistake of thinking it was predominantly rope-stretch that caused his close-call. On a recent trip to Yosemite, my climbing partner took a 15 foot+ whipper, and again, the Eddy did not engage until far-too close to the belay point, where I was. I noticed my fingers were burned after reviewing what had happened, and that it was mostly me holding on, and employing a correct stance with the rope that slowed my partners fall. I used the device according to manufacturers instructions, but for anyone looking for a good device, try the SUM!