Routes : Europe : England : Devon and Cornwall : Dewerstone(OS) : Dewerstone, Main Buttress : Central Groove
Central Groove - 5.6
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Solid nuts and small hexes all the way, maybe a cam or two if you're rich enough to own any.
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Description:
The BEST low grade multipitch trad in the Southwest! (this is on a par with Demo Route at Sennen) Route starts right of Leviathan at the base of a large inside corner. Gain the initial block then make your way up the easy cracks in the corner. At 60 ft (ish) the cracks stop when an overhanging roof blocks your path, put a good bit of gear in (use a l o n g extender) and step out right onto the face next to you. Traverse diagonally up and rightwards on black "plate-like" holds. The exposure is brilliant, move towards a hanging block balanced right on the arete. Bring up your 2nd while perched on the block (and pray that it stays there) This is a fantastic airy stance that lets you look down through the trees to the river and base of the crag below. Pitch 2 head straight up blank, but easy wall above the stance to terrace above, follow this ramp like structure right to a final layback crack to the summit.
Submitted by: jax on 2005-11-24
Views: 669
Route ID: 72034
