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Midnight Express - 5.10d

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 9
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Claude Lavalee, 1970s
Rock (Trad)
Two Bolts to protect the tricky face climbing below. Originally done without. Sm to medium gear.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


West Face of the Needle. Great crimpy start, followed by easy corner system to a nice roof. Plug a couple pieces in to the crack and go for those great locks for your fingers. After pulling the roof, there is a anchor right there. Alternately, clip the anchor and air it out another 25 feet of unprotected 5.9 slab climbing.

Descent Options:

Rappel/lower off. 60 m rope required if going to the top of the needle. 50m will do if you rap to south side and land on top of the tower leaning against the needle. From there, downclimb into the notch on the eastern side of the tower.

Submitted by: tallnik on 2006-12-02
Last Modified: 2013-10-17
Views: 707
Route ID: 81404

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: Bulletproof2000 on 2013-04-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars WTF

just getting off the ground is nuts, stick clip if you lead!!!!

Added: 2013-05-15

  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: tallnik on 2006-11-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Got 'er done

Redpoint. Pre-clipped the first high bolt.

Added: 2006-12-03