Climb run out face to the left of Varicose past two bolts. Climbing straight up the face and not using the arete may make this climb harder. It is possible to place a #2 Camalot halfway between the first and second bolt in the Varicose crack to reduce the runout.
We top roped this after leading Varicose, and I'm really glad. Normally I would lead and flash any 5.8, same with my partner, but not on this route and generally not at P.P. All the ratings at P.P. seem sand baged. We assumed the arete and crack were off and just climbed the face and holds right on the corners. That made the start very hard. I spent as much time on the start as the rest of the climb. You really have to trust some small foot holds and the hands are thin. This was a great challenge though and a good leg/foot work out.
You got to be some kind of climber to want to lead this thing with the meager bolts! We top roped it after leading Varicose. Ladybug got up it without falling, but I was hanging all over the place on the lower part. We assumed the edge of the Varicose crack was not on route, so we stuck to the face. I've climbed 5.10's that are easier than this puppy!