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Smoke for Face - 5.11a

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Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
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Rock (Trad)
R
4
Bolts plus an assortment of small to medium cams
400
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating (Not Rated)
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

This route is about 50 ft right of "There are rings around Uranus". Head right up a ramp below this route (3rd class) to a large tree. Above the tree is 60 ft of easy fifth to a ledge. There is a pine tree about 20 ft above the ledge. The start is a boulder problem your partner can spot, above this is a hidden slot for a finger sized cam and a bit of 5.8 slab. At the Tree, go right onto the hollow flake above (alternatively go straight up the layback crusty flake at about 10+) and traverse back left to the first anchor. The route proper starts here. The first pitch has mostly closely spaced bolts with a hard section between the first and second bolt. a few cams are also handy This is also the only section we had holds break--I found this significantly harder than 11A. Above, there is good 10+ to 11A slab. this pitch is about 100 ft. The next pitch is quite runout. PG/R I thought one could get a pretty good bounce going with a fall, and I found some of the areas more like 10C than 10A. In any case, a really nice slab pitch maybe 160 ft. the last pitch didn't look as good and we rappeled.

Descent Options:

rappel or walk off.

Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2013-08-05
Views: 530
Route ID: 114235