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Smoke for Face - 5.11a

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Rock (Trad)
Bolts plus an assortment of small to medium cams
Consensus Ratings
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This route is about 50 ft right of "There are rings around Uranus". Head right up a ramp below this route (3rd class) to a large tree. Above the tree is 60 ft of easy fifth to a ledge. There is a pine tree about 20 ft above the ledge. The start is a boulder problem your partner can spot, above this is a hidden slot for a finger sized cam and a bit of 5.8 slab. At the Tree, go right onto the hollow flake above (alternatively go straight up the layback crusty flake at about 10+) and traverse back left to the first anchor. The route proper starts here. The first pitch has mostly closely spaced bolts with a hard section between the first and second bolt. a few cams are also handy This is also the only section we had holds break--I found this significantly harder than 11A. Above, there is good 10+ to 11A slab. this pitch is about 100 ft. The next pitch is quite runout. PG/R I thought one could get a pretty good bounce going with a fall, and I found some of the areas more like 10C than 10A. In any case, a really nice slab pitch maybe 160 ft. the last pitch didn't look as good and we rappeled.

Descent Options:

rappel or walk off.

Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2013-08-05
Views: 432
Route ID: 114235