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Control your pipe - 5.9

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bolts and gear to 4-4.5"
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FA Matt Schutz, Preston Schwendiman, Herb Kellog, spring '05. This route is on the South face of gray eagle in the gulley between gray and red eagle. There is a sick amount of creek trees (alders?) to wade through to get to the base (only like 5 minutes of bushwhacking), but one will be rewarded with lots of great climbing between control your pipe and a few other mixed trad/bolted lines on the same face. Start at the obvious lieback chimney. There is a chockstone I slung as my first piece that I definatly would not reccomend. That's where the 4.5 inch piece would be used, it might be bigger, I can't remember. If you added a bolt to the face on the left of the chimney I would totally welcome it as long as you're good. Continue up the chimney using natural gear trending to the ledge systems diagnoling right. The first pitch is a long 60M pitch. The second pitch heads diagnol left and tops out at a sit-sown belay ledge with one bolt. it's 5.6 so a two bolt anchor when you're sitting down is overkill. From the ledge you can scramble up an easy chimney/gulley or climb a natural route to climbers right of the belay bolt. The line is protected with gear and slinging knobs and tops out at the belay for Intrepid Voyage When you get on top, check around (after walking towards the great depression) and you will find the Rapp Route. Don't be fooled, the first station is a long rapp (with a single 60) so CHECK YOUR KNOTS!!! The station has chains check for more info

Submitted by: serenityascents on 2006-04-13
Views: 517
Route ID: 75894