Routes : North America : United States : California : Western Sierra : Squarenail : Main Wall : Mr. Wizard
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Mr. Wizard - 5.8
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock (Trad)
G
pro
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Description:
Starts on the bottom left of the main wall. The climb goes up a right facing book. The crack starts large and makes for easy liebacking. Near the top, the crack gets thinner and thinner forcing delicate 5.8 climbing. When the crack starts to thin you can look over the arete and clip a bolt for the arete route. Route is about 90' and leads to a two bolt anchor on the face on top and left of the end of the dihedral. Quality climb but stays wet for a while after a rain. The route is listed as a 5.8R because the corner in the upper 20 feet was originally too thin & dirty to accept pro. The crack has been cleaned enough over the years that it now accepts tiny wired nuts. First ascent was probably by Rich Calderwood back in the late 1960's or early 1970's.
Submitted by: fng on 2008-04-03
Views: 1846
Route ID: 74336
Most Recent Photo
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4 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor |  |
Flash ascent by:
good route
easy to find, did it in the dark
Added: 2010-11-02
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Great route
Great crack for doing laps on. The random bolt near the top makes a perfect anchor for setting a tope rope so you can do it as many times as you want in a row with one rope.
Added: 2009-03-13
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Protection Bolt??
There is a protection bolt on this climb that isn't part of the arete climb that should get the CHOP!! Tiny Wireds work fine. But I guess if unnessecary bolts get chopped at squarenail there would be a lot of work involved.
Added: 2007-12-05
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Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2006-02-03
