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Nine Lives - 5.11b

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Lower crack, Bruce Morris, Dave Sessions (1982) Upper face, Ron Skelton, Greg Magruder (6/1988)
Rock (Trad)
R
1
Nuts, small to medium. Quickdraws.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

Climb a thin crack past two bolts then move out slightly left on face holds of all shapes and sizes, several mantles and a distinct crux to the anchors which are hidden by some huge knobs. Route is about 90ft.

Descent Options:

Rappel with one 60m rope.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2011-01-16
Views: 300
Route ID: 107720

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2011-01-16 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Way sandbagged

The climbing between the first and second bolt along the crack is unprotected and much harder than .11b. To keep it .11b traverse right after the first bolt and work your way up to big knobs before climbing up and over to the second bolt. (Big runout here which could result in hitting the deck). After the second bolt the protection gets much better and climbing is much easier. There are 8 protection bolts dispite what the guide says. The crux of the upper section is just after the 7th bolt and is much harder than 5.10d, more like 5.11d but well protected.

Added: 2011-01-16