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Arches Terrace Direct - 5.11a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
Nuts, cams to 3.5, include a set of HBs or like
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


5.8 start superior. This is marked by a crack, with a medium sized oak tree growing out about 25 ft up. Above this, a layback/stem flake tends left and then back right and then left to a 3 inch ledge. Above this is runout 5.8 slab, borderline R to a tree. Above the tree, fourth class for 60 ft to a hand and fist crack. The start of the hand crack is at least 5.8, the fist crack above is easier, with one awkward section. Ends at a ledge, about 230 ft from ground. The crux follows, clip a bolt, and do 10A slab to a crack, and offset cam fits here, but a few more 5.8 moves to a green alien cam placement. Above this is the crux, thin face, and a piton. Have the HBs. follow crack as it gradually becomes easier to a one bolt belay. Above this, low angle crack to 5.8 thin hands, and a small roof/ledge, above which is more borderline R runout slab. Follow this up to another good ledge. About 270 ft from the last ledge, and about 165 from the one bolt anchor. Above are 70 ft of 5.8 hands. After that the price--100 ft of low angle 5.6 fists. Angle left where the slab ends for a finger and hand sized belay, 10 ft from the top--200 ft.

Descent Options:

Head up and around and down for the obvious rappel off a tree. Below this, I hope missed something. 170 ft down I rappelled off a 3 inch tree in a crack with three slings on it. There is now a locking biner too. Below this, I angled skiers left to a t

Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2012-02-20
Views: 418
Route ID: 110619

1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: stevecurtis on 2012-02-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars rope solo

A good adventure, and clean climbing. After the second pitch, I couldn't see a good rap down until one completes the route. The crux is sustained, and not high angle. The start of the hand crack has some very sharp rock. If you are competent at fists, these sections will be very easy.

Added: 2012-02-20