A super-fun and quality route with varied climbing that makes the most of the short wall by wandering left and right! You will use face climbing, possibly a mantel, fingerlocks/ringlocks, awesome handjams and fists.
Start on the large flake near the middle of the wall and work your way on it via a strenuous mantel or a long reach up and left. The lip on the flake is intermittent, so work out your sequence!
Then follow the finger crack above to where it meets a horizontal crack. Another finger crack continues up, slightly further right - you gain that with a semi-blind reach. Follow the new finger crack till it meets a horizontal hand crack above.
Now make a long traverse right with your hands in a sumptious hand crack (a little dirty, but good) and good feet. You will meet a short, vertical hand crack directly below the anchor, which widens near the top.
There is pretty good pendulum potential on this route if you are toproping it. The swing is clean, but could be unnerving for some. If there are two of you, get your belayer to pay out a bunch of slack if you swing out to dampen the swing. If there are more than two, tie into the middle of the rope and set up a second belay with your rope end off to the left to stop the swing.
Submitted by: ElGreco on 2012-08-10
Route ID: 112180