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Young and The Rackless - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
Rock
Draws
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 3.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

To get there, hike up towards the 2d gully on Blob that is located on the left side of the upper east face. As you are hiking up, follow the trail angeling to the right. The first set of bolts you encounter in the gully is where you begin the route. The climb is 4 pitches of 5.9, very well protected sport climbing. The climb can be done in 2 pitches with a 70m rope and 18 draws. P1 = 80', P2 = 60', P3 = 90', P4 = 70'. A fun climb to do after work. You can get great views of Boulder Canyon from high up. We did 2 raps with a 70 m rope.

Submitted by: mother_sheep on 2005-09-08
Views: 343
Route ID: 69482

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6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mikeo on 2009-05-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars cool climb

The approach is tough but climb goes quickly. Some "5.9" reach dependent moves.

Added: 2009-05-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: andrewbanandrew on 2006-06-29 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Ehhh

We didn't finish the route due to thunderstorms so I shouldn't really comment on its overall quality, but...

I don't feel that there were any 5.9 moves on the lower half of the route. It's not very sustained--maybe 3-4 5.8 moves followed by 10-20 feet of what feels like climbing stairs.

It's safe--it felt like clipping in a gym, and I was able to pull on the draw above me while holding onto the one below when the lightning came.

Please note that I was in a bad mood that day having climbed for 6 straight days and getting a little burntout.

If you are an aspiring 5.10 leader looking for a good way to introduce yourself to a multipitch route this is probably your best bet in Boulder Canyon. In fact if this describes you I would highly recommend it.

If you've done more than single pitch sport already, I wouldn't waste your time unless your buddies really, really, really want to go.



Added: 2007-10-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Deibold on 2007-08-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Young and the Rackless

Awesome climb!

Added: 2007-08-28

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: boulder_rich on 2006-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Sweet route!

Added: 2006-09-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: eviljay on 2005-10-20 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-10-20

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