To get there, hike up towards the 2d gully on Blob that is located on the left side of the upper east face. As you are hiking up, follow the trail angeling to the right. The first set of bolts you encounter in the gully is where you begin the route. The climb is 4 pitches of 5.9, very well protected sport climbing. The climb can be done in 2 pitches with a 70m rope and 18 draws. P1 = 80', P2 = 60', P3 = 90', P4 = 70'. A fun climb to do after work. You can get great views of Boulder Canyon from high up. We did 2 raps with a 70 m rope.
Submitted by: mother_sheep on 2005-09-08
Route ID: 69482
Wow! First multi-pitch was a blast. Nothing to complain about on this route. It was overly safe with bolts and great rock. The route is straightforward and a great climb. Somewhere between a 5.9 and a 5.10a. Tons of fun. Repel from top to 3rd pitch (basically left traverse following original route). Repel from 3rd pitch straight down to two chain anchors (not used during route). Repel to ground.
Be careful, we had a 60m rope and made the second repel (from 3rd pitch to anchor's directly below) with no more than 2m's of rope to spare.
We didn't finish the route due to thunderstorms so I shouldn't really comment on its overall quality, but...
I don't feel that there were any 5.9 moves on the lower half of the route. It's not very sustained--maybe 3-4 5.8 moves followed by 10-20 feet of what feels like climbing stairs.
It's safe--it felt like clipping in a gym, and I was able to pull on the draw above me while holding onto the one below when the lightning came.
Please note that I was in a bad mood that day having climbed for 6 straight days and getting a little burntout.
If you are an aspiring 5.10 leader looking for a good way to introduce yourself to a multipitch route this is probably your best bet in Boulder Canyon. In fact if this describes you I would highly recommend it.
If you've done more than single pitch sport already, I wouldn't waste your time unless your buddies really, really, really want to go.