Great moderate trad lead, 4 short pitches. Wander up a low angle face on the big south face to a ledge. Traverse right to a ramp system and belay at a stance below a perfect hand crack. Pitch 3 climbs the beautiful handcrack, belay below the summit roofs. Pitch 4 pulls some strange but juggy overhangs to the summit tower. It is probably easiest to run pitches 3 and 4 together. Rap off the east side of the spire into a gully.
Submitted by: atg200 on 2001-10-16
Route ID: 5330
The rating on this route is VERY stiff and the finger crack towards the top is hard to protect making it a huge mental trip. I give it a PG13 because of that hard to protect section.
The descent for this route is also very hard to find, the gully described here is not a viable decent route. We were caught up here after dark and attempted the gully, it was too dangerous to descend so we had to rap down it with a FULL 60m rope length, leaving our rope as booty for the next lucky person to go down the gully.