Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
Follow SOB gully down to about 200 ft above the river. For landmarks, just look for the arching crack of the second pitch, or the vector traverse and hand cracks of ESCAPE ARTIST. Both routes start at same point. Gain the ledge on the south wall and follow (4th-lower 5th) until at a flat ledge on the right. P1- Belay here and climb up hand crack on left (.9,100ft.) and belay beneath the arching crack. P2- (.10c,100ft.) Jam, smear the arching crack to the top of a block. starts thin, gets wider at top. P3-(.8, 180-190ft?) climb directly above on cracks and face. Use long runners and plan your placements to reduce drag. Continue until at a big sloping ledge beneath the black corner. P4- Either climb the black corner (.10b) or up 10 ft. and traverse left on an easy ledge (.6,80 ft.)to the base of the corner crack. P5- (.9) Climb up the corner with fist jams and smears for 50 ft., then continue up easier ground to a suitable ledge for belay. P6- (10a,60ft.) Climb the reddish corner on climber's right (easier than it looks) to the large ledge, belay next to the lightning bolt crack. P7- Climb the corner (.9) then step right into a dirty looking pegmatite crack to a good ledge, or Lightning Bolt crack (11a) to the ledges above. Simul or solo to the top (350 ft.) DESCENT-Climb on easy 5th to the top, stay left. At the edge you will find rap webbing that will drop you a half rope length between boulders and to the bottom. Scramble up the easy 3rd class choss pile to the North to the rim and the campground trail.
Submitted by: philwortmann on 2006-12-19
Route ID: 26988