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Comic Relief - 5.10c

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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Rock (Trad)
PG13
7
Trad Rack
1000
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

Follow SOB gully down to about 200 ft above the river. For landmarks, just look for the arching crack of the second pitch, or the vector traverse and hand cracks of ESCAPE ARTIST. Both routes start at same point. Gain the ledge on the south wall and follow (4th-lower 5th) until at a flat ledge on the right. P1- Belay here and climb up hand crack on left (.9,100ft.) and belay beneath the arching crack. P2- (.10c,100ft.) Jam, smear the arching crack to the top of a block. starts thin, gets wider at top. P3-(.8, 180-190ft?) climb directly above on cracks and face. Use long runners and plan your placements to reduce drag. Continue until at a big sloping ledge beneath the black corner. P4- Either climb the black corner (.10b) or up 10 ft. and traverse left on an easy ledge (.6,80 ft.)to the base of the corner crack. P5- (.9) Climb up the corner with fist jams and smears for 50 ft., then continue up easier ground to a suitable ledge for belay. P6- (10a,60ft.) Climb the reddish corner on climber's right (easier than it looks) to the large ledge, belay next to the lightning bolt crack. P7- Climb the corner (.9) then step right into a dirty looking pegmatite crack to a good ledge, or Lightning Bolt crack (11a) to the ledges above. Simul or solo to the top (350 ft.) DESCENT-Climb on easy 5th to the top, stay left. At the edge you will find rap webbing that will drop you a half rope length between boulders and to the bottom. Scramble up the easy 3rd class choss pile to the North to the rim and the campground trail.

Submitted by: philwortmann on 2006-12-19
Views: 1043
Route ID: 26988

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10 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: flamer on 2008-05-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun route

standard route is not harder than 5.10a.
Black corner variation is 5.10b/c.

Added: 2008-05-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: useyourfeet on 2007-04-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars super duper

did black corner and lightning bolt variations *(Followed both). Highly recomended

Added: 2007-09-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tharlow on 2007-04-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars wow

great route, steep, felt long, good rock and a great day first grade III in the Black

Added: 2007-06-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clusterfuck on 2001-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars comic relief

realy phenominal route, great rock to, a good route to see if you want to climb more in the black, you may find yourself continuing the search for good rock years later.

Added: 2007-05-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: jpdoc01 on 2007-04-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars My first climb in the Black.

I have heard so many horror stories about the Black I was ultraprepared (ie - took a lot of stuff) for this climb. I learned an important leason about how much it sucks to climb with a heavy pack.

Added: 2007-04-30

... Read all 10 ascent notes