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The entire North Shore and Palisade Head are NO CHALK areas!
Palisade Head is part of the Tettegouche State Park and a climbing permit is required. Permits are free and available at the ranger station at the main park enterance. Weather at Palisade is highly variable. Be prepared for chilly or COLD weather, even in late July.
The possibility of becoming seriously stranded at the base of Palisade Head should be taken into consideration. A fixed rope in the boulder cave at the south edge of the Amphitheater or on the Southern Escape Gully (5.0) can help protect against this.
Also be cautious of loose rock throughout the area and tourists. The parking lot at the top of the cliff will see just as many sight-seers and hikers as it does climbers. Most non-climbers will not be aware that it could be dangerous for you if they kick/trip on your anchor at the top of the cliff.
In an emergency, call 911 or contact the park office. The nearest phones are in Silver Bay and at the Tettegouche Rest Area. Mobile phone signals can be sporatic in this area.
(from the Falcon Guide) The cliff is divided into several logical sections. Directly below the parking lot is an indentation known as The Amphitheater. From the tourist retaining wall at the southern edge of The Amphitheater, the Southern Ramparts stretches south to "Southern Escape Gully." South of that you find The South Annex. From the northern edge of The Amphitheater ("Superior Crack"), a large forbidding wall (The Central Ramparts) runs north, decreasing in height to North Tower. The cliffs past North Tower are shorter, then begin to grow again until the end of the talus at "The Poseidon Adventure". This area is called the Northern Ramparts. Access to the bases of the climbs depends on your goals. If you are top-roping, either rappelling or lowering down from above is often the simplest solution. Even a longish climb like "Danger High Voltage" can be (barely) top-roped from above. To climb "Danger High Voltage" and more southerly routes from the talus, a descent of "Southern Escape Gully" is the easiest approach. The Amphitheater is the best approach for routes from "Dirty Harry" to North Tower. "Bluebells" is an 80-foot rappel (and a popular climb; avoid leaving an unattended rope). Reach the talus north of North Tower by rappelling in the vacinity of "Arms Race," "V-Max," or "Water Babies" (80'). A 60-meter rope makes life more comfortable. (taken from the Falcon Guide)
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