One of the best routes in the canyon, The Next Century ascends a gorgeous varnished apron and arete for two pitches. This route is a definite testpiece for any 5.10 leader! Start just right of a low roof about 200' right of Y2K in a nice crack system. Pitch 1: Ascend the right leaning crack/arete system for a short distance until you can move left onto a large featured slab. Belay at a bolted station. 5.7, 80' Pitch 2: Step right (bolt) to the arete and climb the tricky slab up to a shallow dihedral. Climb through the dihedral to the steep wall above- climb generally straight up, eventually arriving at a decent ledge. 5.10d, 120' Descent: Rappel once with two ropes, landing on a ledge just right of the base. Pull your ropes from the base to avoid snags or take one 70m.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Route ID: 57238
first pitch is straight forward with good pro. basically climbing small varnished ramp while jammin hands in about 3-4inch crack. the second pitch is real fun. while at first glance there may seem to be little or no gear-keep climbing there is. be worth linking together for one long pitch with a 70m. if doing this start off the ramp on the right of the opening crack and where you end up rapping down.
The second pitch of this route is great! From the bottom it looks improbable but ends up being very doable as you move up and discover face holds. Bring wires and small cams as the gear on the second pitch can be hard to find (and interesting) between bolts. This pitch was the best I've done in Red Rocks so far.