Standard rack with small pieces and gear up to three or four inches
(p. 1, 5.5) A nondescript lead. Either follow the corner or do Union Jack's first pitch up to an obvious good ledge. (p. 2, 5.8 A0) Follow pockets up to a roof, step right and follow the obvious thin flake up and right to the bolt. Lower 15-30 feet and swing across the slab into the next corner. Bump up a few feet to a small stance and belay. Tim Kemple has freed this at 5.12. (p.3, 5.9) Follow the beautiful and clean arching finger crack on the left wall up to an overlap. Make a strange move above the overlap and stop at an obvous belay. (p. 4, 5.9) Make another awkward move off the belay around the corner and continue up the crack. It starts at micro wires and ends at four inches. Belay at pitons below the obvious half moon. (p. 5, 5.9 - FA called it 5.8) Move up to the notorious Half Moon Crack. Thrash and wiggle your way up and stop at an obvious belay above it. Savor the views and either continue up a pitch or 5.6 and some scrambling or rap the route.
**There's allegedly a way to avoid this pitch. One should not attempt this route if one needs such options.
Continue up at will and descend at the (ex) Old Man as for Moby Grape or rap down with 2-3 double rope rappels
Submitted by: edge on 2007-09-10
Route ID: 58654
Was able to climb this in full on winter conditions. Temps in the mid 20's. Was familiar with the route from summer ascent. Found it very demanding and very rewarding. It was cool to do the pendulum in wool knickers, and thick wool socks crammed into my rock shoes.
A fantastic route, the best of my limited Cannon excursions. Don't forget pitches 3 & 4, although the Halfmoon gets the glory these pitches are excellent as well. How did this plum not go until the late 70s?