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Thorazine Dream - 5.11d

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock
draws
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

To the right of the Box Overhang routes lies this striking, thin, well-chalked face. Start over a small roof and pull onto slab after first bolt. Rest of the route is characterized by increasing steepness and difficulty on crimpy holds. One of the better routes here.

Submitted by: crackmd on 2005-05-21
Views: 485
Route ID: 59235

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: gregory_huey on 2008-07-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Yow - tough route

From the guidebook description I thought the crux might be pulling the roof - not so for me. I found the crux to be about 2/3rds the way up - it gets steep, and the holds tiny. I was struggling to get to, and then clip the next bolt on monos and tiny crimpers. Had the feet been but a little worse, I would think the crux a 12a. Those little monos can tear the skin, and fingertips popping off the micro crimps and raking the rock is none too fun either. Yowee. I flailed style-less at the crux, but I'm still proud to say I made it to the top on lead. Definitely one of the most difficult 11s I've ever led.

Added: 2008-07-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: crackmd on 2005-05-20 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

fun but painful pocket pulling and crimping.

Witnessed by: crackrn
Added: 2005-05-20