Routes : North America : United States : New Mexico : Northern New Mexico : White Rock : The Overlook : Thorazine Dream
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Thorazine Dream - 5.11d
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Description:
To the right of the Box Overhang routes lies this striking, thin, well-chalked face. Start over a small roof and pull onto slab after first bolt. Rest of the route is characterized by increasing steepness and difficulty on crimpy holds. One of the better routes here.
Submitted by: crackmd on 2005-05-21
Views: 629
Route ID: 59235
2 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Hang Dog ascent by:
Yow - tough route
From the guidebook description I thought the crux might be pulling the roof - not so for me. I found the crux to be about 2/3rds the way up - it gets steep, and the holds tiny. I was struggling to get to, and then clip the next bolt on monos and tiny crimpers. Had the feet been but a little worse, I would think the crux a 12a. Those little monos can tear the skin, and fingertips popping off the micro crimps and raking the rock is none too fun either. Yowee. I flailed style-less at the crux, but I'm still proud to say I made it to the top on lead. Definitely one of the most difficult 11s I've ever led.
Added: 2008-07-06
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
Onsight ascent by:
Ascent Note
fun but painful pocket pulling and crimping.
Witnessed by: crackrn
Added: 2005-05-20
Added: 2005-05-20
