Seizes the imagination by the audacity of its line. Slog up the right side of the N. Face, up into the Eye, and don iron at a central tree. First Pitch: Climb around the right edge of the Eye and up to a comfortable ledge about 120'. Watch the loose rock! The Eye is beneath and to your left as you hopelessly scan the soaring slabs above. Second Pitch: Slide down and tippy-toe across a fine tiny ledge just over the Eye. Then mount up over some steep little problems to a fine belay standing behind a giant flake. This pitch is indirect and runs out about 100' of rope. If you have reached the right perch, the great steep ramp-dihedral (a prominent groove visible from afar) begins where you are and mounts directly overhead. To the left of it are the vertical slabs directly over the Eye. A possible mistake on this pitch is to head for another prominent groove system directly over the belay spot at the end of the first pitch. Third Pitch: Run out the rope up the steep ramp. Rock is a bit rotten and protection must be searched for. One can actually get about 3 good pro's in on this stretch. Staying on small holds on the ramp is usually best, with an occasional layback move in the dihedral. If your rope is long enough (165') you reach a belay bolt just above a hardy bush. Fourth Pitch: Continue up the ramp where it steepens and terminates some 40' above. Ease across the slab into the very dihedral itself at the top and layback out of it. Then continue over a steep sloping ledge and up an easy crack to a spacious gouged out place. (This takes about 165'; if your rope is 150', nail in a belay at the bottom of the easy crack and make the short bit to the gouged area an extra pitch.) Fifth Pitch: Traverse left out of the gouge and around the corner onto vertical rock. Perfect holds - another beautiful airy high spot. Climb up a little dihedral to the top of a little buttress, then work left some 15' and then up. A good belay spot is reached at about rope's end. This pitch is especially beautiful since it clings to the steepest part of the upper face directly over the Eye. Sixth Pitch: Mount easy 5th about 100' to a small roof system which is turned by a delicate step or two at its right end. The belay spot is shortly above. The Flea Tree is visible at about this level 150' to the right. Seventh Pitch: 4th class to easy summit ground. Then unrope and waltz to the summit.
Rock fall has altered the line of the end of the 4th and the entire 5th pitchs. Will revise with any new ascents.
Submitted by: LongReach on 2008-04-18
Route ID: 93167