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Gandalf - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.11/5 Average Rating : 4.11 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (16)
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Rock
Multi-Pitch Pro to 3 1/2" TCU's or small wire suggested
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.71/5
  Rock Quality 3.86/5
  Scenery 2.86/5
  Fun Factor 4.43/5

Description:

Commence up steep ground to the right of the alcove. A vertical crack climbing leads to a precarious stance on small ledges then move up left(bolts) via sloping insecure smears(5.9+) to Gollum's Hang. Surmount the crux(fixed piton) and belay. The second pitch continues up a crack corner through two small overhangs (5.8) then angles up right to a belay on a small ledge. Above is an obvious wide crack. Climb this to the top and walk off, or rappel from her to previous anchor.

Submitted by: nikegirl on 2006-10-02
Views: 1685
Route ID: 6902

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16 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: souclimber on 2016-03-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars GG

Enjoyable and technical for the grade. Enjoyable day in the sunshine

Added: 2016-04-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: derrickp on 2012-02-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars One of the most fun routes at Broughton.

This route will make you question the grade but never will you question choosing to do this route. Superb!

Added: 2012-02-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: brizza on 2011-04-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Gandalf's Grip: Round 3

Finally send. I'd add a letter grade to the difficulty because I couldn't feel my fingers at all the rock was so cold. Had to look at my hands to make sure they were on the holds. I led p1 Toby took p2

Added: 2011-04-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: brizza on 2011-02-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Gandalf's Grip: Round 2

Climbed with Scott. Led both pitches - fell again at the crux. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice . . . .

Added: 2011-02-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: brizza on 2011-01-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Gandalf's Grip

Michael led p1, I took p2. Slipped off following on the mantle move at the end of p1 - grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Super high-quality route. Gotta go get it clean.

Added: 2011-01-27

... Read all 16 ascent notes