Commence up steep ground to the right of the alcove. A vertical crack climbing leads to a precarious stance on small ledges then move up left(bolts) via sloping insecure smears(5.9+) to Gollum's Hang. Surmount the crux(fixed piton) and belay. The second pitch continues up a crack corner through two small overhangs (5.8) then angles up right to a belay on a small ledge. Above is an obvious wide crack. Climb this to the top and walk off, or rappel from her to previous anchor.
Submitted by: nikegirl on 2006-10-02
Route ID: 6902
Finally send. I'd add a letter grade to the difficulty because I couldn't feel my fingers at all the rock was so cold. Had to look at my hands to make sure they were on the holds. I led p1 Toby took p2