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Point of No Return - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 20
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock
G
2
Small gear very helpful. (0 tcu, blue and red ballnuts) Doubles in finger size gear for P2. Nothing larger than #3 Camalot. Offset nuts helpful, but not req'd.
170
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 2.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

This route follows the outside of the arch of the land of the giants wall. The first pitch is moderately runout on easy 5.4 terrain to a delicate 5.7 traverse (swing potential) ending at the belay in the corner under the roof. The second pitch continues to traverse left, following a finger crack on perfect clean quartzite at 5.8+, with an easier 5.6 variation if you keep traversing. Pitch 1 - 5.7 PG13 - Begin almost as far right as possible on the Land of the Giants Wall, at the only spot the clean rock extends to the ground. Follow the path of least resistance up the rock to a shallow groove at about 60 feet.. After the groove, angle left up an easy slab, towards the arete of the arch. Get gear in a short diagonal finger crack, then move directly up for a few feet. Traverse around the blunt arete to a slabby face with very little gear (blue ballnut handy here). Continue to traverse across the delicate face (crux) for 15 feet to the left facing corner below the roof. Belay on fingers sized gear. Pitch 2 - 5.8+/5.6 G - Follow the finger crack above the left side of the belay around the outside corner (exposed, wild), and continue to traverse for 25 feet to a right facing inside corner above a small alcove. (V1) Move awkwardly up the corner (crux, 5.8+), then diagonal left to the rappel tree on surprise. V1 - 5.6 G - Continue traversing for another 20 feet, following the same crack (very small gear) to a left facing inside corner (top of Cheiftan). Move up this corner for 15 feet to the top.

Descent Options:

Rappel from the tree atop Surprise. A single 70m rope will get you down (or two 60m ropes). There is also usually a second fixed rap anchor halfway down with a fixed nut and a small birch.

Submitted by: rockscaler2 on 2006-08-05
Last Modified: 2013-07-07
Views: 610
Route ID: 2456

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2 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: abobo123 on 2013-07-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Very good route. Excellent climbing on P2.

This route follows the outside of the arch of the land of the giants wall. The first pitch is moderately runout on easy 5.4 terrain to a delicate 5.7 traverse (swing potential) ending at the belay in the corner under the roof. The second pitch continues to traverse left, following a finger crack on perfect clean quartzite at 5.8+, with an easier 5.6 variation if you keep traversing.

Pitch 1 - 5.7 PG13 - Begin almost as far right as possible on the Land of the Giants Wall, at the only spot the clean rock extends to the ground. Follow the path of least resistance up the rock to a shallow groove at about 60 feet.. After the groove, angle left up an easy slab, towards the arete of the arch. Get gear in a short diagonal finger crack, then move directly up for a few feet. Traverse around the blunt arete to a slabby face with very little gear (blue ballnut handy here). Continue to traverse across the delicate face (crux) for 15 feet to the left facing corner below the roof. Belay on fingers sized gear.

Pitch 2 - 5.8+/5.6 G - Follow the finger crack above the left side of the belay around the outside corner (exposed, wild), and continue to traverse for 25 feet to a right facing inside corner above a small alcove. (V1) Move awkwardly up the corner (crux, 5.8+), then diagonal left to the rappel tree on surprise.

V1 - 5.6 G - Continue traversing for another 20 feet, following the same crack (very small gear) to a left facing inside corner (top of Cheiftan). Move up this corner for 15 feet to the top.

Protection - Small gear very helpful. (0 tcu, blue and red ballnuts) Doubles in finger size gear for P2. Nothing larger than #3 Camalot. Offset nuts helpful, but not req'd.

Added: 2013-07-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: rockscaler2 on 2004-03-16 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

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Added: 2004-03-16