Route is just right of "Precious Orr" and "Golden Gloves." It starts up a chimney to a crack system just below a small tree that is on a ledge halfway up the climb. Above the tree, continue to follow the crack system to a large chimney that penetrates a roof. Climb into and through the chimney (harder for big people) and exit near the top onto the face to the climber's left. Face has good holds from this point to the top. 5.8+ This route is not climbed as much as "Precious Orr" because there are no anchor points at the top of the route and the chimney is tight for large people.
Submitted by: fanederhand on 2004-06-28
Last Modified: 2006-12-04
Route ID: 52595
Interesting moves, unlike anything else at T-Wall...
Easily protected by the small seam on the left side of the chimney, so no large gear is needed until very close to the top (but the climbing is quite easy up top, so you can run it out through the wide gear section...it's not scary). The 5.8 grade seemed a bit high for the climb though. I'm not the "Grading Gestapo" or anything, I guess it depends on your body type. *(I'm 6'2" 185)
The start is pretty intense like most T-Wall entrances and should be discarded when accounting for the 5.8 rating. The chimney up high is exciting with enough gear and jugs to keep you going. There are bolt hangers at the top with a ratty sling threaded through them. Either leave a sling or use the Stepping Stone anchors off to the right to get down.