2 sets RPs(offsets are really useful), 2 set of stoppers, 1 set of cams to 3 inches.
Either free climbed at 5.13a or easily clean aided at 5.9 C2. Climb the incredible splitter finger crack for 60 feet to a belay, 5.13 or C1. Either traverse straight left at 5.9+ or aid C1 up and pendulum left. Either way reaches easier 5.6 climbing which leads to a good belay ledge. Pitch 3 climbs over a 5.9 bulge to an easier bulge and a fantastic ledge. Pitch 4 climbs 5.11 or C2 for 30 feet to fun 5.7 climbing to the summit.
All the pitches are short and the gear is very good. A great introduction to climbing on Cutler sandstone.
Either one double rope rap NOT over the route, or rap back down to the top of 2 if cleaning on rappel. Two anchors on summit.
Submitted by: atg200 on 2006-12-02
Route ID: 5719
Great spire. Did in two pitches as I was soloing. For gear: built anchor in old pin scars w/ purple and yellow aliens, and a red tri-cam. Then one black alien, doubles from blue to red, singles from .75-#2 BD camalots. Also, a beffy set of nuts. I had but did not use any brass offsets. Fun route in a really remote canyon.