7 bolts, through two small roofs at the top with a few small to medium cam placements. Originally led with three bolts and natural placements. Retro bolted by unidentified party other than first ascentionist.
Submitted by: adamwvt on 2006-12-11
Route ID: 38555
I've done this climb numerous times on TR, but leading is the way to go! The protection gets a little hairy after the overhang. I had only a few cams with me, I think a .5, .75, and 2. Probably could have used a 3 high up near the top. Nevertheless, this climb is dope. I highly recommend it.
I did the first lead of this route I think in 1992? I am really not sure of the date. I know that it was no later than the winter of that year ( my daughter was born and my climbing came to a screaching halt). I did the lead after doing it TR with no falls. Originally I hand drilled two or three bolts for the lead (bolts drilled in any manner were controversial in VT at the time), hence the decision to hand drill and only place minimal bolts. I did the Red Point this way with several natural placements as well. After a bit of furor both ways I added (I think) one more bolt. The day of the red point I was belayed by Peter Fielding. We were both employees of Climb High at the time. The original route was very direct, not using the then very dirty, vegetated corner to the left at the start. The first red point I went straight up the face (10a/b face move), and directly up through the first roof, and directly through the second little overlap ( crux 11b move), to the top. I later realized that going directly through this last overlap was a bit contrived. So from then on I would go left below this feature and then move back right before continuing up. This seems more natural. I hear that many people now start this route in the once nasty corner to the left. This eliminates what may be the technical crux of the route. At the time of the first lead this route was definitely an R not PG13. The route is named after the Police song. I am giving it a 10d grade for the first ascent only because of the final overlap direct. I am providing this information for historical perspective only.