About Junkyard Wall:
One of the most popular crags at the New, rivaling even the Bridge Buttress for accessibility and a wide range of climbs, with many moderates. Almost all of the routes are top-ropeable, but please be considerate of impact on the forest when doing so. Try to use gear or bolt anchors rather than trees.
For many years, we enjoyed almost cragtop parking at the Junkyard, nestled in the switchback- much to the chagrin of the rafting company bus drivers- but this era is now over. The old Junkyard road is now a part of the main traffic flow up from the Gorge bottom... park at the designated area near Ames Heights (or walk around from Bridge buttress parking in the turnout). Please don't carcamp and if you do keep it on the DL. Bottom line: the Junkyard is a place where climbers have done a lot of good, but the New is also a textbook of climber impact. Act responsibly or we all pay the price.
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|Directions:||From the Visitor's Center, turn right on 19, drive to the first intersection and turn left, down Ames Hieghts Road. Watch your speed, this is a residential area. Follow Ames Heights down to the first numbered road to the left, Delta 177. (Look for a Rivermen-Class VI sign on the right.) Turn left and park at the first pull out. Some people also park OUT OF THE WAY at the hairpin curve just down the road. The trailhead to the top of the wall busts out from the very tail end of the hairpin. For the bottom, find the trailhead about 50 feet upstream.
Follow the road down to the switchback and turn right to hike out to ladders or access the top of the cliff. continue down road another 150 yards to where path breaks the right shoulder, and follow back towards the base of the cliff.
Hey, if it's full, look at it this way... you have the entire Gorge to explore, and the Junkyard ain't going anywhere.
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