Home to the super-inverted Lactic Acid Bath as well as a concentration of quality routes in the 5.11-5.12+ range, Kaymoor is quite a popular area. This area is the hands down best climbing area in the summer.
Kaymoor is home to a number of pumpfest routes (the Hole), and a plethora of solid 5.11's (Butcher's Branch & 7-11 Wall). But there are many other climbs as well, ranging from 5.9 to 5.13, from roofs to slab, aretes to face.
Free camping is available at Cotton Hill (from Fayetteville, coming South on 19), make a right onto 16 across from Biscuit World. Drive about 5-6 miles until you go down a large hill. Go across a bridge. On the right is the parking for Hawksnest. Continue about a hundred yards until you see a parking area on the left with garbage cans. Hike down the hill. This is a good area because it has both bouldering and swimming, though there are often Yokels here. If you want to be part of the scene and partying is your thing, Roger's Campground is located about 100 yards from the Kaymoor parking lot.
|Nearest town or city:||Fayetteville, WV|
To reach Kaymoor from Fayetteville, bear left at the signs at Gatewood Road, across from Charlie's Pub and Sherrie's Beer Store. Follow this for two miles, take a left at the Kaymoor #1 sign, and continue for about another mile. Park on the right just beyond the obvious remains of the tipple house. Look for the trailhead just a short distance upstream, where a short hike will soon bring you down into the Hole. The first Buttress is further along the Kaymoor Miner's Trail, angling up a bank on the left. Kaymoor consists of eight different areas, with two distinct trail heads depending on the area you wish to visit. It is possible to travel between the two primary trails at the base of the cliffs, but the connector trail gets very overgrown in the summer months as it does not see a lot of traffic. If you plan on trying the connector trail, be prepared to bushwhack and watch for the poison ivy.
|Latitude, Longitude:||38.04523, -81.06708|
|When to Climb:||Update|
|Quantity of Climbs:||Year|
Forum Discussions (9 posts)
|The Uninflatable Ewe, 5.12b at Kaymoor.||sycamore||2||Sep 29 2011, 6:16 AM|
|Airport for The New||mtengaio||6||Sep 29 2010, 2:34 PM|
|Big Block on Sancho||shadowsandwich||0||Nov 09 2008, 7:52 PM|
|kaymoor approach?||aimeerose||5||May 01 2007, 8:28 PM|
|More Development at the New River Gorge||unabonger||0||Oct 19 2005, 1:58 PM|
|Flight of the Gumby clean?||joshy8200||48||Aug 20 2005, 12:46 PM|
|Crack route beside of Pockets of Resistance?||joshy8200||19||Nov 16 2005, 7:51 AM|
|Slash and Burn||dbrayack||2||Jan 25 2005, 2:26 PM|
|Beta on Control||dbrayack||8||Nov 17 2004, 5:56 AM|