Skip to Content

Muscle Beach - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.12/5 Average Rating : 4.12 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Trad)
3
Gear, normal rack
60
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 3.17/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.17/5

Description:

Climb broken rock to overhang with crack on left to corner. Optional belay at top of corner with shuts at 45' or so. Traverse right a few feet, move up through crux flared fist jam to continuous 5.9 climbing above. Shuts at around 110'. Continue to top on easier ground. Fun well protected route.

Submitted by: cclarke on 2006-05-08
Last Modified: 2006-11-18
Views: 957
Route ID: 50039

9 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 9 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: up_for_a_good_time on 2013-06-12 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars very good route

tricky part for pro is the little crack in the roof. tricky part climbing is moving to the flaring handjam. good moves!

Added: 2013-06-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bdc on 2012-09-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars The Beach of Muscles.

This one doesn't get enough credit. One of the best routes I've done at Seneca.

Added: 2012-09-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: zealotnoob on 2011-10-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Redemption

We were saving this for an onsight. We went for it last Nov and failed. We just weren't climbing well, so we bailed in order to save it for another day. Got back on it last weekend and sent. The key for me was figuring out how to play the gear when in the crux.

Added: 2011-10-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: p_wave on 2008-10-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Another nice day.

Be careful placing gear on the first pitch lots of hollow sounding rock.

Added: 2008-10-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dreday3000 on 2008-10-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great fun.

Great route. Did the 1st and 3rd pitch. Looks like lots of people sneak out left of the final roof. Don't do it! Go right through the middle, its freakin' great.

Added: 2008-10-20

... Read all 9 ascent notes