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paolo75
Oct 13, 2006, 1:55 PM
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no to all three questions.
P.
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notapplicable
Oct 13, 2006, 2:06 PM
Post #202 of 323
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Dont chip ever.
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pettsnjam
Oct 13, 2006, 2:28 PM
Post #203 of 323
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Registered: Dec 12, 2000
Posts: 89
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1) NO
2) NO
3) NO
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jgloporto
Oct 13, 2006, 2:36 PM
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No to all three.
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dbrayack
Oct 13, 2006, 3:14 PM
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Where are these routes? They sound fun :)
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g_spot
Oct 13, 2006, 3:35 PM
Post #206 of 323
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How can any climber justify chipping anything. If you can't climb it, then move on. Chippers should rott. The future of climbing has proved it's self and will continue to do so. There are kids doing what was thought to be impossible 15 years ago.
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thespider
Oct 13, 2006, 4:32 PM
Post #209 of 323
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No, No, NO. Leave the rock for the next generations of climbers that can climb them.
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veganboyjosh
Oct 13, 2006, 4:41 PM
Post #210 of 323
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In reply to: In reply to: Well, it's alive again. No, it's the walking dead. Learn the difference. This one will eat your brains. GO
there's two rules i live by in this world:
you can't knock up a pregnant lady, and you can't kill something that's already dead.
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fluxus
Oct 13, 2006, 4:48 PM
Post #211 of 323
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Its Back woo-hoo!
I just love the continuous stream of NO! NO! NO! in this thread. I wonder what people think they are climbing on?
I think all the people who said NO to all three should put their money where their keyboard is an refuse to climb at any crag that has been chipped to show that its unaccaptable and they won't stand for it.
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blazesod
Oct 13, 2006, 4:53 PM
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If you chip the rock without the use of tools i.e.) using your teeth, fingernails or skull, then I vote yes to all three.
If on the other hand you wish to use tools, then no, no and no.
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the_climber
Oct 13, 2006, 5:41 PM
Post #213 of 323
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
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No
NO
NO!
NO!!
and
NO
Now, if you could do it by shooting lightning bolts from your eyes and fire balls from you a$$, then go right ahead. I don't thing anyone would argue with any of the options in the OP if you could do that. :D
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veganboyjosh
Oct 13, 2006, 5:57 PM
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In reply to: shooting lightning bolts from your eyes and fire balls from you a$$,
i didn't know william wallace was a climber...
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jt512
Oct 13, 2006, 7:17 PM
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In reply to: Its Back woo-hoo! I just love the continuous stream of NO! NO! NO! in this thread. I wonder what people think they are climbing on?
They think they're climbing on unimproved rock. Hahahahaha!!!!!11
Jay
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cracklover
Oct 13, 2006, 7:27 PM
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Posts: 10162
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Necromancer:
http://redwing.hutman.net/...sets/necromancer.jpg
In reply to: Necormancer has a supernatural ability to bring long-dead forum discussion threads back to life. After having been flogged to death the thread may have been deceased for many years, and bringing it back may have scant relevance to the current topic, yet Necromancer will unexpectedly exhume the thread’s rotting corpse, and strike horror in the forum as its grotesque form lurches into the discussion. The monster, instantly recognized by all who knew it in life, seems at first to breathe and have a pulse, but, alas, it is beyond Necromancer’s skill to fully restore the thread’s original vitality. The hideous apparition may frighten away some of the weaker Warriors or Warriors badly wounded in former battles, but the thread is only a shadow of its former self and very quickly expires.
(from http://redwing.hutman.net/...shtm/necromancer.htm)
Necromancers are scum. I bet theicemoose also prefers his sex partners as cold as ice. Sick. Totally sick.
GO
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fluxus
Oct 13, 2006, 8:15 PM
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In reply to: They think they're climbing on unimproved rock. Hahahahaha!!!!!11 Jay
poor-misled-idealistic-head-in-the-sand-clueless sods. We did try to tell them earlier in this thread tho didn't we, like a year ago.
Can I do a thread jack?
Here is the challenge: name a climbing area in the U.S. that does not have routes that are chipped, "creativly cleaned", sculpted or glued etc.
Or, perhaps more to the point, list all the classic routes at your favorite crag that ARE chipped, glued and creativly cleaned and other wise manipulated.
I'll go first:
Every sandstone and limestone route in the intermountain west. with the possible exception of a few routes at "the hoop."
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david_smithrock
Oct 13, 2006, 8:50 PM
Post #218 of 323
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Practically every route 5.12 or harder on Smith tuff, (yes, even the classics) are chipped or glued to some degree. The funny thing is, people don't even know! I've climbed several "four star" classics numerous times before noticing glue under a flake, or a friend pointing out a sneakily chiseled pocket.
Some of the more extreme (and obvious) examples at Smith include gluing rocks onto the wall for holds, mostly in the out-of-the-way areas. People get uptight about this, since the masses easily realize it's manufactured. (so they go to climb one they don't know is manufactured). I guess the moral is, don't make it obvious?
And lets not even get into crack climbing! It's hard to find a crack 5.11 or harder that doesn't rely on pin scars.
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diophantus
Oct 13, 2006, 9:44 PM
Post #219 of 323
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Have any of you every seen the "chipped wall" in squamish, I wonder why they named it that?
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diophantus
Oct 13, 2006, 10:06 PM
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In reply to: Or, perhaps more to the point, list all the classic routes at your favorite crag that ARE chipped, glued and creativly cleaned and other wise manipulated. I'll go first: Every sandstone and limestone route in the intermountain west. with the possible exception of a few routes at "the hoop."
The Nose. Now everyone STFU.
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edl
Oct 14, 2006, 10:16 AM
Post #221 of 323
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Posts: 134
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Sorry, one last point.
In reply to: And lets not even get into crack climbing! It's hard to find a crack 5.11 or harder that doesn't rely on pin scars.
Ever been to Indian Creek? Vedauwoo? South Platt? Fremont Canyon? Etc... That statement shows an obvious ignorance. In most crack climbing areas I have been to what you are saying occassionally exists but it is by FAR the exception and not the rule.
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chossmonkey
Oct 14, 2006, 12:52 PM
Post #222 of 323
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In reply to: NO, NO, and NOOOOOO! Let nature take its course! Maybe in 200 years some features will fall off and create a perfect route! An earthquake could happen and create a nice hand crack! I'm sure there are plenty of other routes already in existence that you haven't done yet. --Steve Three Ball Climbing
In reply to: NO, NO, and NOOOOOO! Let nature take its course! Maybe in 200 years some features will fall off and create a perfect route! An earthquake could happen and create a nice hand crack! I'm sure there are plenty of other routes already in existence that you haven't done yet. --Steve Three Ball Climbing
What a way to make your posting debut.
Double post. :righton:
!!!!AND NOW FOR OUR FEATURE PRESENTATION!!!!
http://i26.photobucket.com/...adran/die-thread.jpg
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devkrev
Oct 14, 2006, 1:41 PM
Post #223 of 323
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Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933
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oh...I missed that picture!!!
That it's back makes me happy.
dev
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j_ung
Oct 14, 2006, 1:58 PM
Post #224 of 323
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
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In reply to: Its Back woo-hoo! I just love the continuous stream of NO! NO! NO! in this thread. I wonder what people think they are climbing on? I think all the people who said NO to all three should put their money where their keyboard is an refuse to climb at any crag that has been chipped to show that its unaccaptable and they won't stand for it.
Speaking as somebody who has developed routes and boulder problems and never chipped or comfortized a single hold, I refuse to climb anything that I know has been intentionally chipped. This is not to say those routes are beneath me or anything like that. It's just my own silent protest of the practice.
However, this begs the question, where do I draw my personal line? I've certainly pried loose flakes and block off of new lines -- and is that really any different than chipping? I'll climb on glued and reinforced holds, but I've never glued any myself. I'll happily wire-brush lichen and dirt off of rock to open new routes. And, I understand fully that, sometimes normal traffic accomplishes most of the things I hate about chipping anyway.
But to me there's a difference between altering rock for safety and altering it for ego purposes. And make no mistake ego is at the root of every reason to chip. If we allow chipping in our areas to make an unclimbable line climbable, then what's to stop everybody from following the example and, say, chipping a pocket to turn a 5.9 into a 5.7? No, I think the ethic muct be applied evenly over the grades, or else, like I said, it's an ego-driven ethic.
But the trump card is this: ethics must be local in nature. I want no part in deciding or judging ethics in an area that's hundreds of miles from me and in which I may never even climb. You're a Wild Iris local and you chip? I wouldn't do it, but I have no say in whether or not you do. Likewise people who live nowhere near where I climb can keep their opinions to themselves, thank you very much.
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j_ung
Oct 14, 2006, 2:05 PM
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Oops, my bad. I didn't see that I was, in fact, a vicim of the Necromancer. :oops:
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