Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
** Index To Dr. Piton Stuff **:
Dec 21, 2002, 4:15 PM
Registered: Oct 9, 2001
INDEX TO DR. PITON POSTS
[Like]SECOND HALF, eh?]
When it comes to big wall lead racks bedecked with fifty pounds of aid gear, the usual state of affairs is "Chaos! Chaos! Chaos!" But by making these specific big wall rack modifications, you can reduce your wank factor, save time during changeovers, and actually be able to find stuff you need when you need it. Since you are reading this post, then you know finding stuff to be a VGT. You can click here to Ask Dr. Piton... about modifying the big wall gear rack. "Some day, all big wall aid racks will be made this way. But until then, you will have to do it yourself." A Dr. Piton SIGNATURE POST.
Once you have modified your big wall rack, it would be a VGT if you knew how to put stuff onto it. Please click here to Ask Dr. Piton ... about how to rack your rack. If you and your partner(s) follow these tips, you will always know where stuff is, your stuff won't get [so] tangled, and your racking and changeover wank factors will be hugely reduced. A Dr. Piton SIGNATURE POST.
Is your co-efficient of wank spiralling out of control? Does your unbridled clusterf*ckage precede you to every corner of the climbing community? If so, then you are not alone. Neither are you beyond hope. In this Dr. Piton SIGNATURE POST, you will learn [among many other things] how to steel your mind, how to prepare stuff for the wall, how to manage your ropes, and how to construct a vell-organicized bivi. Click here to read one of the Doc's best-ever posts, and to exclaim, Help Dr. Piton - It's Eating Me Alive!
There is a corollary to Murphy's Law which states, "you will always pack to the available space." This means that no matter how big your pig is, it will never be big enough. And if by some small miracle it is big enough, then you will have a helluva time getting stuff out of it. You can click here to find out how to prepare your sow for the wall, for there are a number of things you must do for her. You will also read how to prepare other stuff for the wall, and finally your can learn how to pack your porker. Click here and exclaim, Dr. Piton, my pig's not fat enough!
Every now and then, I get an easy one. You can click here to read how to protect yourself after the pendulum. Not rocket science, just the Better Way.
Ever wonder why Dr. Piton specializes in "off-the-couch" ascents? Well, you'd better click here to find out! One of Duncan's finest posts!
Ever dropped stuff? If you are a wall climber, there is only one answer to that question. But the question is, do you booty more than you drop? You can click here to comment on Your Worth as a Wall Climber. Are you on the plus side or the minus side? Find out where the Doc stands in this department.
And be sure to click here to read about Dr. Piton's All-Time Boneheaded Move! Yes folks, it's true, you can read about How Dr. Piton Dropped Tom's Pig. Sheesh.
Every now and then your clusterf*ckage can actually kill you. Make no mistake - climbing is deadly serious. If you blow it, the grim reaper eagerly awaits with open arms. Here is the story of one poor unfortunate whose combination of errors cost him his life. You can click here to read Mistakes + Synergy = DEATH. I publish such things in the interest of keeping you alive, which in Dr. Piton parlance is a VGT. Three thousands readers have agreed.
Ever wonder why the speed climbers climb in a team of three? Ever wonder how to do it? You can click here to read about the Better Way to climb in a team of three.
*** UNANSWERED POST ***
Ask Dr. Piton.... about how to move gear efficiently between leader and second (and/or third)
BIG WALL THEORY
Here you'll find some really great examples of how NOT to do stuff!
I am endlessly amused when mainstream climbing magazines publish really stupid ways of doing stuff. I mean, don't these guys ever fricking climb?! You can click here to read More 'BIG WALL THEORY' from Climbing Magazine. Sheesh.
And if that ain't enough, you can click here to see where Climbing Magazine tells you how to destroy your gonads while rappelling with a heavy load. Fortunately, RC.com's addiroids set the mag straight.
You can click here to read my unpublished letter to the Editor of Climbing Mag. Sheesh.
The BWT's loved this one - Ask Dr. Piton ... about Chongo's 2:1 Hauling Ratchet There's 3:1's and 5:1's - hell, there's even a 7:1. Everything you never needed to know.
Maybe you're NOT a BWT. Perhaps you have successfully soloed a big wall. If so, then you should click here to answer Dr. Piton's BIG WALL SOLOIST Role Call.
LIVING ON THE WALL
Ever wonder what the Doc pigs out on when he's up there for so long? Need some ideas for haute cuisine? You can click here to get a few ideas about big wall food.
I don't know how many times I've been asked, "how do you go to the bathroom on the wall?" Traditional Technology would have you use a poop tube. But I believe the Better Way to be the Wall Flower. It ain't perfect, but it beats the heck out of carrying down your sh*t from the summit! You can click here to read about The Wall Flower - the Better Way to big wall human waste management. This post contains a rather humourous eye-witness account...
You can also click here to read more about Big Wall Bathrooms.
The Nose on El Capitan is arguably the World's Greatest Rock Climb. In the Doc's opinion, it should be every trad climber's goal to one day climb The Nose. But The Nose presents a much different challenge than other El Cap routes because of its length, difficulty of hauling, abundance of bivi ledges, and exclusively clean protection. While Dr. Piton's Ultimate Big Wall Checklist will tell you about all the stuff you need to climb a full-on El Cap nailup, if The Nose is in your plans, then you really should click here to Ask Dr. Piton... about The Nose gear list. Find out what stuff you need, and what stuff you don't need to bring.
You can click here to Ask Dr. Piton ... about Zodiac clean. The Zodiac on El Cap is one of the world's most popular aid lines. If you want to know more, check here.
Remember, the best source of El Cap beta can be found by going to Dr. Piton's profile, and checking out his resume of El Cap climbs. The Doc has managed to claw his way up El Cap twenty-one times by twenty-one different routes, including six solo ascents. Check out the Doc's trip reports, and see what beta you can glean.
If you want any further beta on any of these climbs, it's only a mouse click away - just send me a PM and I'd be glad to help! [For a small fee - like, think "sherpa"....]
Man, you'd think with nearly five thousand hits the guy might get the [HINT] and make some more copies available. Yes! the book really does exist. It's a six-hundred page tome called The Complete Book of Big Wall Climbing - Volume One - The Ground Manual. I'm the Editor. You can click here to try to figure out how the heck to get yourself a copy: Dr. PTPP: Your Book?
Some people simply do not "get it". Some people do not believe Chongo's book exists, or that I am who I say I am. So I decided to tell you. I thought it would be a good idea to provide a reference. And when providing a reference, I figured I ought to go straight to the top. I mean, if you're gonna provide a reference, ya might as well give a good one, eh? So who better than the World's Greatest Climber? You can click here to read Dr. Piton's statement of IDENTITY and CREDIBILITY where he provides a REFERENCE. This is the first time I've published the location of this amusing little story, though it's been "hiding" here for the better part of a year. [I'm a wascally wabbit.] All of my "sheep" please say "Baaaaaaaaaa......."
Ask Dr. Piton ... about aid ratings Are you confused about aid climbing ratings? Join the club! I don't fricking "get it" either, but here is my attempt to explain it. Find out about old school vs. new wave aid ratings, clean aid ratings, and what I believe to be the Better Way to rate an aid route - the Casual Rating System. You too can die on New Wave A2+! If this one doesn't leave you shaking your head, nothing will.
Ever wonder what makes hard aid hard? You can click here to find out.
Dr. Piton defines 'Trade Route' and talks about BWT's - This three-part series wil help you understand where the term "trade route" comes from, and gives you insight into Big Wall Theorists.
Does aid climbing seem a bit hypocritical to you? That you would bash in pins and heads, but not actually drill? If you want to add to your confusion, you can click here to read some of Dr. Piton's thoughts about style, ethics and drilling.
Here is a really useful knot that you will use again and again on every single pitch on the big wall! You can click here to read about The amazing BUTTERFLY knot, and the BETTER WAY to tie it.
Now, if you happen to be fixing ropes for jugging and rapping, and have to join together two ropes, and can't put the knot at a rebelay which is best, then you can click here to see a really cool knot for joining together two fixed ropes.
Would you trust your life to something called a Death Knot? I would. The European Death Knot is the Better Way to join two ropes together for a double-rope rappel. It is much less likely to hang up when you pull the ropes! [If you have ever had your rappel ropes get stuck, then you will know precisely what I mean!] The EDK is NOT unsafe - at least if you tie it correctly - it merely LOOKS scary! You can click here to read about the European Death Knot - the Better Way to join two ropes for a double-rope rappel.
Ever wonder how good some o' them-thar gear catalogues are? Do they "get it", or are they just blowing hot air? You can click here to read where Dr. Piton Pontificates ... on the 2002 Metolius catalogue.
Do you appreciate Dr. Piton's stuff? A lot of people do! So much so that they have met me in Yosemite, brought me beer, given me rides, put me up [and put up with me!], and even schlepped my pigs. "Greater love hath none than this: that he pick up a pig for his friend." You can click here to read my HUGE THANKS to everyone for all your help in Yosemite! [May-June 2002] and also Dr. Piton says THANKS to everyone for all your help in Yosesmite this fall! [August-September 2002]
It is a well-known fact that Dr. Piton does not train. While it is a rare day indeed to catch him in a climbing gym [though he was recently sighted in Wyoming] the Doc actually does do one particular exercise for training, one he picked up from some of the world's greatest climbers while living in Camp 4. Learn what Patrick Edlinger, Aischan Rupp and Janez Jeglic all have in common. Learn why Jason Smith is called "Singer". Quilting ROCKS! [Quilting as finger strength training] [Quilting is also a great chick magnet - heh heh....]
Wanna hear Dr. Piton sing? Probably not. It's not hard to get him to sing - it's just hard to get him to stop. You can click here for the chords and lyrics to his song, I Am A Solo Wall Climber.
And just what the heck is a Big Wall
[ This Message was edited by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-21 13:58 ]
(This post was edited by cliffhanger9 on Mar 25, 2013, 5:19 PM)
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(Moderator) on Mar 25, 2013, 11:03 AM
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(Moderator) on Mar 25, 2013, 3:18 PM
Post edited by cliffhanger9
(Moderator) on Mar 25, 2013, 5:19 PM