Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing:
Post deleted by USnavy
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Sport Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 

Poll: Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
Solid 6 / 12%
Wire 45 / 88%
51 total votes
 

USnavy


Nov 13, 2007, 10:49 AM
Post #1 of 44 (9464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667

Post deleted by USnavy
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  

 


omalavet


Nov 13, 2007, 12:04 PM
Post #2 of 44 (9449 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 12, 2007
Posts: 91

Re: [USnavy] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

thw wire is lighter.... nut it is ecually strong.. check the biner ..... you can find how strong they are... and buy the stongest wiregate any way they are not going to brake...and they are all the same (wiregate bent gate from madrock... are really easy to clip)


chossmonkey


Nov 13, 2007, 12:39 PM
Post #3 of 44 (9445 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414

Re: [omalavet] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've always heard that wire gates were stronger when cross loaded. Solid gates rely on the small pin connecting the body and the gate for its gate strength.

All biners aren't the same either.


ja1484


Nov 13, 2007, 12:42 PM
Post #4 of 44 (9443 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 1935

Re: [USnavy] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

 
Safety doesn't have much to do with what biner you're using so long as they're from a reputable brand.

How you're using them matters much more.

You seem to be falling into a trap that a lot of younger climbers end up in - thinking safety comes from the gear.


microbarn


Nov 13, 2007, 2:21 PM
Post #5 of 44 (9385 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920

Re: [USnavy] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

just go into a store and read the minor axis strength. You will see that it is independent of wire or solid gate construction. Either one can be constructed to very high standards.

Gate flutter is a true phenomenon, and wire gates are one way to minimize the chances of it happening.


Dillbag


Nov 13, 2007, 2:30 PM
Post #6 of 44 (9374 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 9, 2007
Posts: 93

Re: [microbarn] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

...I use both, on the same draw...

On "top" goes the solid gate biner (of the notchless variety) and on the "bottom" goes the wire gate.

I like having the "notchless" at the top for clipping nuts, bolts (not that it happens much), manky (and not so manky) pins, ice screws... Well for pretty much clipping any metal or sling... As they don't catch as easily...

Don't find that I need that non-catchiness on the lower end, so I use wire gates to reduce flutter and I guess a little weight...

As far as safety, what everyone else has been saying... Both are good (they wouldn't be sold otherwise, by reputable companies) and both are as safe as the use... In otherwords, it's only as safe as YOU make it!


northfacejmb


Nov 13, 2007, 3:41 PM
Post #7 of 44 (9317 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 234

Re: [USnavy] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've heard that wire gates aren't as safe as solid gates because they can backclip easier. But I've also heard that wire gates are better because the entire gate is one piece. So I'm pretty much torn between the two. Do wire gates backclip easier than solid gates?


reno


Nov 13, 2007, 3:50 PM
Post #8 of 44 (9306 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283

Re: [northfacejmb] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

northfacejmb wrote:
I've heard that wire gates aren't as safe as solid gates because they can backclip easier. But I've also heard that wire gates are better because the entire gate is one piece. So I'm pretty much torn between the two. Do wire gates backclip easier than solid gates?

You've heard wrong. Gate type has nothing to do with back clipping.

I can't think of many, if any at all, reasons to use anything other than wiregate biners.


fancyclaps


Nov 13, 2007, 4:14 PM
Post #9 of 44 (9286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 23, 2005
Posts: 210

Re: [reno] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Because carabiners with keylock noses are, for me, substantially easier to clean and use.

But then again it really comes down to personal preference, I dont mind the extra weight. My Petzl Spirits clip like a dream.

Yeah, carabiners are one thing where there is not significant difference in safety between different styles. If there were, then we would only see one style of carabiner.


reno


Nov 13, 2007, 4:51 PM
Post #10 of 44 (9250 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283

Re: [fancyclaps] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

fancyclaps wrote:
Because carabiners with keylock noses are, for me, substantially easier to clean and use.

DMM Shield. Notch-less wiregate.


Carnage


Nov 13, 2007, 5:33 PM
Post #11 of 44 (9212 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 27, 2007
Posts: 923

Re: [reno] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

reno wrote:
northfacejmb wrote:
I've heard that wire gates aren't as safe as solid gates because they can backclip easier. But I've also heard that wire gates are better because the entire gate is one piece. So I'm pretty much torn between the two. Do wire gates backclip easier than solid gates?

You've heard wrong. Gate type has nothing to do with back clipping.

I can't think of many, if any at all, reasons to use anything other than wiregate biners.

noobs and idiots backclip easier, has nothing to do with the gate type.

when backclipped, bent gate biner (solid or wire gates) unclip easier than straight gate. This however, is easily remedied by not being a noob and getting your belayer to check your clips as you go.

In terms of safest option, id go with solid on the bolt end since these get unclipped from the bolt less easily (see self unclipping biner http://www.climerware.com/unclip.shtml) and straight wire gate on the rope side.

in terms of performance vs. safety, your best bet is prolly straight solid gate on the bolt end (keylock for ease of cleaning) and bent wiregate on the rope side


jt512


Nov 13, 2007, 6:37 PM
Post #12 of 44 (9164 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [reno] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

reno wrote:
fancyclaps wrote:
Because carabiners with keylock noses are, for me, substantially easier to clean and use.

DMM Shield. Notch-less wiregate.

But difficult to clip. Check out the WC Heliums.

Jay


shimanilami


Nov 13, 2007, 6:48 PM
Post #13 of 44 (9147 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043

Re: [USnavy] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

For single pitch sport climbing, there isn't a big difference, IMO.

If I'm doing mult-pitch, however, I like to have some solid gates for the belays. I often clip draws into the bolts, and then clip other items (e.g. tag line, gear, etc.) into the bolt-side 'biner. I've found that solid gates don't get pried open as easily when other 'biners shift around on them.


reno


Nov 13, 2007, 7:50 PM
Post #14 of 44 (9098 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283

Re: [jt512] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
reno wrote:
fancyclaps wrote:
Because carabiners with keylock noses are, for me, substantially easier to clean and use.

DMM Shield. Notch-less wiregate.

But difficult to clip.

If you say so. I've never found them difficult to clip.


bent_gate


Nov 13, 2007, 8:10 PM
Post #15 of 44 (9078 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 1, 2004
Posts: 2620

Re: [reno] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

reno wrote:
jt512 wrote:
reno wrote:
fancyclaps wrote:
Because carabiners with keylock noses are, for me, substantially easier to clean and use.

DMM Shield. Notch-less wiregate.

But difficult to clip.

If you say so. I've never found them difficult to clip.

I have them and find them easier to clip than most other biners. DMM in general always has great gate action. But I guess everyone has different clipping styles.


shockabuku


Nov 13, 2007, 8:14 PM
Post #16 of 44 (9072 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868

Re: [bent_gate] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bent_gate wrote:
reno wrote:
jt512 wrote:
reno wrote:
fancyclaps wrote:
Because carabiners with keylock noses are, for me, substantially easier to clean and use.

DMM Shield. Notch-less wiregate.

But difficult to clip.

If you say so. I've never found them difficult to clip.

I have them and find them easier to clip than most other biners. DMM in general always has great gate action. But I guess everyone has different clipping styles.

I have some also and find them a little problematic to clip with respect to more standard biners. I think the very thin gate profile (with respect to the rope) makes them tend to rotate along the long axis and slip along the rope as opposed to opening the gate.


jt512


Nov 13, 2007, 10:57 PM
Post #17 of 44 (9004 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [shockabuku] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

shockabuku wrote:
bent_gate wrote:
reno wrote:
jt512 wrote:
reno wrote:
fancyclaps wrote:
Because carabiners with keylock noses are, for me, substantially easier to clean and use.

DMM Shield. Notch-less wiregate.

But difficult to clip.

If you say so. I've never found them difficult to clip.

I have them and find them easier to clip than most other biners. DMM in general always has great gate action. But I guess everyone has different clipping styles.

I have some also and find them a little problematic to clip with respect to more standard biners. I think the very thin gate profile (with respect to the rope) makes them tend to rotate along the long axis and slip along the rope as opposed to opening the gate.

Yeah, the thin gate profile combined with the narrow spine makes them prone to twisting in your hand when you clip. In addition, you have to get the rope over the biner's nose, and the biner's nose profile fails to guide the rope into the biner. It's mostly a problem on difficult redpoints, when you want to clip as fast and as smoothly as humanly possible.

Jay


chossmonkey


Nov 13, 2007, 11:05 PM
Post #18 of 44 (9001 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414

Re: [jt512] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
bent_gate wrote:
reno wrote:
jt512 wrote:
reno wrote:
fancyclaps wrote:
Because carabiners with keylock noses are, for me, substantially easier to clean and use.

DMM Shield. Notch-less wiregate.

But difficult to clip.

If you say so. I've never found them difficult to clip.

I have them and find them easier to clip than most other biners. DMM in general always has great gate action. But I guess everyone has different clipping styles.

I have some also and find them a little problematic to clip with respect to more standard biners. I think the very thin gate profile (with respect to the rope) makes them tend to rotate along the long axis and slip along the rope as opposed to opening the gate.

Yeah, the thin gate profile combined with the narrow spine makes them prone to twisting in your hand when you clip. In addition, you have to get the rope over the biner's nose, and the biner's nose profile fails to guide the rope into the biner. It's mostly a problem on difficult redpoints, when you want to clip as fast and as smoothly as humanly possible.

Jay
I can't say I ever really liked the Shields either for the same reasons stated.


wildthing14


Nov 13, 2007, 11:14 PM
Post #19 of 44 (8990 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 21, 2007
Posts: 50

Re: [USnavy] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i have heard similar things, i love the wire gate draws i have(and i have used both kinds) they are lighter than solid gate draws and just as strong, i think wire is the way to go


ja1484


Nov 14, 2007, 12:04 AM
Post #20 of 44 (8965 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 1935

Re: [reno] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

reno wrote:
I can't think of many, if any at all, reasons to use anything other than wiregate biners.


Handling?

I still use barrel-gate biners on the equipment end of all my draws and for racking because I find wires excellent to clip but fiddly to work with my digits. I spend more time fuddling with the wiregates than is worth the (very minor) weight savings.

I can't think of any reasons not to put a wiregate on the rope end of stuff though, other than potentially cost.


sactownclimber


Nov 14, 2007, 12:18 AM
Post #21 of 44 (8952 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 2, 2005
Posts: 216

Re: [jt512] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
reno wrote:
fancyclaps wrote:
Because carabiners with keylock noses are, for me, substantially easier to clean and use.

DMM Shield. Notch-less wiregate.

But difficult to clip. Check out the WC Heliums.

Jay

I'll second JT's endorsement of the Heliums. If only they weren't so damn expensive.


sactownclimber


Nov 14, 2007, 12:20 AM
Post #22 of 44 (8950 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 2, 2005
Posts: 216

Re: [sactownclimber] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Also, I'm not voting due to the fact that neither choice is more safe than the other. Just don't be a dumbass, and they're both safe.


getoutmore


Nov 14, 2007, 5:39 PM
Post #23 of 44 (8860 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 26, 2006
Posts: 74

Re: [USnavy] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Solid gates make more noise when clipping which is important for your belayer when he can't see you make the clip. That is the biggest factor to me for choosing solid over wire gates.


Carnage


Nov 14, 2007, 7:18 PM
Post #24 of 44 (8809 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 27, 2007
Posts: 923

Re: [getoutmore] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

getoutmore wrote:
Solid gates make more noise when clipping which is important for your belayer when he can't see you make the clip. That is the biggest factor to me for choosing solid over wire gates.

this makes me laugh. see if you think the same thing next time you miss a clip, but your partner hears the noise and starts to take in slack.

learn to say "clipping" which means give me slack and "clipped" which means the rope is in the biner, so take up slack.


getoutmore


Nov 14, 2007, 7:36 PM
Post #25 of 44 (8794 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 26, 2006
Posts: 74

Re: [Carnage] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've found intelligent partners who can decipher a missed clip from a successful one by the large amount of slack created by me dropping the rope without it being clipped. It's pretty elementary.

Very little slack=successful clip

Lots of slack = unsuccessful clip

And if they are still confused the "Oh shit, I missed the clip" might be a good hint.


desertwanderer81


Nov 14, 2007, 8:59 PM
Post #26 of 44 (3800 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 5, 2007
Posts: 2272

Re: [getoutmore] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

getoutmore wrote:
I've found intelligent partners who can decipher a missed clip from a successful one by the large amount of slack created by me dropping the rope without it being clipped. It's pretty elementary.

Very little slack=successful clip

Lots of slack = unsuccessful clip

And if they are still confused the "Oh shit, I missed the clip" might be a good hint.

Sounds like a lot more trouble than it's worth.....


Myxomatosis


Nov 14, 2007, 11:30 PM
Post #27 of 44 (3756 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2007
Posts: 1063

Re: [desertwanderer81] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've just got some cheap Trango solid gate ones.... I've never had a problem with them (clipping or coming un-done)... I also don't find a big difference compared to my partners petzel solid/wire ones (except price $25nz vs $35nz)


fearlessclimber


Nov 15, 2007, 3:31 AM
Post #28 of 44 (3736 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 27, 2005
Posts: 474

Re: [shockabuku] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

shockabuku wrote:
bent_gate wrote:
reno wrote:
jt512 wrote:
reno wrote:
fancyclaps wrote:
Because carabiners with keylock noses are, for me, substantially easier to clean and use.

DMM Shield. Notch-less wiregate.

But difficult to clip.

If you say so. I've never found them difficult to clip.

I have them and find them easier to clip than most other biners. DMM in general always has great gate action. But I guess everyone has different clipping styles.

I have some also and find them a little problematic to clip with respect to more standard biners. I think the very thin gate profile (with respect to the rope) makes them tend to rotate along the long axis and slip along the rope as opposed to opening the gate.

I agree with that i found that when clipping them they do tend to rotate on their axis when you try to clip, them. Idk know why they do that but i don't like the way they clip. I just like the petzl spirits.


shockabuku


Nov 15, 2007, 4:51 PM
Post #29 of 44 (3705 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868

Re: [fearlessclimber] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

fearlessclimber wrote:
I just like the petzl spirits.

Yeah, I love those things too. My biner of choice for sport climbing. I have reserved my Shields along with my Heliums (and a few Spirits) for trad climbing where the weight difference might be of more value and clipping doesn't usually have the same touch and go issues.


truello


Nov 15, 2007, 8:10 PM
Post #30 of 44 (3694 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 1, 2006
Posts: 737

Re: [getoutmore] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

getoutmore wrote:
Solid gates make more noise when clipping which is important for your belayer when he can't see you make the clip. That is the biggest factor to me for choosing solid over wire gates.

I think noise is more dependent on brand and age of the biner than it being solid or wire. I have never had a problem hearing someone clip a wiregate, and don't think its enough of a reason to outweigh the advantages a wiregate has.


ltj999


Nov 23, 2007, 6:45 AM
Post #31 of 44 (3619 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2006
Posts: 57

Re: [ja1484] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ja1484 wrote:
Safety doesn't have much to do with what biner you're using so long as they're from a reputable brand.

How you're using them matters much more.

You seem to be falling into a trap that a lot of younger climbers end up in - thinking safety comes from the gear.


this is THE best advice I've ever heard when talking about climbing safety.


kfc6936


Nov 29, 2007, 6:23 PM
Post #32 of 44 (3566 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 7, 2007
Posts: 42

Re: [USnavy] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i prefer wire gates personally there not much weaker if weaker at all and i think there easy to get the rope into the beanerMad


dingus


Nov 29, 2007, 7:37 PM
Post #33 of 44 (3548 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398

Re: [ja1484] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ja1484 wrote:
reno wrote:
I can't think of many, if any at all, reasons to use anything other than wiregate biners.


Handling?

I still use barrel-gate biners on the equipment end of all my draws and for racking because I find wires excellent to clip but fiddly to work with my digits. I spend more time fuddling with the wiregates than is worth the (very minor) weight savings.

Concur. Wire gates on the non-rope end have drawbacks (haha).

DMT


billcoe_


Nov 30, 2007, 3:05 AM
Post #34 of 44 (3486 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694

Re: [ja1484] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ja1484 wrote:
Safety doesn't have much to do with what biner you're using so long as they're from a reputable brand.

How you're using them matters much more.

You seem to be falling into a trap that a lot of younger climbers end up in - thinking safety comes from the gear.

I have to agree with this: but AFTER that is into account: look at the specs. Wild Country Helium wiregates are significantly stronger than many solid gates.

Look at the specs. to answer strength questions. However, feel is something else altogether. IMO Spirits and solid DMMs are THE smoothest clipping.

Your results may vary, so buy quality and make yourself happy no matter what you choose.


jeremy11


Nov 30, 2007, 4:26 AM
Post #35 of 44 (3471 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2004
Posts: 597

Re: [desertwanderer81] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

http://www.omegapac.com/opsh8l.html



sounds like you need some of these, just to be on the safe side.

or get some of these

http://www.omegapac.com/op12s58l.html

then get some 3/8" aircraft cable swedged up and make some super-quickdraws. The cable breaks at 14,400 lbs and the biners at 72 kn



but the point still remains, as already stated, THE GEAR IS ONLY AS SAFE AS THE USER!!!! Read Accidents in North American Mountaineering and see how many are from gear failure that wasn't due to incorrect usage.

personally, I prefer wiregates - they minimize whiplash, but mainly I just like how they clip and the lightweight.


desertwanderer81


Nov 30, 2007, 5:48 AM
Post #36 of 44 (3446 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 5, 2007
Posts: 2272

Re: [jeremy11] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

wtf?


sky7high


Dec 3, 2007, 9:22 PM
Post #37 of 44 (3398 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 15, 2006
Posts: 478

Re: [USnavy] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Wiregates at the rope end prevent gate flutter, which has caused biner breakage lots of times.

I honestly don't know which choice is better for the protection end.


stymingersfink


Dec 8, 2007, 2:22 AM
Post #38 of 44 (3352 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250

Re: [ja1484] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ja1484 wrote:
reno wrote:
I can't think of many, if any at all, reasons to use anything other than wiregate biners.


Handling?

I still use barrel-gate biners on the equipment end of all my draws and for racking because I find wires excellent to clip but fiddly to work with my digits. I spend more time fuddling with the wiregates than is worth the (very minor) weight savings.

I can't think of any reasons not to put a wiregate on the rope end of stuff though, other than potentially cost.
This technique also helps differentiate which biner is more likely to have sharp edges from being scarred on bolt hangers and wires during a fall, which could potentially do some damage to your rope's sheath.

Positron to the gear, hotwire or neutrino to the rope.

Agreed on the notchless wiregate from DMM sentiment. It's not for me.


marvinz


Dec 16, 2007, 7:52 AM
Post #39 of 44 (3243 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 3, 2006
Posts: 201

Re: [sky7high] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sky7high wrote:
Wiregates at the rope end prevent gate flutter, which has caused biner breakage lots of times.

?


jt512


Dec 16, 2007, 8:53 AM
Post #40 of 44 (3241 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [marvinz] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

marvinz wrote:
sky7high wrote:
Wiregates at the rope end prevent gate flutter, which has caused biner breakage lots of times.

?

!


sky7high


Dec 16, 2007, 8:16 PM
Post #41 of 44 (3164 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 15, 2006
Posts: 478

Re: [jt512] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
marvinz wrote:
sky7high wrote:
Wiregates at the rope end prevent gate flutter, which has caused biner breakage lots of times.

?

!

I'm sorry, I cant remember the website. If you don't want to trust me then don't. (By lots of times I mean two or three, but that's two or three more than should happen)
I do recall a test by BD in which the biner's gate fluttered and , although the biner didn't fail, it was badly deformed.


Partner angry


Dec 16, 2007, 8:25 PM
Post #42 of 44 (3162 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405

Re: [sky7high] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There's plenty of pics floating around the net of perfectly acceptable biners that broke, both wire and solid gate.

Pick your poison. I agree with ja123456789 that knowlegde is better than a piece of gear with some minor improvements over another.


roguetrooper


Dec 17, 2007, 2:33 AM
Post #43 of 44 (3135 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 5, 2006
Posts: 26

Re: [sky7high] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Wire gate. I saw video footage of gate flutter. Pretty un-nerving.


(This post was edited by roguetrooper on Dec 17, 2007, 2:35 AM)


dingus


Dec 17, 2007, 12:45 PM
Post #44 of 44 (3075 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398

Re: [sky7high] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sky7high wrote:
jt512 wrote:
marvinz wrote:
sky7high wrote:
Wiregates at the rope end prevent gate flutter, which has caused biner breakage lots of times.

?

!

I'm sorry, I cant remember the website. If you don't want to trust me then don't. (By lots of times I mean two or three, but that's two or three more than should happen)
I do recall a test by BD in which the biner's gate fluttered and , although the biner didn't fail, it was badly deformed.

nevermind

DMT


(This post was edited by dingus on Dec 17, 2007, 12:46 PM)


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Sport Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook