Nov 14, 2007, 8:59 PM
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Re: [getoutmore] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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getoutmore wrote:
I've found intelligent partners who can decipher a missed clip from a successful one by the large amount of slack created by me dropping the rope without it being clipped. It's pretty elementary.
Very little slack=successful clip
Lots of slack = unsuccessful clip
And if they are still confused the "Oh shit, I missed the clip" might be a good hint.
Sounds like a lot more trouble than it's worth.....
Nov 14, 2007, 11:30 PM
Post #27 of 44
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Re: [desertwanderer81] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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I've just got some cheap Trango solid gate ones.... I've never had a problem with them (clipping or coming un-done)... I also don't find a big difference compared to my partners petzel solid/wire ones (except price $25nz vs $35nz)
Nov 15, 2007, 3:31 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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shockabuku wrote:
bent_gate wrote:
reno wrote:
jt512 wrote:
reno wrote:
fancyclaps wrote:
Because carabiners with keylock noses are, for me, substantially easier to clean and use.
DMM Shield. Notch-less wiregate.
But difficult to clip.
If you say so. I've never found them difficult to clip.
I have them and find them easier to clip than most other biners. DMM in general always has great gate action. But I guess everyone has different clipping styles.
I have some also and find them a little problematic to clip with respect to more standard biners. I think the very thin gate profile (with respect to the rope) makes them tend to rotate along the long axis and slip along the rope as opposed to opening the gate.
I agree with that i found that when clipping them they do tend to rotate on their axis when you try to clip, them. Idk know why they do that but i don't like the way they clip. I just like the petzl spirits.
Nov 15, 2007, 4:51 PM
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Re: [fearlessclimber] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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fearlessclimber wrote:
I just like the petzl spirits.
Yeah, I love those things too. My biner of choice for sport climbing. I have reserved my Shields along with my Heliums (and a few Spirits) for trad climbing where the weight difference might be of more value and clipping doesn't usually have the same touch and go issues.
Nov 15, 2007, 8:10 PM
Post #30 of 44
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Re: [getoutmore] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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getoutmore wrote:
Solid gates make more noise when clipping which is important for your belayer when he can't see you make the clip. That is the biggest factor to me for choosing solid over wire gates.
I think noise is more dependent on brand and age of the biner than it being solid or wire. I have never had a problem hearing someone clip a wiregate, and don't think its enough of a reason to outweigh the advantages a wiregate has.
Nov 29, 2007, 7:37 PM
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Re: [ja1484] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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ja1484 wrote:
reno wrote:
I can't think of many, if any at all, reasons to use anything other than wiregate biners.
Handling?
I still use barrel-gate biners on the equipment end of all my draws and for racking because I find wires excellent to clip but fiddly to work with my digits. I spend more time fuddling with the wiregates than is worth the (very minor) weight savings.
Concur. Wire gates on the non-rope end have drawbacks (haha).
Nov 30, 2007, 3:05 AM
Post #34 of 44
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Re: [ja1484] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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ja1484 wrote:
Safety doesn't have much to do with what biner you're using so long as they're from a reputable brand.
How you're using them matters much more.
You seem to be falling into a trap that a lot of younger climbers end up in - thinking safety comes from the gear.
I have to agree with this: but AFTER that is into account: look at the specs. Wild Country Helium wiregates are significantly stronger than many solid gates.
Look at the specs. to answer strength questions. However, feel is something else altogether. IMO Spirits and solid DMMs are THE smoothest clipping.
Your results may vary, so buy quality and make yourself happy no matter what you choose.
then get some 3/8" aircraft cable swedged up and make some super-quickdraws. The cable breaks at 14,400 lbs and the biners at 72 kn
but the point still remains, as already stated, THE GEAR IS ONLY AS SAFE AS THE USER!!!! Read Accidents in North American Mountaineering and see how many are from gear failure that wasn't due to incorrect usage.
personally, I prefer wiregates - they minimize whiplash, but mainly I just like how they clip and the lightweight.
Dec 8, 2007, 2:22 AM
Post #38 of 44
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Re: [ja1484] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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ja1484 wrote:
reno wrote:
I can't think of many, if any at all, reasons to use anything other than wiregate biners.
Handling?
I still use barrel-gate biners on the equipment end of all my draws and for racking because I find wires excellent to clip but fiddly to work with my digits. I spend more time fuddling with the wiregates than is worth the (very minor) weight savings.
I can't think of any reasons not to put a wiregate on the rope end of stuff though, other than potentially cost.
This technique also helps differentiate which biner is more likely to have sharp edges from being scarred on bolt hangers and wires during a fall, which could potentially do some damage to your rope's sheath.
Positron to the gear, hotwire or neutrino to the rope.
Agreed on the notchless wiregate from DMM sentiment. It's not for me.
Dec 16, 2007, 8:16 PM
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Re: [jt512] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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jt512 wrote:
marvinz wrote:
sky7high wrote:
Wiregates at the rope end prevent gate flutter, which has caused biner breakage lots of times.
?
!
I'm sorry, I cant remember the website. If you don't want to trust me then don't. (By lots of times I mean two or three, but that's two or three more than should happen) I do recall a test by BD in which the biner's gate fluttered and , although the biner didn't fail, it was badly deformed.
Dec 17, 2007, 12:45 PM
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Re: [sky7high] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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sky7high wrote:
jt512 wrote:
marvinz wrote:
sky7high wrote:
Wiregates at the rope end prevent gate flutter, which has caused biner breakage lots of times.
?
!
I'm sorry, I cant remember the website. If you don't want to trust me then don't. (By lots of times I mean two or three, but that's two or three more than should happen) I do recall a test by BD in which the biner's gate fluttered and , although the biner didn't fail, it was badly deformed.
nevermind
DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Dec 17, 2007, 12:46 PM)
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