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Gotta work on my dismount...
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Partner rrrADAM


Jun 24, 2004, 6:48 PM
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Gotta work on my dismount...
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5 years climbing, and I always prided myself on never having any more than a scrape climbing... And that even after taking a couple 40+ footers on small Trad gear. Unfortunately, a moment of complacency while doing some easy bouldering will most likely end up with some surgery required to reattach my deltoid ligamant on my right ankle...


Went to Pirate's Cove in Newport Beach to boulder a bit on the beach. Climbed for a couple hours, topping out on some and working other harder problems. Got used to falling off into the nice soft sand. While a friend was shoing up to climb, I checked out what I thought would be an easy problem for him. Used to the nice soft sand, I failed to look below when I jumped off... Feet were only about 4 feet up... Landed badly on an unanticipated boulder at the base...

SNAP !!! My wife heard it from 25 feet away, and others heard it from the other side of the cove about 70 feet away... Looked down at my right ankle and foot, which was now about 45 degrees in the wrong direction... Yanked down and in on it to straighten it out, as it didn't look right (Thank God shock is instant, to relieve the pain !!!)... Thanx to the locals who carried my old ass out to be whisked away to the emergency room.

Waiting at the hospital the shock wore off, ankle approaching the size of a softball, throbbing pain despite my keeping it elevated... "An hour wait", they say... "I need drugs please !!!", I say.

Apparently none of the bones broke (6 gallons of milk a week makes strong bones I suppose)... There are a few chips where bones mashed together as the ankle dislocated and the deltoid ligamant tore... Doc says I set it back in place at the beach... Left splinted to seek out an Orthopedic Surgion... Have appointment with him in a couple hours, will post again when I know weather I need surgery to reattach it.



Lesson learned... Complacency is still the thing that will get us. If I'd have looked down, I could have easily cleared the boulder.

And I was all packed and ready to go to Yosemite for a week leaving today to hook up with friends... And I still have 1 1/2 months off this summer, that was gonna be spent climbing full time. Looks like I'm gonna just get to work the upper body campussing and stuff now, or just be belay b!tch. :(


Maybe I can fly to Canada and rehab with PTPP. :lol:


curt


Jun 24, 2004, 7:25 PM
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Geez, that's terrible Adam. I hope you recover quickly. I remember bouldering with Corey Chatwin (mutant here at RC.com) a couple years ago and he did a very similar thing with a real short (like 2 feet off-the-ground) fall. Corey's ankle was just as you described yours--going off at a 45 degree angle in the wrong direction. He also grabbed it and put the ankle back where it belonged. Sounds like he was a bit luckier than you though because he didn't tear anything that required surgery. Good luck with your recovery.

Curt


sixter


Jun 24, 2004, 7:30 PM
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Dude, bummer about the ankle. I wish you a speedy recovery.

I can sorta relate. My worst climbing injury to date has been a "sprined" ankle. Similar type occurance. I was down climbing from a short, easy problem I had just sent, hopped off when two feet or so off the ground, my right foot landed with the ball on a slab of rock, and the heel was totally unsupported. Instant pain. It didn't feel bad, so my partner and I searched out several more boulders, and climbed a few more problems. I was walking funny for weeks. I learned the same less you did, never take short hops off anything for granted, scope out the landing.


Partner calamity_chk


Jun 24, 2004, 7:32 PM
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holy shit, adam. i'm so sorry to hear about that. maybe we should start a user group for those of us that are / have been gimpified. ;)

hugs and best wishes,
amber


csproul


Jun 24, 2004, 8:18 PM
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6 gallons of milk a week :shock: ????Are you serious?


gds


Jun 24, 2004, 8:22 PM
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bad luck Adam. Wishing for a speedy and full recovery.


overlord


Jun 24, 2004, 9:33 PM
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man, you drink more milk than i. i average about 6-8galons per week.

and you know what, i have jet to breake a bone (knocks on wood). i had dislocated things and twisted ankles and stuff, but never broken anything (knocks again).

hope you recover soon.


Partner philbox
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Jun 24, 2004, 10:21 PM
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Oooooowwwwww, dude that hurts particularly so close to you heading in to the valley.


Partner coldclimb


Jun 24, 2004, 10:29 PM
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Dang, and I was bummed when I sprained my ankle last week. :( Good luck recovering fast man!


Partner rrrADAM


Jun 24, 2004, 10:35 PM
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Back from the Ortho... Have cast, b ut he's concerned since the swelling is so severe, and doesn't seem to match the injury... I'm gonna have to get an MRI so he can see the exctent of the damage... He says I may have torn up much more than just one ligamant... Will know more after then, but they said 24-48 hours before I get the MRI... He also said the bone chips are where the ligamant tore away, as some of the ligamamnt tears, and some of the bone is actually ripped off where it was attached.

I'm just mad at myself... If I'd just have looked before I lept, I'd be in Yosemite right now, instead of being an invalid for a while. :(



Thanx for all the well wishes everyone... Anyone need a belay b!tch ??? :wink:


mauriceb


Jun 24, 2004, 10:51 PM
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Best wishes on a speedy recovery. On the bright side, you can hang with JC and regale him with stories of yester year.

maurice


climbingmat


Jun 24, 2004, 10:53 PM
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Hi Adam....

I so sorry for you. That sounds horrible!

But keep on climbing!

A 5.6 is getting at least a 5.12 --- with one leg!

But maybe toprope with a soft landing.

Best wishes.

Matthias.

Maybe we'll meet at the gym.


Partner coldclimb


Jun 24, 2004, 10:55 PM
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In reply to:
Thanx for all the well wishes everyone... Anyone need a belay b!tch ??? :wink:

Tempting. Ever been to Alaska? ;) :lol: :lol:


Partner rrrADAM


Jun 24, 2004, 10:56 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Thanx for all the well wishes everyone... Anyone need a belay b!tch ??? :wink:

Tempting. Ever been to Alaska? ;) :lol: :lol:


This time of year ??? Would I be a belay b!tch or misquito food ??? :roll:


climbs4fun
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Jun 24, 2004, 10:58 PM
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Damn Adam. Sending you good juju. Hopefully you recover quickly!


hangerlessbolt


Jun 24, 2004, 11:04 PM
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In reply to:
I'm just mad at myself... If I'd just have looked before I lept, I'd be in Yosemite right now, instead of being an invalid for a while. :(

And if my aunt had a d*ck...she'd be my uncle

It reminds me of a scripture I once read...when Christ called out

"My Father, why hast thou foresaken me"

and god replied

"Sh*t happens"

(That should cheer you up!! And get me in a lot of trouble with the Big Guy!)

Wishing you a speedy recovery...and maybe a trip to Oregon...whichever comes first.

Take care brutha


fredo


Jun 24, 2004, 11:06 PM
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Dude...Broke my ankle last August. Hang tough Bro..healing is important. You wanna be walking when your 50. FYI I am still payin off my MRI. I have insurance and with my deductable still owed about $400. Get a second opinion, it is a lot of cash for the docs just to say "yep, it's this or that" Once youo get out of your plaster work on flexability and strnegth. One thing I realized was that yoou can work on leg strength while your ankle is imobile. Get a good PT and keep up with it.

fred :D


beth23


Jun 25, 2004, 12:02 AM
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So sorry to hear Adam. You're still welcome to join me in the valley....god knows I always need a good, encouraging belayer when I actually get my ass on leads so I'd happily accept your belay bitch ability :wink: . We can even do something around Church Bowl so there's no approach issues.

But take heart and ALWAYS assume the best. Positive energy goes a long long way to speedy healing. I recently messed up my left leg right before a long climbing trip and constant ice, rest, and Arnica (yes, that stuff is MAGIC! Take the oral and apply the gel and it goes a HUGE way towards reducing swelling) in the first 48 hours after the injury really went a long way to a remarkably quick recovery for me. But the whole time I kept a super positive attitude. I'm sure you will too (and ITA on the milk, I drink tons of the stuff albeit not as much as you).

Sending out good vibes to you brutha.....if you still wanna join me in the valley, I'd love to have you give me a catch anytime.


i.karen
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Jun 25, 2004, 1:39 AM
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Adam,

You can be my beLAY B!tch!!! :D


He literally asked the surgeon if a friend could make him a shoe to fit, could he still climb, no bouldering, he said, just roped climbs!!! I think he thought Adam was CRAZY!!!!!

When I was pregnant I hated watching everyone else climb!!

I got a belayer and a babysitter, now I just got to figure out how he can feed Justice!!! :D :D :D


jajohnst


Jun 25, 2004, 2:26 AM
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Sorry to hear of your mishap and hope your a fast healer. It never ceases to amaze me how fast things can go down hill. But time will pass and you'll be climbing again in no time. :)


josephine


Jun 25, 2004, 2:48 PM
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OMG Adam! :(
So sorry to hear about this
Wishing for a speedy recovery


flipnfall


Jun 25, 2004, 2:56 PM
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Sorry to hear that. Hope you recover quickly. It passes really fast. Had a busted up ankle from ice fishing and was back to climbing before I knew it. When I was 15 had steel rods put in my back and a year later I was climbing.

GT


boulderman


Jun 25, 2004, 3:06 PM
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I could start posting a bunch of trolls again and keep you busy chasing me around the site and sending me nasty PM's! :lol:

Hope you heal fast! Maybe you could build a long campus board w/ crimps and slopers. Then rig up an auto belay system so you don't ever fall. You may come out with hands of steel and bouldering two grades harder in 6 months!


iltripp


Jun 25, 2004, 3:06 PM
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In reply to:
maybe we should start a user group for those of us that are / have been gimpified. ;)

I second that...

Tough shite man. Hope you get better soon. I feel your pain, cuz I'm still nursing an injury from an equally ridiculous accident. Fell 4 feet buildering when a brick broke apart, and fractured my wrist. That was over 2 months ago and I still have to wait a while to get the cast off.


tomclimbs


Jun 25, 2004, 3:07 PM
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Sorry to hear about the injury. I hope you heel fast - milk helps.
Just to show you that bouldering is dangerous. 99% of the time you a garaunteed to hit the ground. Ouch!!!


bumblie


Jun 25, 2004, 3:17 PM
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now I just got to figure out how he can feed Justice!!! :D :D :D

Breast pump. :D


hangerlessbolt


Jun 25, 2004, 5:50 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
now I just got to figure out how he can feed Justice!!! :D :D :D

Breast pump. :D

Yeah, kinda like when adult birds feed baby birds...

Adam could...uh, nevermind

~T would gladly feed Justice



[subliminal]come to oregon...come to oregon...come to oregon[/subliminal]


rmiller


Jun 25, 2004, 8:19 PM
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You know, if you weren't so damn fat Adam, your ankle would be fine! Or you could have just manned up and sent the problem. Just remeber to throw your change purse down to break the fall next time, ok?


Partner rrrADAM


Jun 25, 2004, 8:35 PM
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In reply to:
You know, if you weren't so damn fat Adam, your ankle would be fine! Or you could have just manned up and sent the problem. Just remeber to throw your change purse down to break the fall next time, ok?


There's some of the slander I'm so used to from my friends and family... Robert broke me off some also. :D

Karen actually offered to go get me a purse or a dress on one of the climbs I was having trouble with.


I'll tie in with you again soon Ronnie, and you'd better anchor in, else I'll pull you up to the first piece if I fall. :lol:


jgill


Jun 25, 2004, 8:48 PM
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So sorry to hear of your mishap, Adam. Hope you can get it patched up right. I know it's frustrating (and painful), but even if you are off the rock for a year, ten years from now, as you're sailing up 5.12s, you'll think it was worth the properly paced recuperation. As others have suggested, make this an opportunity to further develop your arm, back, shoulder, and finger strengths (but don't overdo it). Should I send you a mathematics text to keep your mind occupied when you're not at work? :(


clymber


Jun 25, 2004, 9:02 PM
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sounds like a new fad for people to screw up their foot. adam if you want you can comeeast and belay me in the gunks. the only approach ive ever seen that was easier was potash road in utah

good luck with the recovery hope all goes well and i would be more then willing to help you out anyway if i were closer to you 2..


Partner tim


Jun 25, 2004, 9:06 PM
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In reply to:
Adam,

You can be my beLAY B!tch!!! :D


He literally asked the surgeon if a friend could make him a shoe to fit, could he still climb, no bouldering, he said, just roped climbs!!! I think he thought Adam was CRAZY!!!!!

When I was pregnant I hated watching everyone else climb!!

I got a belayer and a babysitter, now I just got to figure out how he can feed Justice!!! :D :D :D

Heh. I hadn't thought about this. How poetic ;-)

Get better soon, sportclimber :-). You're going to be a beast on the steep stuff after all the campusing you'll be doing :-D


Partner rrrADAM


Jun 25, 2004, 9:22 PM
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So sorry to hear of your mishap, Adam. Hope you can get it patched up right. I know it's frustrating (and painful), but even if you are off the rock for a year, ten years from now, as you're sailing up 5.12s, you'll think it was worth the properly paced recuperation. As others have suggested, make this an opportunity to further develop your arm, back, shoulder, and finger strengths (but don't overdo it). Should I send you a mathematics text to keep your mind occupied when you're not at work? :(


If they are novel math probblems, yes...

[text]
Example:


_
.9<>1 Correct ??? But:
_
Let x=.9 <--------
|
Multiply by 10: |
_ |
10x=9.9 |
|
Subtract x: |
_ |
10x=9.9 |
_ |
-x=-.9 |
______ |
|
9x=9 |
|
Divide by 9: |
|
x=1 ---------------


or
_
1/3=.3

Multiply by 3:
_
1=.9

But:
_
1<>.9


Note: _
<> = Not equal to and .x = repeating decimal.
[/text]


Novel mathmatical things like this are fun.


Partner rrrADAM


Jun 25, 2004, 9:29 PM
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In reply to:
So sorry to hear of your mishap, Adam. Hope you can get it patched up right. I know it's frustrating (and painful), but even if you are off the rock for a year, ten years from now, as you're sailing up 5.12s, you'll think it was worth the properly paced recuperation. As others have suggested, make this an opportunity to further develop your arm, back, shoulder, and finger strengths (but don't overdo it). Should I send you a mathematics text to keep your mind occupied when you're not at work? :(


Actually John... If you have novelties or puzzlers like this, yes:


Code
 _ 
.9<>1 Correct ???

But:
_
.3=1/3

Multiply by 3:
_
.9=1

But, they are NOT equal.


I tried to show this algerbraically all with decimals, as it shows much better that way, but the repeating decimal bar doesn't stay in the correct spot to show it in the thread, so I had to do it with fractions instead.


pbjosh


Jun 25, 2004, 9:40 PM
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.3 repeating no more equals 1/3 than .9 repeating equals 1


Partner rrrADAM


Jun 25, 2004, 9:53 PM
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In reply to:
.3 repeating no more equals 1/3 than .9 repeating equals 1

Not really correct... Hence the reason why the algebraic expression of this works best with all decimals instead of mixing decimals and fractions.


jgill


Jun 26, 2004, 2:58 AM
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x = .33333 . . .
10x = 3.33333 . . .
10x - x = 3 hence 9x = 3 or x = 1/ 3.

etc. :shock:

whoops! typo :oops:


jakedatc


Jun 26, 2004, 4:16 AM
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Yaa.. get better adam.. post up those Xrays and mri's if you get them :) inquring athletic trainers want to know 8^)

a few months ago one of our friends sprained his ankle on whitehorse.. he's an ER nurse so the doc asked him if he'd like to see the Xrays (the tech already told him it looked ok) so he said sure lets see it.. doc pulls up a film of a Tibia spiral fracture and watched his jaw drop.. then went JK we're making sure you're really a nurse. beware the docs with a sense of humor!

take it easy and enjoy the extra time with the kiddo
jake


boku


Jun 26, 2004, 5:17 AM
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In reply to:
.3 repeating no more equals 1/3 than .9 repeating equals 1

I've heard quantum physicists say that 2+2 can equal 5, but only for extremely large values of 2...


ryanpfleger


Jun 26, 2004, 5:24 AM
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In reply to:
doc pulls up a film of a Tibia spiral fracture and watched his jaw drop..

I spiral fractured a bone in my hand about 8 years ago... now my middle finger on my right hand is the same length as my ring finger (on my unbroken hand its about a half inch longer). Seriously took about 2 years for my hand not to ache when climbing, and about 4 years for my right hand finger strength to catch back up to me left. Now my right hand is stronger again.

Good luck on healing Adam, I had am still recovering from some torn ligaments in my ankle, its taking a long fecking time. I can climb now, but no risky bouldering for me. My ankle is still fat 5 months later and it aches in the mornings and is weak and what not.


areyoumydude


Jun 27, 2004, 2:23 AM
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Best wishes bro. I know what it's like. Good luck.

Peace,

Larry


oudinardin


Jun 27, 2004, 2:41 AM
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Sorry to here about that adam. Make sure you get a few opinions if in need of surgery. Not the same but very painful, I have 3 labral tears in my shoulder from my 15+ years of climbing. I had the arthrogram and mri and they are very visible. Some mri's give false positives so seek out more than one ortho. Having the surgery July 12th. Yes, I understand this is different but I do understand where you are coming from. Work on the rehab etc. but don't do too much. You have plenty of time to get back on the rock. Good luck and get well soon.


P.S. I will do a full write up in the Injuries and Accidents section on this and other shoulder issues from diagnosis, treatment, and rehab. Too many questions not enough answers for me. So you have'nt heard the last of Oud. Be safe out there.

edited 2 times for grammer etc.


dutyje


Jun 27, 2004, 4:25 AM
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man, you drink more milk than i. i average about 6-8galons per week.

and you know what, i have jet to breake a bone (knocks on wood). i had dislocated things and twisted ankles and stuff, but never broken anything (knocks again).

hope you recover soon.


Man, with that kind of milk intake, y'all gonna have some golfball-sized kidney stones! And you thought you were in pain before!

Seriously, rrrAdam, that sucks. I wish you a speedy recovery and a safe return to the rock.


Partner rrrADAM


Jun 27, 2004, 6:18 PM
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John, you get the pic... I was doing it this way:


x=.999...
10x=9.999...
10x-x=9.999...-.999...
9x/9=9/9
x=1


ipsofacto


Jun 27, 2004, 8:11 PM
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23456789


mattdog


Jun 28, 2004, 2:06 AM
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In reply to:
I thought that .999 was an infinite geometric series that converges to one: Sigma ar^(n-1) as n ranges from 1 to infinity = a + ar + ar^2...= a/(1-r) where absolute value r <1.

http://images.planetmath.org/...s/1188/l2h/img10.png=http://images.planetmath.org/...s/1188/l2h/img12.png

It depends on how you interpret it, actually. If you're an engineer, mathematician, or computer scientist, .999... is 1, and is treated as one, because it reduces to 1.

If you're a philospher, its the expression itself which has meaning. Once it is reduced, the intertpretation becomes finite. Philosphers don't like easy answers. ;)


roughster


Jun 28, 2004, 2:08 AM
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Thats sucks adam :( Hope it heals up fast for you!


mattdog


Jun 28, 2004, 2:09 AM
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Oh, and Adam, sorry about your ankle. Wish I could have done something to stop it. Get better soon, and keep your chi properly flowing. ;) Don't bottle it up!


katydid


Jun 28, 2004, 7:09 PM
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Oh, man, Adam that sucks. Here's to a speedy recovery.

And stop that. It's my job around here to get hurt. ;)

k.


nikegirl


Jun 28, 2004, 9:00 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
now I just got to figure out how he can feed Justice!!! :D :D :D

Breast pump. :D

Yeah, kinda like when adult birds feed baby birds...

Adam could...uh, nevermind

~T would gladly feed Justice



[subliminal]come to oregon...come to oregon...come to oregon[/subliminal]


now, that's funny !!!

DEFINITLY!!

COME TO OREGON!!!!!!!


yeah baaaaaaby!!

sorry about the injury. :(

so sucks....just no word to make it any better.

:(

hugs to you all.
~T


nikegirl


Jun 28, 2004, 9:01 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
now I just got to figure out how he can feed Justice!!! :D :D :D

Breast pump. :D

Yeah, kinda like when adult birds feed baby birds...

Adam could...uh, nevermind

~T would gladly feed Justice



[subliminal]come to oregon...come to oregon...come to oregon[/subliminal]


now, that's funny !!!

DEFINITLY!!

COME TO OREGON!!!!!!!


yeah baaaaaaby!!

sorry about the injury. :(

so sucks....just no word to make it any better.

:(

hugs to you all.
~T


nikegirl


Jun 28, 2004, 9:04 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
now I just got to figure out how he can feed Justice!!! :D :D :D

Breast pump. :D

Yeah, kinda like when adult birds feed baby birds...

Adam could...uh, nevermind

~T would gladly feed Justice



[subliminal]come to oregon...come to oregon...come to oregon[/subliminal]


now, that's funny !!!

DEFINITLY!!

COME TO OREGON!!!!!!!


yeah baaaaaaby!!

sorry about the injury. :(

so sucks....just no word to make it any better.

:(

hugs to you all.
~T


Partner rrrADAM


Jun 29, 2004, 5:45 PM
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^^^ Must be the drugs I'm on, as I'm seeing triple. ^^^


Partner philbox
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Jun 29, 2004, 11:37 PM
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Those triple posts have happened to me to over the last few days, that and posts being set out of order. Anyway I deleted the two extras so all is well now.


Partner rrrADAM


Jul 9, 2004, 6:03 PM
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Results of the MRI (not that I understand it):
In reply to:
There is a focal hypertrophy and abnormal signal in the tibialis posterior tendon at the level of the mortise joint, consistent with a type 1 partial tear. The other extensor and flexor tendons of the ankle are intact. There is a discontinuity of the anterior talafibular and deltoid ligaments with edema in their expected locations. A round increased T2-weighted signal is identified in the inferomedial superior talar neck and anterolateral portion of the talar dome as well as in the juxtaarticular aspect of the calcaneus and posterior aspect of its articular surface of the subtalar joint as well as in the calcaneal neck. The Achilles tendon and plantar aponeurosis are intact. Small anterior and posterior joint effusions of the tbiotalar joint and small posterior subtalar joint effusion. Increased T2-weighted signal is seen in the sinus tarsi but the fibers within are well defined on T1-weighted images suggesting that this is within normal limits. No evidence of linear fracture.

So the doc said that I tore the hell out of the ligaments on both sides of my ankle, and tore a tendon on the inside. He said he could operate and reattach the stuff, but he suggests not cutting if its not immediately necessary. He suggested recasting it for another 3 weeks, then some PT, and I should be 80% stable by mid August (when I gotta go back to work). More PT should strengthen it more. If not, he can always operate later.

My worry... I am already bow legged and pidgeon toed, so I am very prone to rolling my ankles as it is, so with less stability on the sideways motions of my ankle, a simple roll could put me out for a while. Also worried about the stresses on the ankle when I'm crack climbing, as those nise secure feet require me to torque my ankle.


Now if I can just do as I'm told, and not re-injur it, but I'm a bit of a knucklehead... Tried wrapping it in a heavy duty trash bag with duct tape (even shaved between the knee and cast to get a good seal) to go swimming at a party, but it didn't work, it got soaked, that cast was replaced... At the climbing gym, I can still climb many .10s, and even lead the roof, all with one leg, so I am working my upper body, but it's kinda hard to "pogo" some of the routes where a right foot is needed. Can put pressure on the toes straight down, so I tried using it once last Tuesday, but it was out to the side a bit, and I felt the sharp pain of the deltoid saying "NO !!!". :?


flashsixteen


Jul 9, 2004, 6:35 PM
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See it was all good until they said this ...

In reply to:
A round increased T2-weighted signal is identified in the inferomedial superior talar neck and anterolateral portion of the talar dome as well as in the juxtaarticular aspect of the calcaneus and posterior aspect of its articular surface of the subtalar joint as well as in the calcaneal neck

Now they are just trying to sound smart. I would expect to see this guy at the crag sport climbing with his shirt off, cut off shorts, talking to the girls with a beer in his hand, giving beta on the 5.12b, but climbing the 5.8 because (whisper) "my partner isn't very good."

With that said, I partially tore my MCL. You want to skip the recovery and PT because you seem to be okay, but now I can't sit Indian style with my tore leg on the inside. Take it easy, you have a lot of time to still climb, make sure you go back fully recovered. I am not a doctor, nor familiar with your injury, but I would go with the surgery to make sure everything is all good. Good luck on your recovery.


billcoe_


Jul 9, 2004, 7:52 PM
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In reply to:
Also worried about the stresses on the ankle when I'm crack climbing, as those nise secure feet require me to torque my ankle.


Now if I can just do as I'm told, and not re-injur it, but I'm a bit of a knucklehead... Tried wrapping it in a heavy duty trash bag with duct tape (even shaved between the knee and cast to get a good seal) to go swimming at a party, but it didn't work, it got soaked, that cast was replaced... At the climbing gym, I can still climb many .10s, and even lead the roof, all with one leg, so I am working my upper body, but it's kinda hard to "pogo" some of the routes where a right foot is needed. Can put pressure on the toes straight down, so I tried using it once last Tuesday, but it was out to the side a bit, and I felt the sharp pain of the deltoid saying "NO !!!". :?


So Adam ....what are we talking about here exactly? Well, let me paraphrase for ya. I (Bill) am not outclimbing you on the steeps and roofs yet, however, it's a close horserace on cracks and I may now be able to outclimb you on some specific routes.

For a time anyway................

Seriously, last year I pulled a rock and it broke my foot. I would rather (and I told folks this at the time) BREAK my foot every year than rip the shit out of the ligaments, soft tissue and tendons. Which is what it sounds like you did Adam. The soft tissue takes longer to heal, and the pain is usually greater and lasts longer (IMO). You sound like you might need to drop down a gear so as not to tweak it more. Of course that's entirely your call. I empathise with your desire to stay in condition the best you can.

Bottom line, you have my sympathy. Like everyone, wish you well on the recovery. Sounds like you have plenty of good medical advise already.


jakedatc


Jul 9, 2004, 11:32 PM
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Yea... did some crazy tearing on both sides.. that i get... all that T2 blah blah crap i have never heard of before so it's your guess to what that all means

do what they say.. try not to screw with it until you're done with PT in aug and see how it goes.. if you're still climbing 10's with one foot then hey go for it.. just dont cheat and use the other foot no matter what.. take the fall/hang and save yourself the pain.. sounds like you got a doc that knows his stuff.. some would just be like it's all screwed up lets get cutting

i'm sure ya looked good with the shaved legs tho ;) they sell cast cover things to make that process alot easier than you made it but then again ur a traddie you like to be creative and if duct tape is involved the more the better

good luck
jake


jello


Jul 10, 2004, 12:59 AM
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rrradam your a stud. I can't believe it happened at pirates cove of all places. Feel better brotha!


jiadar


Jul 13, 2004, 3:53 AM
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Hey Adam
Sorry to hear about what happened. Exactly the same thing happened to me, April 12 this year.. bouldering a easy problem with my feet 4" off the ground. After a long day I was getting pumped as my friend gave me beta. I said I'm jumping off... onto a big misty crash pad, which was just so sloped that I rolled my ankle... doing exactly what you did. Pulled off 2 ligaments and with one came a piece of bone. 3rd time I've done this on my right ankle and have 2 bone fragments floating around.

This was a Very Good thing though. Because it gave me time to decide what I wanted to do with my life. I decided to get out of New Orleans, 8 hours away from the nearest crag, and move to San Francisco. I devoted the next 2 months to that, and in June, as soon as I could walk without crutches, I moved.

Now I'm still in Rehab, but I'm in San Francisco! Been to the valley, Toulumne, and many crags in the Bay Area. Even if I can only climb easy TR until my ankle gets better, I'm looking forward to the good stuff that lies ahead.

So do something positive while you're in rehab, good luck to you and you'l be back to it soon enough.


kachoong


Jul 13, 2004, 4:15 AM
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Hi Adam, good luck with your recovery. Do as much as you can not to re-injure or tweak anything. Better to keep the recovery as short as possible for a silly mistake in the meantime. All the best.
I tore the crap out of my right outside 'whatever' ligament on the right foot in June 2002, playing beach volleyball!!! I touched rock again in early september and by late September I was climbing fairly strong again. I avoided cracks for a while after that though.
Take care

....Dave


mike


Jul 13, 2004, 12:31 PM
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Back from the Ortho... Have cast, b ut he's concerned since the swelling is so severe, and doesn't seem to match the injury... I'm gonna have to get an MRI so he can see the exctent of the damage... He says I may have torn up much more than just one ligamant... Will know more after then, but they said 24-48 hours before I get the MRI... He also said the bone chips are where the ligamant tore away, as some of the ligamamnt tears, and some of the bone is actually ripped off where it was attached.

I'm just mad at myself... If I'd just have looked before I lept, I'd be in Yosemite right now, instead of being an invalid for a while. :(



Thanx for all the well wishes everyone... Anyone need a belay b!tch ??? :wink:

Sounds like the injury I got when I fell and my foot didn't come out of the crack until I inverted. Ligament tore away taking the bone with it, plus deep tendon injury. You might remember the nasty pic posted in community. I cannot emphasize enough to do the rehab exercises and not climb on the thing until you have regained stabilty. When you get to where you can put weight on it again, you will find that you can balance maybe two seconds standing on that foot, the exercises will help regain stability. I didn't pay attention to my own advice and still have limited range of motion and the ankle is permanently huge.


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