|
ticklistjunkie
Apr 29, 2007, 12:37 PM
Post #1 of 53
(7891 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 24, 2006
Posts: 10
|
What is the best 5.10 overhanging jug hall in America?
|
|
|
|
|
rhythm164
Apr 29, 2007, 2:25 PM
Post #2 of 53
(7855 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 964
|
The Nose, it's somewhere in California, can't remember where...
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Apr 29, 2007, 11:44 PM
Post #5 of 53
(7730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
Peer Pressure 10d First sport route at Rumney.. freaking classic most of the route(Underdog) isnt a jug haul per say but this is one of the coolest jugs at rumney
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Apr 29, 2007, 11:51 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Apr 30, 2007, 12:03 AM
Post #6 of 53
(7704 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
|
Best 5.10 jug haul @ rumny Is Armed and Dangerous. Underdog is pretty darn good too. Wiamea is pretty juggy too.....
|
|
|
|
|
unrooted
Apr 30, 2007, 12:54 AM
Post #7 of 53
(7646 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 13, 2003
Posts: 840
|
Check out American Fork, utah.
|
|
|
|
|
stevej
Apr 30, 2007, 1:02 AM
Post #8 of 53
(7636 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 23, 2003
Posts: 117
|
Aren't all 5.10's basically jug hauls? Seriously tho, the best and most fun 5.10 jug haul I have ever done is at the Pit in Arizona. It is called "Mr. Slate" rated 5.10b.
|
|
|
|
|
phylp
Apr 30, 2007, 1:10 AM
Post #9 of 53
(7626 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2001
Posts: 175
|
There is a 140' 16 bolt route called Redtail in City of Rocks Idaho that is great. One move of 11.a down low but then the rest is beautiful juggy 5.10. In the Owen's River Gorge, Blood Sugar Sex Magik is 10.d*****, and I recall it being mostly juggy. 16 bolts/130' At the Dike Wall in Mammoth, there's a juggy route called Cromagnon 10.a*****. So much fun! All of the above slightly overhanging.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Apr 30, 2007, 5:00 AM
Post #10 of 53
(7543 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
tradmanclimbs wrote: Best 5.10 jug haul @ rumny Is Armed and Dangerous. Underdog is pretty darn good too. Wiamea is pretty juggy too..... armed and dangerous is in my top 5 there but not my favorite.. though i'm glad mark extended the top to add more jug pulling. i don't consider waimea a jug haul for a 10.. i consider jugs like sinker "OMG" holds .. super positive yes. jugs.. nah Masterpieces is up there.. 10a steep fest.. i'd say centerpiece too but that shut me down in a year of anti-endurance so i'm bitter Juan Valdez is like 5.8 jugs if you can crack the starting boulder problem
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Apr 30, 2007, 5:35 AM
Post #11 of 53
(7516 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
stevej wrote: Aren't all 5.10's basically jug hauls? Seriously tho, the best and most fun 5.10 jug haul I have ever done is at the Pit in Arizona. It is called "Mr. Slate" rated 5.10b. I don't even like sport climbing all that much--but, Mr. Slate is an outstanding climb for the grade. Curt
|
|
|
|
|
colemanizzle
May 1, 2007, 1:53 AM
Post #12 of 53
(7365 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2005
Posts: 36
|
It is a bit far away from you, but most people in So Ill seem to like Group Therapy. It's like a 10c, but I can't quite remember. Its in Jackson Falls, Illinois. About 6(?) bolts and around 60 feet tall.
|
|
|
|
|
eric_k
May 8, 2007, 7:39 PM
Post #13 of 53
(7073 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2006
Posts: 190
|
I have climber group Therapy and it has super positive holds, it overhangs qutie a bit too. 5.10c
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
May 8, 2007, 8:04 PM
Post #14 of 53
(7034 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
Jug "hall"? If you climb trad, try Built to Tilt at Shortoff Mtn in NC. I'm sure the Gunks has a few also. Anything at the Red?
(This post was edited by j_ung on May 8, 2007, 8:06 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
joshy8200
May 8, 2007, 8:05 PM
Post #15 of 53
(7032 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 646
|
Um...considering you're asking for the 'best', sport routes are OUT in my opinion. Routes that would be my contenders: "Built to Tilt" 5.10a Shortoff Mtn, Linville Gorge, NC The poster route of Linville Gorge: "Lost in Space" 5.10b Hawksbill, NC "Welcome to Watagua" Ship Rock, NC 5.10d "Bimbo's Bulge" Moore's Wall, NC 5.10d Now those are some jug hauling, kick ass routes.
(This post was edited by joshy8200 on May 9, 2007, 2:19 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
May 8, 2007, 8:07 PM
Post #16 of 53
(7028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
Wah-ha! Just beat you on Built to Tilt. Your list is excellent. Add Break On Through and I think we have a winner.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
May 9, 2007, 11:54 PM
Post #17 of 53
(6930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
joshy8200 wrote: Um...considering you're asking for the 'best', sport routes are OUT in my opinion. . stay out of the fuckin' sport climbing forum then Trad tard or get out more and you'd see there are thousands of amazing sport lines.. or better yet.. don't so there is one more parking space in the lot why why WHY must people who are so against sport climbing post their shit in the sport climbing forum.. this happened the same way with the quick draw thread a few weeks ago.. i mean FUCK just shut the hell up if you hate it so much.
|
|
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
May 10, 2007, 12:33 AM
Post #18 of 53
(6900 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
|
I don't have a problem with putting jug hauling trad lines on the list. i just don't know any 5.10 trad lines in the NE that are Jug hauls. i was going to say thin Air but that is only a six:) I allmost want to say Prince of darkness in RR but that is more crimps than jugs. i still can't get over how much fun Armed, dangerous and off My medication is
|
|
|
|
|
rocknice2
May 10, 2007, 1:03 AM
Post #19 of 53
(6877 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2006
Posts: 1221
|
tradmanclimbs wrote: I just don't know any 5.10 trad lines in the NE that are Jug hauls. Try... Spider's Web in Keene Valley Adirondacks, NY On The Loose - 5.9+++ Big, overhanging hand+/- crack system that dominates the right end of the wall. Tape up and get moving - good secure jams if you can hang out long enough to find 'em. A contender for the world's hardest 5.9. (Rated 5.9+ and done by "Hot" Henry Barber in '77!!)
|
|
|
|
|
endercore
May 10, 2007, 4:47 AM
Post #20 of 53
(6838 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 100
|
breakfast burrito drive by crag rrg
|
|
|
|
|
joshy8200
May 10, 2007, 4:50 AM
Post #21 of 53
(6836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 646
|
jakedatc wrote: joshy8200 wrote: Um...considering you're asking for the 'best', sport routes are OUT in my opinion. . stay out of the fuckin' sport climbing forum then Trad tard or get out more and you'd see there are thousands of amazing sport lines.. or better yet.. don't so there is one more parking space in the lot why why WHY must people who are so against sport climbing post their shit in the sport climbing forum.. this happened the same way with the quick draw thread a few weeks ago.. i mean FUCK just shut the hell up if you hate it so much. What's wrong with you? Not enough sex? Too much sport climbing? Jeez dude, I hate to burst your 5.10 sport climbing jug haul bubble. I didn't even notice the forum that this topic was listed in. Had I noticed that I wouldn't have posted anything negative about sport climbing. Again, sorry I interrupted the sport climbing circle jerk.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
May 10, 2007, 5:12 AM
Post #22 of 53
(6819 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
joshy8200 wrote: jakedatc wrote: joshy8200 wrote: Um...considering you're asking for the 'best', sport routes are OUT in my opinion. . stay out of the fuckin' sport climbing forum then Trad tard or get out more and you'd see there are thousands of amazing sport lines.. or better yet.. don't so there is one more parking space in the lot why why WHY must people who are so against sport climbing post their shit in the sport climbing forum.. this happened the same way with the quick draw thread a few weeks ago.. i mean FUCK just shut the hell up if you hate it so much. What's wrong with you? Not enough sex? Too much sport climbing? Jeez dude, I hate to burst your 5.10 sport climbing jug haul bubble. I didn't even notice the forum that this topic was listed in. Had I noticed that I wouldn't have posted anything negative about sport climbing. Again, sorry I interrupted the sport climbing circle jerk. When we want the opinion of another 5.8 trad poser we'll give it to you. Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on May 10, 2007, 8:13 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
superbum
May 10, 2007, 5:43 AM
Post #23 of 53
(6800 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Posts: 822
|
out of what I've climbed... Mr Slate, The Pit, Flagstaff, AZ Hardly Wallbanger, Owens River Gorge, Bishop, CA Tribal Boundaries, City of Rocks, Almo, ID
|
|
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
May 10, 2007, 11:54 AM
Post #24 of 53
(6760 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
|
Rock and ice, You just described a JAM Crack Not a Jug Haul....
|
|
|
|
|
zakadamsgt
May 10, 2007, 12:40 PM
Post #25 of 53
(6735 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2006
Posts: 110
|
Hmmmm for me I really enjoyed Spawn at South Clear Creek OBED River Gorge, TN. It's a 110' haul, all jugs, super classic 10 bolts, with a great view from the top of the gorge
|
|
|
|
|
|