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micronut
May 26, 2004, 8:07 PM
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In reply to: it took him 2 years to send, and Sylvain dispatched it with relative ease.
It's comparing apples to oragnes. Take your hardest redpoint at your local crag, for me.12a/b. I can usually do routes that fit my style at this grade at my local crag in a few days to a few weeks., WHEN WEATHER CONDITIONS ARE RIGHT, I HAVE THE RIGHT PARTNER, I'M INJURY FREE, AND PSYICIALLY PEAKING. I can tell you right now that if I went on a two week trip to France and tried to send at my limit, it would be a whole different thing. The chances of success would be very low.
Regarless, Chris Sharma did an amazing thing, his send was beautiful, and I'm sure so was Millet's. It's the medicore rank and file that even care what the # is. And also, it's always easier to repeat something that's been done than to pioneer. Hat's off to both these exceptional and gifted athletes.
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junkie
May 26, 2004, 8:08 PM
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As a random thought (please note I'm not agreeing or disagreeing with the original post, merely commenting on your responses):
When ANYONE in the world claims a V16/15b/c or other hard climb, everyone in this forum jumps up and down and calls them liars. Dai Koyomada (V16), Fernandez (Chilam Balam, 15c) are both great examples.
THEN someone DARES question the god-like status of Sharma, and everyone defends the grade. It's Sharma after all.
Just noting the basic hypocrisy of this forum.
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bustloose
May 26, 2004, 8:10 PM
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In reply to: Its always tons easier watching someone else try a route first. Then you see what works and what doesn't. EDIT: of course none of us could ever send it.
what? the sequence at the top is no mystery... watching video footage would not shave weeks of effort from the send...
have any of you actually read my responses before posting?
On any given day, you will all jump down the throat of some unknown Euro who proposes 15, V15 or whatever, and immediately say that he has not enough experience on that grade, or what has he ever repeated, or, why hasn't he sent Realization then? AND NOW some of you are saying that i am taking away from Millet's accomplishment, and that he deserves his moment in the sun blah blah blah... are you not concerned that he 'hasn't climbed enough routes at that grade to make a decision'? no, you're just upset that you think it makes Sharma look bad. no i am not a 'sharma hater' grow up. i'm just shedding a little new light...
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drrock
May 26, 2004, 8:15 PM
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wyattearp
May 26, 2004, 8:18 PM
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Just so you know Millet was the 2nd ascentionist of the original Biographie 8c+ , and now that he has repeated Relization, I would givemore props to Sharma for sending it amoungst a couple trips, while Millet has the ability to climb it everyday! And now he is downgrading the original 8c+, sounds like some good old BS, and who knows what the grade is Climbing Magazine was the one to rate it how funny is that, Sharma never gave it a grade, the INDUSTRY did, !
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sticky_fingers
May 26, 2004, 8:20 PM
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In reply to: i'm just shedding a little new light...
Then please quote WHERE you heard about the possibility of it being downgraded. I, along with probably everybody else, have been checking this on 8a.nu, but can't find anything relating to a downgrade. I think people are upset with you because of the unsubstantiated downgrade you say Millet suggested.
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dynoguy
May 26, 2004, 8:21 PM
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Don't turn this into jab fest at Sharma, he never graded the damned thing.
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taraus_de_bull
May 26, 2004, 8:23 PM
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In reply to: have any of you actually read my responses before posting? On any given day, you will all jump down the throat of some unknown Euro who proposes 15, V15 or whatever, and immediately say that he has not enough experience on that grade, or what has he ever repeated, or, why hasn't he sent Realization then? AND NOW some of you are saying that i am taking away from Millet's accomplishment, and that he deserves his moment in the sun blah blah blah... are you not concerned that he 'hasn't climbed enough routes at that grade to make a decision'? no, you're just upset that you think it makes Sharma look bad. no i am not a 'sharma hater' grow up. i'm just shedding a little new light...
Read my posts, i did ask what else has he sent.
also, it doesn't matter who sent it, the guy made a cool send, why do you have to bash it with all this trash just to bad mouth sharma. you obvious don't like sharma and i'm gathering americans in general. your just looking for a reason to bad mouth him. soon your going to bad mouthing caldwell for flex luther.
second, sharma never graded it, so why would down grading it make him look bad? one strong person in the world repeated something that he did. almost all the other mutants have tried and failed, it called be call 6a and and it wouldn't take away from sharma's great work on a climb that he only got on when he was in ceuse. As someone pointed out, thats millets backyard, it obviously gives him an advantage. but none the less, he did it and only ONE other human in the world has too. no matter the grade, both of these to guys deserve serious repect for the send.
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leaverbiner
May 26, 2004, 8:24 PM
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In reply to: oh my. nothing funnier than a bunch of people spouting off without any actual knowledge of the subject at hand. pathetic. this is exactly how rumours get life and continue to grow. just shut up already.
Sound Familiar? Your own words seem quite fitting for your commentary on this topic . . . stop hating, a repeat of Realization is fantastic . . . who the F' cares if it gets a lower rating than originally thought (notice I don't say down rating, because it WAS NEVER RATED by anyone ofther than the press and sponsors). . . ti was a remarkable feat by someone that had a personal accomplishment. Pretty simple, leave it at that.
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drrock
May 26, 2004, 8:27 PM
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slablizard
May 26, 2004, 8:28 PM
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Very true.
Happened the same thing with Mauro Calibani and Tonino 78 (V15).
[quote="When ANYONE in the world claims a V16/15b/c or other hard climb, everyone in this forum jumps up and down and calls them liars. Dai Koyomada (V16), Fernandez (Chilam Balam, 15c) are both great examples.
THEN someone DARES question the god-like status of Sharma, and everyone defends the grade. It's Sharma after all.
Just noting the basic hypocrisy of this forum.
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junkie
May 26, 2004, 8:39 PM
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Wideguy,
You are correct. I should have been more critical of the American climbing media, who touted it as 15a even though Sharma never said anything. I retract any criticism of Sharma himself.
The point remains that this forum is quick to slag someone if they claim something new. In this case, someone (so we've been told) dared to downgrade the route that is the darling of American Media. How dare they?
This forum is hypocritical. If it's an american ascent, then everyone loves it. If it's a guy with a name like Koyomada, Rouhling or Calbani, then everyone here jumps all oevr them and calls them liars.
Open your world view (not YOU Wideguy, but this forum in general).
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moeman
May 26, 2004, 8:41 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: THEN someone DARES question the god-like status of Sharma, and everyone defends the grade. No, I hear a bunch of people defending Sharma on in regards to the fact that SHARMA NEVER GRADED IT!! A couple of you guys are focusing on what Sharma said it was vs. what Millett says it is and it's comparing apples and elephants. Sharma never said. And I bet if you'ld ask him, Sharma would say, "Cool. He nailed that? Awesome. Fun climb." Obviously Millet is one of very few freakishly strong climbers in the world. So is Sharma. And let's face facts, 14d vs. 15a (9a xs. 9a+)... what's the freaking difference? Both fantastic feats worthy of notice.
Exactly. As Sharma said, "Climbing isn't about the math" (or something like that. They are both redonkulously strong, and I'm sure Sharma is very happy for Millet, downgrade or not. I've heard that Sharma is a very cool guy in that respect. Maybe the two of them can meet up and smoke a bowl sometime...
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edge
May 26, 2004, 8:43 PM
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Great last few posts, group hug.
I'm curious though, what did the Euro media assign for a grade, or did they? Definately not trying to start anything up again, but how did they describe Realization?
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jakedatc
May 26, 2004, 8:47 PM
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hahahahhaha i knew this would happen once someone else sent it..
either the guy was gunna be "i'm super strong i agree it's 15a" or "i'm super strong that's only 14 blah blah" Either way.. you need at least a 3rd to make an average
as to the time spent working it... if this millet guy was the 2nd guy to do Biographie then you gotta add the time he worked that into his time on Realization dontcha think? if he has the bottom moves wired well in advance of trying the top he'll be less pumped while trying the top moves
someone else talked about sharma bouldering mostly before he started doing that... he had to build his endurance back up to his route climbing standards. sure he did it on the route he was training for.. but why not take care of both at the same time
LOL and either way without a legitamate source for ANY of it.. it's all speculation and crap
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simianboy
May 26, 2004, 8:57 PM
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Oh no, an ungraded climb just got downgraded.
The only logical explanation must be that this evil Millet guy downplayed his life's greatest achievement to participate in a worldwide anti-Sharma conspiracy.
It's just not fair, I tell ya.
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climb_plastic
May 26, 2004, 9:03 PM
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In reply to: And let's face facts, 14d vs. 15a (9a xs. 9a+)... what's the freaking difference?
That's a whole grade difference. There's only less than a handful of people in the world that have done 5.15. Chris Sharma isn't even one of them. He climbed Realization....he never graded it so whatever Millet says is the grade is going to be the grade because it's never been rated by anyone who has actually climbed it. Actually no one has ever been confirmed to have climbed a 5.15 yet because they're so fricken hard there aren't enough people in the world who climb hard enough to repeat them.
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cloudbreak
May 26, 2004, 9:10 PM
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In reply to: bandyboy... shut up already, ok?
Okay BL, why do want to resorted to name calling.
Oh, look at that, your last name is Barnaby. That's a little close to BARNEY don't you think?
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curt
May 26, 2004, 9:17 PM
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Curt has moved this thread to the Rona Barrett gossip forum, where all the posts are about people who lead more interesting lives than those posting do. :D :D :D :D
Curt
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jumaringjeff
May 26, 2004, 9:24 PM
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well, I mean, I don't give a rat's ass about any of this, so that automatically makes it a stupid subject.
Good day.
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screamer
May 26, 2004, 9:25 PM
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Great send of a beautiful climb...Props to Millet
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bandycoot
May 26, 2004, 9:40 PM
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Bustloose:
In reply to: the point, which all of you are so helpfully proving, is that you are only upset about the downgrade because Sharma was the FA. you are all so fast to step on any 'new' 15a or harder, and downgrade routes and problems that you have never even set eyes on, but as soon as your beloved Chris is in the picture it's a different story...
What does this have to do with "beloved Chris"? It's not like we're lying to make him look good like you lied to make him look bad. I think you should wonder why you don't like him?
I second the props to Millet! Great send!
Josh
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ullr
May 26, 2004, 9:40 PM
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Blah, blah, blah. Yawn, sleep.
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climbin_high
May 26, 2004, 10:10 PM
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In reply to: Blah, blah, blah. Yawn, sleep. |
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