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jumaringjeff


Apr 1, 2005, 7:41 PM
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jJeff, how's the digit :?:


not well. I thought it was getting better last week but it seems to have gotten worse for no reason. I'm having an MRI done next week. test results notwithstanding, the simple fact is my doctors don't want me climbing this summer.


have fun kids. see you around. this is jumaringjeff, signing off.


ambler


Apr 1, 2005, 8:09 PM
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not well. I thought it was getting better last week but it seems to have gotten worse for no reason. I'm having an MRI done next week. test results notwithstanding, the simple fact is my doctors don't want me climbing this summer.
That's unfortunate. I climbed once with an injured partner who could mainly use one arm -- there's a route name and a Supertopo story about it, out there somewhere.

Or another guy who taped two fingers together because one was a "dummy" with no strength at all. From these encounters, I figured one could fake it sometimes, at least on low-angle moderates like Whitehorse.

But on the other hand, or foot, I've had 3 surgeons tell me this year they're surprised I can walk at all, so I know that sinking feeling.


Partner cracklover


Apr 1, 2005, 9:03 PM
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Every time I have crawled over, under, and around the Finger of Fate, I can't help but say a little prayer, "Please don't move, please don't move."

Ya got me! 8^)

GO


Partner cracklover


Apr 1, 2005, 9:12 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In re to Directissima,
In reply to:
Undercling at the Up move makes it 5.8. I learned that 30 years ago.

Tried that first - couldn't reach.

GO

Yes you can

Well, I did eventually reach it, but only by barely holding onto that low hold with my left hand while hooking onto the high hold with one knuckle, then inching more onto as I was able to shift my weight up. My point was just that it was no gimme, even on TR.

GO


jakedatc


Apr 1, 2005, 10:55 PM
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well as of today CR was 99.9% dry.. too bad that's gunna change :(

saw that short dark haired regular self belaying up the finger crack. i did the R-L traverse with much pumpage. did the flake problem then a couple repeats of an easy problem on the lower boulder.. uhh Ed and some other guy came in as i was leavin'

so nice out too

sucks you couldnt have come rob.. doh!
Jake


ratherbe


Apr 3, 2005, 1:51 AM
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Hi, sounds like Spring has hit with good times at the Gunks and around town!!

Quick J Tree report... after a slow start, I managed to find comfort on cracks and slabs (finally stopped dreaming of Gunky horizontals). Stuck with the 5.5 - 5.7 range for leads and played on some 5.9 and 5.10 top ropes at various times. Had some weather issues... strong cold wind a couple of the days, but overall, good stuff.

Didn't end up on the often mentioned climbs of either Geronimo or The Eye... sorry to all who suggested them. Anyone who is looking for a High E type of exposure when in J Tree should do Fote Hog... the first pitch has a burly pull through a roof, I was happy just following that!

Some spray....
Favorite Lead: Life's a Bitch Then you Marry One (5.7) - Wonderland of Rocks area.
Favorite Top Rope: Ceremony (5.10c) - Atlantis Wall, Lost Horse... very fun crimpy and balancy beginning.
Need to Lead next time: White Lightning (5.7)... probably could have done it this time, but first couple moves are intimidating, seconding it was enough for me!
Best meal: Crossroads Burger... that was a cool place.

Pictures soon.

Jen


jakedatc


Apr 3, 2005, 1:55 AM
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Nice jen.. cant wait for pics

welcome to the flood. hope you brought your ark back with you


Partner cracklover


Apr 3, 2005, 3:48 AM
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Are you back now Jen? Sounds like you had a good time! No epics? Well, at least you have pictures, eh? Look forward to seeing 'em!

GO


havmpt


Apr 3, 2005, 5:03 AM
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Hi all, I have internet again!!! :D Any plans for another climber's gathering? I should get in on this stuff while I still feel small enough to walk without a waddle. :lol: The babe feels like he/she's doing dynos in there, with the occassional heel hook!
speaking of... Chad- How's Kim and family doing??
Everyone else- HAPPY SPRING!! Enjoy the climbing, and heck with the rain!

Cheers,

Holly- aka pregnant beer wench


orangekyak


Apr 3, 2005, 1:40 PM
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I'm hoping to host a climbing/poker soire sometime soon ... I'm expecting that my new holds will arrive this week so the wall will be slightly more pimped.

Details to come.


ratherbe


Apr 3, 2005, 2:13 PM
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Yep, I'm back... and the pics are approved.

This isn't that great as far as photos go, but it's got me in it, so I like it!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...n=Show&PhotoID=51570.
There's a couple others as well... view and enjoy!

No real epics. Near epic on one descent... a lot of scrambling off steep boulders, we even placed a piece or two to get through a couple spots.

Jen


mnatti


Apr 3, 2005, 2:42 PM
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Hey, I'm not sure if this is even the right place to ask this.... I think this is still the Mass climber's forum....... are there still group missions planned? I'm a cape ann climber looking to meet up with new folks and add people to my "gotta go climbing" list. If there was a vague schedule of times and locations that people went out, that would be cool. Otherwise, I'll just keep checking here to see if anyone is climbing in my neck of the woods!


jakedatc


Apr 3, 2005, 8:50 PM
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jer was this your week off or next?

55 and partly cloudy at rumney on tuesday :drools:


robbovius


Apr 4, 2005, 12:52 AM
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Significant progress on the attic wallie, all the framing is covered except for the bulge, which - derek, thank you for the excellent suggestion - I removed, recut slighly, and and remounted inverted hanging from the top, so it presents a short vert face over a small roof, about halfway up the overhang face. much more useful configuration.

used up about 2/3rds of a 100-count bag o' T-nuts

I'm gonna wait until I cover the bulge before I put any of the screw-ons I currently have. It's lookin' good. I'll be climbing on it this week!


bostonclimbah


Apr 4, 2005, 1:31 AM
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Hi mnatti. Just watch the board or post up. There's always lots going on.

As for myself, I tend to climb up your way at Red Rock when I can't make it up north.


nurocks


Apr 4, 2005, 1:36 AM
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Hey all...

I am debating heading out to Rose Ledges next weekend. Has anyone climbed there before? If so, what can y'all tell me about it?

Thanks a lot,
Jason


orangekyak


Apr 4, 2005, 2:09 AM
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from the routes dbase:
In reply to:
General Information: Rose Ledges, in Northfield Massachusetts, is a great traditional and toproping area. The rock is a horizontally banded gneiss, much like the rock at the Gunks. Because of this type of rock, the climbing tends to be on juggy overhangs and vertical cracks of all sizes. Most of the climbs can easily be led, due to the great number of gear-eating cracks, but since there are so many trees at the tops of the cliffs, it is easy to toprope the climbs as well.

There is also bouldering of all levels around the ledges. Good traverses and fun overhanging throws. Be creative and explore.

It's worth the drive. Decent mountain biking through there also. The main section of cliff is not huge, but every climb is worthwhile. Decent trees for TR. Bring slings. You'll be sharing, it's a pretty popular place.

Enjoy.


nurocks


Apr 4, 2005, 3:34 AM
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Thanks...


I read that in the routes section aswell, but I was looking for some genuine masshole sentiment.

I will deff check that place out before I leave for Texas. Thanks Jeremy.


Jason


Partner cracklover


Apr 4, 2005, 3:56 PM
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In reply to:
Hey, I'm not sure if this is even the right place to ask this.... I think this is still the Mass climber's forum....... are there still group missions planned? I'm a cape ann climber looking to meet up with new folks and add people to my "gotta go climbing" list. If there was a vague schedule of times and locations that people went out, that would be cool. Otherwise, I'll just keep checking here to see if anyone is climbing in my neck of the woods!

Hey mnatti. Yup, you've come to the right place.

First of all, you may have noticed that there's a lot of chummy conversation that goes on here. Please don't feel excluded - it's just that we've all gotten to know each other through climbing, and it is convenient to converse here. We try to keep off-topic stuff to a minimum. But my point is that once you've met folks, you'll probably feel a lot more at home in this thread.

Second, since we're just coming out of winter, there's been no time to organize regular events yet. There was a weekly event at Quincy Quarries last summer, and there will probably be something similar somewhere this year. There are also individual events, like the Mass FUG day, Jules' Rumney weekend bacchanals, and lots of random folks just posting that they're heading to this crag or that gym. If it's mentioned here, I can almost guarantee that you're invited to come. Do not wait for a personal invitation! Just post here or PM the person who mentions the event to clarify any questions you might have.

Third, there are two groups which have met weekly for many years - one on the south shore at Quincy Quarries, and one on the North Shore at a variety of crags. They have no afilliation with the rc.com MassClimbers, but there has been overlap. They're associated with the AMC, but no AMC affiliation is neccessary to join them - you just need to show up. PM me if you want more details.

See you around, and happy climbing!

GO


uasunflower


Apr 4, 2005, 5:43 PM
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jenn, your trip sounds like lots of fun! I'm enjoying a similar weather in red rocks right now - very windy and pretty cold. My tent was blown off this night, with me in it :cry:

oh well, but the climbing is amazing here - a couple highlights:

Tunnel Vision, 5-pitch 5.7 going through a tunnel with a headlamp
Frigid Air Buttress, 7-pitch 5.9 with a chimney that comes as close to the experience of being born as naturally possible (wise folks climb it on the outside...), and then an amazing headwall (Larry, awesome job doing that, thanks!!!)
Prince of Darkness, 6-pitch 10c shooting up on a straight black wall, although too repetitive a climbing for my total liking

Fun scrambling, desert immersion, and playing the first ascent game in the Valley of Fire with some characters of curious habits. A night ascent of a 2 pitch 5.4 desert tower.

That much for the first week. The second one is starting badly with rain, wind and cold. So the day will be passed in the movies/PC lab :)


Partner wideguy


Apr 4, 2005, 6:06 PM
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In reply to:
Hey mnatti. Yup, you've come to the right place.
If it's mentioned here, I can almost guarantee that you're invited to come. Do not wait for a personal invitation! Just post here or PM the person who mentions the event to clarify any questions you might have.

GO

Yeah what he said. Generally if it's posted publically consider it open.

Hope to meet up someday.


jakedatc


Apr 4, 2005, 6:08 PM
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Ok, so no one is up for rumney tomorrow sooooo

how about afternoon til dark session at CR? tues and/or wed


natdogg


Apr 4, 2005, 6:47 PM
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Rose Ledge is awesome. I recommend Tennessee flake, and double helix and marionette on the main wall. To the climbers right of the main wall is a big roof with Rhino Dyno, a sweet 5.10a, or it was 5 years ago anyway, with an easy yet intimidating dyno. These climbs are easy to find if as they are named after prominent features. If it is crowded just walk down the cliff band and there are plenty of smaller but nice climbs. Park on Poplar Mountain Road as it is the shortest and easiest walk up. Also if you paddle bring your boat as there is plenty of paddling in the area.

Also does anyone know if College Rock is dry enough to climb?


jakedatc


Apr 4, 2005, 6:50 PM
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It should be nate.. i was there before it rained friday before the monsoon and it was almost 100%.. i bet it's close to that again now after 2 days of dry weather and lots of wind .. the finger crack i bet is seeping a bit but still only 1/2 grade harder when it's like that


robbovius


Apr 4, 2005, 7:10 PM
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Jake I can't do CR in the afternoons, due to guitlessons obs mon thru wed, but friday after work is doable and defnintely sat during the day. weather's lookin' cooperative!

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