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robbovius
Apr 7, 2005, 8:16 PM
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Harsh, come to CR with me saturday...
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harshklimber
Apr 7, 2005, 8:19 PM
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no. bad mood, more so.
who's climbing sunday, and where (besides QQ)
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jakedatc
Apr 7, 2005, 8:30 PM
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In reply to: ...prude. :evil:
doomed....
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harshklimber
Apr 7, 2005, 8:35 PM
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rob - i cant on sat. I'm goin shooting. I could use shooting someone. I mean, something.
Come out and play on Sunday.
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pizzadragon
Apr 8, 2005, 6:45 AM
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Anyone going to Rose ledges this weekend?
Assuming the weather will not make a mess of things, i'll be there sat mornin with a newbie friend o' mine.
any Umass students or alumns going to be around? too bad i didn't get into climbing while i was in the valley...
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robbovius
Apr 8, 2005, 12:48 PM
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In reply to: rob - i cant on sat. I'm goin shooting. I could use shooting someone. I mean, something. Come out and play on Sunday.
I'll try. not sure what the famobs are yet.
anybody else up for CR between 10:am and 2:pm sat?
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robbovius
Apr 8, 2005, 8:07 PM
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D groovy. I have a commitment in the mid afternoon, RE: the 2 pm bail time, but hopefully I'll see you there. you'll be 2.5 miles from the infamous Robbovius Home Wallie too, which is now completely covered and awaiting holdage. gonna drill a couple more stones tonight.
later!
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ambler
Apr 9, 2005, 12:52 AM
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I was going to work all weekend but I just saw the forecast, damn! Anyone looking for partners up at Rumney either Sat or Sun?
L
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core
Apr 9, 2005, 1:41 AM
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Larry,
harsh, chris and I are kicking around ideas for this w/end. the gunks are too hot...QQ is too cold...Rumney sounds just right. What do you thknk about Sunday?
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ambler
Apr 9, 2005, 1:46 AM
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Sunday mostly sunny high of 57, here in S New Hampster sez weather channel. Good day to visit the Main Wall, check out the new variation to Polly Purebred or something.
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core
Apr 9, 2005, 1:51 AM
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sorry, I don't care about the temps...for some odd reason the 3 little bears was what popped in my head when I was planning travel time. :oops:
anyway, I'm game for a Sunday AM rendezvous. (I think Chris is in for sure and last I spoke to kathy she was too). What time did you have in mind?
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jakedatc
Apr 9, 2005, 2:57 AM
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larry,
Kate and i will be at Rumney again tomorrow (sat) it was sweet today. most stuff was dry at meadows, upper vadar, most of bonsai
we'll be in the parking lot between 10-10:30 green suburu
send me a pm and i'll check before we leave if we should wait for ya
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harshklimber
Apr 9, 2005, 4:37 AM
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larry - sun is better than sat. :wink:
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ambler
Apr 9, 2005, 3:39 PM
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So who'd be up for meeting 9:30 Sunday at Rumney, then heading up to Main Wall?
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harshklimber
Apr 9, 2005, 3:46 PM
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we're up for it. we were talkin gettin there by 10, but we'll shed half an hour to meet you there.
how about making a stop on lower vadar for me to conquer obi-wan?
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core
Apr 9, 2005, 5:31 PM
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yep 9:30 sounds good to me, the lot at main wall.
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ambler
Apr 9, 2005, 6:23 PM
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In reply to: yep 9:30 sounds good to me, the lot at main wall.
Kathy, as for Vader...I'm more keen to visit Main Cliff, which has longer routes, and grab belay turf before a crowd hits. But maybe we'll have enough folks to split up and meet later?
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harshklimber
Apr 9, 2005, 7:27 PM
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we'll work something out. rumney isn't going anywhere.
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ambler
Apr 10, 2005, 12:24 AM
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In reply to: larry, Kate and i will be at Rumney again tomorrow (sat) it was sweet today. most stuff was dry at meadows, upper vadar, most of bonsai we'll be in the parking lot between 10-10:30 green suburu send me a pm and i'll check before we leave if we should wait for ya
cheers,
L
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jakedatc
Apr 10, 2005, 2:51 AM
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Main wall is closed.. falcons have taken over for a few months so is yellowknife, prudental and uhh sumtin else meebe up that way
tons of dry stuff elsewhere though
today was pretty fun.. stayed in VT last night.. got to the parking lot around 10:30 this morning. met up with some of grape's friends. and this guy Derek from NoRope/UNH
looked at parking lot.. full of the usual noobs as well as meadows so we skipped all of it and went up to upper vadar.. still busy at lower vadar so we hopped over to Lower new wave and did a bunch of stuff there.. caught a few short whips by grape's friend john on Bullwinkle's crater. he couldnt finish it so i 1 hanged it in early season lead form.. 1 hanged Debbie does cpr while the others played on the 8 and 9 .. derek had to leave so we walked back that way and finished up the day on a few 7's and a 9 at parking lot wall
good times.. good fun.. good freakign weekend
Jake
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robbovius
Apr 11, 2005, 12:47 AM
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Great morning at CR sat, and another today. Sat, saw Dbyte & freinds, Amy (non-MC thread CR regular) & freinds, Jeff (non-MC thread CR regular) reaquainted with several old favorites. only fell of send money once before completing hte original version (but had nothing for the straight-up thin face version), had enough beans for Excersize & Militant right each in one try, but got stuffed on Whites of my eyes, and thusly gave Dbyte's friend Kristen a nice ride (she's a waif, like Shane) 4 feet off the ground. ;-)
today burned my self up on the traverse. put together enough to make it to the grunge gully, but it was a slog. my hands kill.
picked up MANY (well, a dozen at least) peices of CR talus, took em home and drilled them (CR talus is very workable it turns out). I now have holds from both Tippling and CR on the attic wallie (and one bit from out back the new Lowes in Milford), which , ahem , is READY FOR CLIMBING. pictures to follow.
uh, I'm afraind I've built something that is going to pwn me, for much of the foreseeable future. damn! ;-)
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orangekyak
Apr 11, 2005, 2:24 AM
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I'm glad to hear that a bunch of you got out this weekend. the gunks was sick. warm warm warm. sunburn on my back, with the trademark "X" from gear sling and loose slings.
The crew consisted of Jen (ratherbe), Travis, Julius and me. We all had at least gym climbed with Jen, but otherwise we began the trip as acquaintences. Julius drove out early Saturday to meet the rest of us at Advanced Base Camp Worcester. Jen chauffered us from there, around little league parades in PaltzVegas, to the promised land.
Jen and I headed toward V-3, a climb that was calling to me from two weeks ago. Travis and Julius stopped to run up some 5.3s and get heads together.
V-3 proved to be a tough warm-up at 5.7. I found myself hanging mid-crux saying to myself "wtf am I doing up here? this is silly. I could still be in bed right now." A helpful passerby shouted some key beta that went something like this: "Get up in there and jam your shoulder in the corner. Next, reach up for the slot that's just out of reach"
my response: "so I should grovel?"
answer: "sounds about right"
I guess I should have listened to an earlier passerby who said "oh v-3? that one has a really squirrelly move up there."
It was ugly but we got'er done.
Half the day gone from my silly mental aerobics, we picked up our gear, and what was left of our pride, and moved over to Limelight. Jen was looking for an interesting lead, and I remembered Jake feeling really good about leading p1 a couple weeks ago.
She cruised it, perhaps in a speed record, with no audible whimpering, in stark contrast to my prior performance. Luckily, I remembered much of p2 from recently leading it, and it went well.
We finished the climbing day by rapping down to the ledge and running back up, via p2 of Three Doves. What a climb. I'll let Jen elaborate.
Saturday night kept alive the Bacchus tradition. Beer, burgers and darts (Jen won).
We walked over to Rock and Snow and closed the place before heading to the Multi Abuse. Travis burnt some firewood that our still-unknown sitemates had gathered (for us?), and we all got sleepy.
Noisy neighbors, partying college brats and honking drivers made a certain someone's snoring seem pretty tame. It was a long night.
Sunday morning arrived with a lot of sunshine. After brekkers at the deli and visits to the plastic palace of poo, we headed to the Nears to escape the crowd (hah).
I led Travis up Up Yours, a fun 5.7 that is home to many a wasp. Bring Raid if you go. Next, we hit Grease Gun Groove, a climb that never gets old to me.
We met up with Jen and Julius and headed to the Trapps because we ran out of climbs at the nears that didn't have circuses on them or at their bases.
Julius and Jen headed to Red Pillar, while Travis and I checked out the Middle Earth area. A bunch of parties were climbing and TRing p1 of Middle Earth. We wanted p2 and p3. Getting there was the hard part.
I suggested Wonderland, an 8- that angles up to meet ME atop p1. A nice fellow offered some beta for starting the climb, including where to place gear on this PG climb. So I slowly worked my way up the beginning of the climb, placing a couple small pieces of gear in marginal placements in the mostly featureless slab. I looked up at a long stretch that appeared to have little in the way of positive holds (and no protection at all), and wedged my smallest cam, a .5 dmm 4cu, behind a decent quartz crystal in a small, shallow crack.
Baby step, crimp, slide step, match on bad sloper, gaston, cross through feet on micro edges, stand up, BREATH ... pant pant pant ... by the way, do not keep this beta on record, it's wrong ... palm down, smear foot reach, high step to greasy quartz depression, pucker, pucker, crimp harder - crap it's dirty and greasy, crimp harder - that one's dirty tooooo
COMING OFF!!!
The fall didn't set any records, the cam held, Travis gave me a great catch. While rapping down later, a woman belaying at a rap station asked "are you the guy who almost decked on wonderland?" After explaining that I stopped a good six feet off the deck, she told me her story of inverting and stopping a foot from the ground one time.
Later we agreed it was 20 feet long. I was 8 feet over my smallest cam, which was about 18 feet up. I gave my YAWP after falling and twirling at the end of my rope. In tact except for some skin loss from my right ankle, I felt enough adrenaline to want to get back on the horse.
I decided that instead of climbing the same terrain again, I'd traverse in from the beginning of wise crack and avoid the aweful slabby runout above some ankle breakers that I was lucky to fly past the first time. So I started at wisecrack and traversed in, and the rest of the pitch was far less eventful.
Travis followed well, including cleaning the very stuck DMM and finding the beta that I evidently had missed. He led p2 of ME, his first trad lead, and I led p3, which was as stellar as ever.
In the car later, Travis read the route description from Swain's Death Guide to the Gunks. It mentions traversing in from Wisecrack as 8- PG. The route the friendly guy at the base sent me up turned out to be 5.9 R. Oops. Next time I'll pay more attention to the death guide.
We were pooped after all that fun. Having over an hour to go before meeting Jen and Julius, we hitchiked down to the deli with some stoned college kids. We drank beers and chatted with some locals, then hitched back up the hill with one of them before meeting the others for the ride home.
The rest of the story involves burritos, expensive gas, and head bopping with Phish. I hope you enjoyed my story.
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core
Apr 11, 2005, 2:37 AM
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double post :x
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core
Apr 11, 2005, 2:39 AM
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great story jer! Today was a day of clipping bolts for us Rumney bound folks... Coincidentally my climbing day also ended with burritos and gas. :)
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ratherbe
Apr 11, 2005, 2:42 AM
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Gunks... yeah, Jeremy pretty much covered it. I must mention that it was not too hot. It was a couple of beautiful Spring days, pre-bug style.
I loved leading p1 of Limelight, had a kicker of a high after that. I love this stuff.
To expand on p2 of Three Doves... it was good stuff - a fun crimp/layback and balance move that I know I'm not ready to try leading! Made for a fun belay as I listened to Jeremy's cries of delight as he moved through it all.
Sunday morning consisted of a stroll up Gelsa. Having seconded this awhile ago, I remembered really enjoying the final pitch, so I politely offered the first two pitches to Julius and saved the fun for me. Then it was off to Red Pillar. I took p1 after hearing that the second pitch was a little harder. Lesson learned, don't listen to stranger's beta.... I found p1 to be harder than Limelight and had to sit myself down and talk myself out of the sweaty palms I was getting. Julius cruised up the second pitch and we both agreed that it was much easier than the first.
Good times.
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