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sungam
Sep 3, 2008, 12:44 AM
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artm wrote: sungam wrote: i_h8_choss wrote: damn sungam. thats huge! im jealous with a lame +3 1/2.  You know what they say about a long ape index.... stfu haggisdonny!
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howlostami
Sep 5, 2008, 4:32 PM
Post #127 of 179
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Damn! I'd never heard of anyone bigger than my +4 ape index, I thought I was special!
6'4" 195ish
grades don't matter to me cause I ain't got them :)
Lead 5.8, TR/sport 5.10 boulder V2
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milesenoell
Sep 6, 2008, 3:21 AM
Post #128 of 179
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6'2'' 185lbs and leading 10's with a sprinkle of 11's when I feel good.
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lofstromc
Sep 6, 2008, 3:59 AM
Post #129 of 179
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6'2" 186 lbs.
I climbed my best when I weighed 165, the down side is I wasn't getting laid at all.
I'd rather weigh 186 lbs.
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rtwilli4
Sep 11, 2008, 6:23 AM
Post #130 of 179
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I am 6ft, and about 155-160 depending on... a lot of things. I guess my ape index is how much longer my wingspan is than my height? In that case it's 3 inches.
I used to be 170-175 when I was lifting a lot. I find that I am a better climber at 155 than 170. That 15 lbs was ALL muscle, as I have never had much body fat and have trouble gaining any weight. That 15 pounds made me look better, but did nothing for my climbing. In fact, it weighed me down.
I don't train, but I do eat pretty healthy. I rarely work a routes or pay much attention to anything but having fun. I probably drink and smoke too much. I don't get enough sleep. That said, I feel that I'm a pretty good climber (onsite 5.11's when I'm climbing a lot). I attribute it to my balance and flexibility more than anything else because I'm certainly not very strong (can't do one arm pull up's). Dropping pounds and being a little too skinny for my liking actually makes me a better climber.
(This post was edited by rtwilli4 on Sep 11, 2008, 6:33 AM)
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rtwilli4
Sep 11, 2008, 6:25 AM
Post #131 of 179
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lofstromc wrote: 6'2" 186 lbs. I climbed my best when I weighed 165, the down side is I wasn't getting laid at all. I'd rather weigh 186 lbs.
yea notice how I said in my last post that I was "too skinny for my liking." This is what I was talking about. Of course I have a hot little girlfriend so it's ok :)
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hyongx
Sep 11, 2008, 6:31 AM
Post #132 of 179
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sungam wrote: +5 inch ape. BEat that, fuckers!
My ape index is +7 inches.
My height is 5'6"
wingspan 6'1"
But that's only because I was born without a right foot, or fibulas in either leg. My lower legs are way short for my body size - i am way out of proportion, with my torso being way too tall. I think if I had developed normally, I might be like five inches taller.
But all that said, i'm about 155lb and redpoint 5.11b sport on a good day. 5.8 trad.
To anyone who says they're not naturally talented at climbing, I've been climbing five years. Cut off your foot and start training.
(This post was edited by hyongx on Sep 11, 2008, 6:33 AM)
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sungam
Sep 11, 2008, 9:27 AM
Post #133 of 179
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@7 inch ape index... damn.
@other do you use a prosthetic foot or anything?
I've seen one guy with a climbing shoe rig pulling down pretty hard.
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hyongx
Sep 11, 2008, 5:22 PM
Post #134 of 179
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sungam wrote: @7 inch ape index... damn. @other do you use a prosthetic foot or anything? I've seen one guy with a climbing shoe rig pulling down pretty hard.
I only have one prosthetic leg - the same one i use for walking or hiking, i use for climbing. I just put on a climbing shoe. It would be sweet to get a special climbing foot, but I'm not sure how that would work with my setup.
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sungam
Sep 11, 2008, 5:59 PM
Post #135 of 179
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hyongx wrote: sungam wrote: @7 inch ape index... damn. @other do you use a prosthetic foot or anything? I've seen one guy with a climbing shoe rig pulling down pretty hard. I only have one prosthetic leg - the same one i use for walking or hiking, i use for climbing. I just put on a climbing shoe. It would be sweet to get a special climbing foot, but I'm not sure how that would work with my setup.
Do a photo search for fat cat crack foot or something. He said it didn't work as well as he would have liked, though.
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Hotpies
Sep 11, 2008, 6:52 PM
Post #136 of 179
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I haven't jumped on a scale in a while, but here's a picture of me.
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hyongx
Sep 11, 2008, 6:52 PM
Post #137 of 179
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sungam wrote: I think it was mal, correct me if I'm wrong here, who made a special crack foot or something. Do a photo search for fat cat crack foot or something. He said it didn't work as well as he would have liked, though.
Malcolm Daly?
I've met him a couple times - something always seems to come up to stop us climbing together, though.
Yeah, his foot is pretty cool. He said it was great for face climbing, but crack climbing is just fucked, no matter what you do, because you can't rotate the ankle and compress your foot to jam it in the crack.
Whenever I climb crack, I just sort of have to stick that foot in paralell to the ground and hope it catches on some constriction or irregularity. I think in splitter stuff, I'd be s.o.l., but I've not climbed anything like that yet.
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stymingersfink
Sep 11, 2008, 7:13 PM
Post #138 of 179
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hyongx wrote: sungam wrote: I think it was mal, correct me if I'm wrong here, who made a special crack foot or something. Do a photo search for fat cat crack foot or something. He said it didn't work as well as he would have liked, though. Malcolm Daly? I've met him a couple times - something always seems to come up to stop us climbing together, though. Yeah, his foot is pretty cool. He said it was great for face climbing, but crack climbing is just fucked, no matter what you do, because you can't rotate the ankle and compress your foot to jam it in the crack. Whenever I climb crack, I just sort of have to stick that foot in paralell to the ground and hope it catches on some constriction or irregularity. I think in splitter stuff, I'd be s.o.l., but I've not climbed anything like that yet.
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jakedatc
Sep 11, 2008, 8:47 PM
Post #139 of 179
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You are thinking Hugh Herr he made different shoes for different cracks etc etc. The one time i met him (before i knew who he was) he just had small circles with rubber on them for the face climbing where we were at.
but yea.. Mal is also a good source for ideas on that stuff.
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hyongx
Sep 11, 2008, 9:10 PM
Post #140 of 179
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stymingersfink wrote: I would think that for climbing the splitters, you'd actually have a distinct advantage...
mhmm.
Keep tellin yourself that.
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docky
Sep 14, 2008, 2:38 PM
Post #141 of 179
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I way around 175 . HT 5.10 climb V8 to V10 and around 13c sport. Weight is a factor on your fingers. But only to a certain extent. You will lose power in your body and four arms if you lose to much weight to fast so go slow. I am on the big side for climbing at 5.10 175. My best strength to weight ratio is 165 to 168 that is my goal by the end of the year. Core strength is key when you are a bigger climber gl
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sungam
Sep 14, 2008, 4:10 PM
Post #142 of 179
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since when is 175 a "big" climber?? I wiegh like 50 pounds more then you, dude, that's like a third of your weight!
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Maddhatter
Sep 14, 2008, 4:38 PM
Post #143 of 179
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I'm 5'7" tall and around 150 to 160 pounds
+3 ape
I find being short can be a good thing on trad but can really suck on sport. Maybe I just tell myself that! LOL
I climb pretty solid 5.10 on both most days.
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yosemite26
Sep 14, 2008, 4:57 PM
Post #144 of 179
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ya....im goin 5'7" at 115.....climbing up to 10c....im also only 15
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docky
Sep 15, 2008, 11:14 AM
Post #145 of 179
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At a high lvl 175 at 5.10 is BIG. Sharma at 6 foot 165 to 175 is what he told me. He is BIG like a monkey in person to. You would think he was 200 bills easy. But any how there are guys out there that climb real hard and weigh a lot more than me. My good mountaineer buddy is around 180 to 185 and 5 .8 tall. He free soloed temple crag in the sierras 14 piches at a 13 thousand foot top out CRAZY . The next day it rained all day lucky me we were going to do 18 piches . If any of you get a chance to go to temple crag. It is a world classic multi pich beautiful place. I dont trad much BUT WOW
(This post was edited by docky on Sep 15, 2008, 11:20 AM)
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Graebel
Sep 15, 2008, 12:16 PM
Post #146 of 179
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We just had the height/weight ratio argument the other day. Pound for pound the best climber in our group is a friend's daughter. She's about 4'8", 60 lbs and at 9 is climbing 5.10b in the gym.
I'm ~135lbs 5'9" climb 5.11 top/10.c lead/V2.
And I don't think ape index matters as much in the gym as it does outside. We've got some real apes in our group and sometimes they can reach onto starts that I have to dyno.
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sungam
Sep 15, 2008, 2:38 PM
Post #147 of 179
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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You mean at altitude?
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docky
Sep 16, 2008, 6:06 AM
Post #148 of 179
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Well a 13 thousand foot top out Would definitely mean at altitude lolol . The climb starts at 11 thousand and TOPS out at 13 you are joking right 
(This post was edited by docky on Sep 16, 2008, 6:07 AM)
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docky
Sep 16, 2008, 6:56 AM
Post #150 of 179
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Here is a small picture. He solod the far left side 14 piches the middle is 18 and the front face is 32 it is a awesome beautiful place
(This post was edited by docky on Sep 16, 2008, 7:01 AM)
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