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lightandfast
Mar 11, 2005, 2:40 AM
Post #151 of 170
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Registered: May 31, 2003
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why does my experience matter. Iam not making this up. No matter what I say with regards to my experience it wont be enough.
You guys can take your little gumby award bullshit and shove it.
BTW the 3 point i made with refernce to a prussik lower than the belay device are straight from the ACMG manual.
guides are not taught to be dumbed down.
I give up.
go fuck yourselves you back patting assholes.
There now you got something to talk about.
Tarpit me or do what ever you clique do
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dirtineye
Mar 11, 2005, 2:51 AM
Post #152 of 170
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Jake, that's not an auto block, that's a kleimheist.
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jakedatc
Mar 11, 2005, 3:06 AM
Post #153 of 170
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is the autoblock wrapped the opposite way? its one of those things i have to do while i'm tied in or i cant picture it
called both here
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/Prusik.htm
HAHAHA if it looks like a troll... smells like a troll and talks like a troll..
in time honored tradition...
T2
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philbox
Moderator
Mar 11, 2005, 3:09 AM
Post #154 of 170
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You do not pass the ends through any other end for an autoblock. You simply wrap the prussik loop around the rope several times and then clip both ends to the biner.
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jakedatc
Mar 11, 2005, 3:23 AM
Post #155 of 170
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ah yes.. didnt even pay attention to that part .. but ur right
i only use them for multipitch raps .. which i dont do very often on single pitch sport .. i was just trying to show the difference so people didnt get the wrong impression.. since prussiks get messed up below right? someone stated that earlier on
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livingtheedge
Mar 11, 2005, 4:39 AM
Post #156 of 170
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Lightandfast wrote:
In reply to: why does my experience matter
Experience does help with understanding the important issues in climbing. Im not talking about learning how to use a simple belay device or how to tie a knot. When you gain actual experience you will start to see things and do things associated with climbing in a different way. You will instinctively adjust to certain issues, you will be a better judge of what’s going on and what to expect, and most importantly you get a feel for what’s a really bad idea.
Let me put it in a historical NON climbing perspective. During WW1 the new recruits were taught the basics of knife combat. IE where to stab someone in the chest if they charged at you. The directions were written very clearly in the manual and had step by step diagrams. However when they got to the front the seasoned veterans instantly took away the knives and showed the green troops how to use their spades in hand to hand combat instead. With a spade you lop off a head a head in one good swoop where as a bayonet would get lodged in the ribs of the enemy leaving the green troop vulnerable. This is just one case where good OLD FASHONED EXPERIENCE out did step by step instructions from "those that knew best".
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philbox
Moderator
Mar 11, 2005, 5:06 AM
Post #157 of 170
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Just brought this in here to the evidence locker to preserve this clueless n00Bs!!!111 post. I split this from the Rock climbing safety poll thread in general.
He is due for the next level tarpit for this. I gave him the option of self editing but it seems I have been ignored so say la vee mon amee oh hoh hoh (Phils really bad french accent) .
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philbox
Moderator
Mar 11, 2005, 5:11 AM
Post #159 of 170
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Second offence 1 week tarpit given.
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climbs4fun
Moderator
Mar 11, 2005, 8:12 AM
Post #161 of 170
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damn, I was hoping to see him tell john long he was a clueless noob :cry:
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viciado
Mar 11, 2005, 9:55 AM
Post #162 of 170
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In reply to: In reply to: As previously asked: Petzl says (draws) to rappel from belay loop. You criticize that, but then use their photo to defend... I am unclear here. Enlighten? I dont criticize it, I say its the way I do it. Take 2 seconds and read the posts more clearly
In reply to: you might have a point there. Iam unsure as to why you flip? Did you attach into your belay loop , and not the bottom loop (leg loop)? However for me I never use a fig.8 for rap. Thats old school, again back to the reverso ( threads in past) its the best tool to have.
The structure of your sentence provides for ambiguous interpretation. I read it as saying:
"I am unsure as to why you flip. [Could] you attach[ed] to your belay loop, and not the bottom loop (leg loop)."
I have taken more than the recommended two seconds to read and re-read. I see what you were attempting to communicate. In you response, I would have appreciated a better and more open attitude in that I have:
1) not flamed you (as well I could... for example: your lack of effort at searching on the site for how to post a foto. Hey, we all forget that once in a while)
2) not called you noob, ignorant, troll, wanker etc. (or any of the names that more experienced individuals have been using in reference to you.)
3) made the effort to provide an intelligent reply to your query as to why the back-up SHOULD be above the descent device.
I recognize that you or anyone else may choose another method. I further do not say that you are wrong to do so. I DID say that what you suggest is not functional for me and explained why. This was in response to your near demand that someone explain why one method is better over and above the other. I provided you with the answer that I have found to serve me best in over 20 years of climbing, instructing, and guiding. If trying something new and determing that my original way works better makes me old school, so be it.
My question to you was based on a lack of clarity. In that light I asked you to enlighten ME. This was a contextually appropriate request.
I am extremely tempted to stop being polite (go ahead, winge on about that), but then I am no good at bad mouthing people and there are so many sooo much more capable than I in that area...
(Warning: attention span expired... wandering off again.)
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edge
Mar 11, 2005, 1:18 PM
Post #163 of 170
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
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Damn these East coast time zones; damn them all to hell!
I miss all the fun.
Sort of inevitable that l&f would end up at this point. I really tried to be reasonable with him, to the point where, for the first time ever, I got a couple PMs from users asking why I didn't open up both barrels on him. Thank goodness I got to read his response here in M&E.
In reply to: why does my experience matter.
He also received my PM to his already tarpitted alter ego, so it looks like all of the bases are covered.
In reply to: Gotcha, phil. I was just feeling my oats a bit last night and you know what happens when I do that!
Martha, do you have video available of you feeling your oats? It's a valid question, really...
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phaedrus
Mar 11, 2005, 1:57 PM
Post #164 of 170
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Didn't think it'd take long before we'd have to slap that boy down. My guess is that irockclimbtoo is next. :P
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shorty
Mar 11, 2005, 4:11 PM
Post #165 of 170
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The bait:
In reply to: In reply to: I merely think he is trying to position himself for a GOTY award, perhaps in the best (worst) foreign contributor category. However, if he persists, he may win the overall GOTY outright. Curt, that would probably the "GOTY, eh" award. Ooh, but let's consider our fine friends from The Great White North, don' cha know. They may not take too kindly to poking fun at their idioms, darn tootin'. After all, Canada is all aboot some great skiing, climbing, and mountaineering. You bet 'cha.
lightandfast's pm to shorty on 3/10/05 @ 6:45pm, titled "award":
"f--- you"
[elvis]
Thank ya. Thank ya very much. [/elvis]
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wideguy
Mar 11, 2005, 4:30 PM
Post #166 of 170
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In reply to: In reply to: 3 advantages for prussik below device are, ( is it the argument changing?) 1 has to hold less weight, less likely to jam 3 is easy to loosen and continue rapping On number 1, how is the prussik holding less weight?? If it is below or above rap device and is actually being used, full body weight is being supported in both situations. On number 3, a prussik is equally hard/easy to loosen regardless of it being above or below the rap device.
1) Sadly I must agree with our contentious friend here. A prussik used below the device, or and autoblock for that matter, does not take full body weight . When used below, it merely has to replace whatever force your brake hand would normally supply to your BRD. However many pounds of force your hand must apply to your BRD to fully arrest your motion will of course vary by device and climber weight and a host of factors, but it is certainly less than full body weight. Your BRD and harness still support the body weight.
3) Not sure specifically about a prussik below but CERTAINLY with an autoblock, it is MUCH easier to release after loaded. Again, probably because it is taking less actual force and not setting as hard to begin with. Try it sometime, it is true. Others can explain it more scientifically than I can, I'm sure. But it is defintely true.
All of this is, of course irrelevant, to the contention that rappelling with split hands is wrong and dangerous. On that point I still think he's misguided.
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hosh
Mar 11, 2005, 5:07 PM
Post #167 of 170
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
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wow! this little shouting match is still going on? Interesting...
Hosh.
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viciado
Mar 11, 2005, 8:27 PM
Post #168 of 170
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Registered: May 9, 2003
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Yep! kinda fun ain't it?
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curt
Mar 11, 2005, 8:49 PM
Post #169 of 170
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In reply to: The bait: In reply to: In reply to: I merely think he is trying to position himself for a GOTY award, perhaps in the best (worst) foreign contributor category. However, if he persists, he may win the overall GOTY outright. Curt, that would probably the "GOTY, eh" award. Ooh, but let's consider our fine friends from The Great White North, don' cha know. They may not take too kindly to poking fun at their idioms, darn tootin'. After all, Canada is all aboot some great skiing, climbing, and mountaineering. You bet 'cha. lightandfast's pm to shorty on 3/10/05 @ 6:45pm, titled "award": "f--- you"
Look on the bright side. At least he finally managed to elucidate a coherent idea.
Curt
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shorty
Mar 11, 2005, 9:28 PM
Post #170 of 170
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Registered: Apr 28, 2003
Posts: 1266
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In reply to: At least he finally managed to elucidate a coherent idea. |
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