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woodse
May 23, 2005, 5:03 PM
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Lynn Hill can do <20. Alex Lowe could do >1000000. I don't think theres too much correlation.
woodsE
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davidorchard
May 23, 2005, 5:07 PM
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In reply to: Lynn Hill can do <20. Alex Lowe could do >1000000. I don't think theres too much correlation. woodsE
there is a major difference between men and women when it comes to pull ups.
IMO women tend to be better technically, men tend to be better at brut strength. so comparing the two is apples and oranges.
this is NOT intended to offend women out there, so correct me if i am wrong.
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gunkiemike
May 23, 2005, 11:59 PM
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In reply to: To many pull ups on a bar are bad for your shoulders.
The elbows aren't too fond of it either. I've got a three year old case of lateral epichondylitis (tennis elbow) that I attribute to too many chin ups.
But they can help if you're just generally weak. I remember when I was first starting, maybe my second year of casual climbing, and there was a sandbag 5.7 that we generally couldn't do. It involved a stout pull with one hand while the feet are smearing directy in front of you. In retrospect it called for core strength that I lacked. Over the winter I did a few chin ups nearly every day, and come spring I hiked that crux like it was 5.3.
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gunkiemike
May 24, 2005, 12:01 AM
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(duplicate post, sorry)
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extrasketch
May 24, 2005, 3:49 AM
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In reply to: Lynn Hill can do <20. Alex Lowe could do >1000000. I don't think theres too much correlation. woodsE
Alex Lowe was into the ice and mixed thing. Lynn wasn't. This winter/spring I doubled the amount of pull ups I can do and my ice skills went from Wi 3+ to wi5. My rock skills improved by a letter grade during that time. So I don't think being able to do more pull ups is really going to help.
though I do find it interesting that no one has talked about the type of climbing. Like being able to bust out 100 pull ups isn't going to help to much at an area like Smith where its all pockets footwork and technique. But on a route like Natural Log Cabin at Index which has burly 11b and 11d lieback cruxs being strong can make up for lack of technique.
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kriso9tails
May 24, 2005, 4:50 AM
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When I was 15 or 16 I could typically onsight 11- and had at least one 11+ onsight. I could only pull about 20 chin-ups off of a hangboard.
There was a route at the local gym that was about 40' of steep climbing that extended into a 30' horizontal along the roof. Gym grades don't really count for much, but for reference it was set at around a 9 at the time. Point being, despite the low nuber of chin-ups I could pull I could campus the entire route clean with the exception of one move on the head wall that was too long.
These days (at the grand ol' age of 22) I can still redpoint 11+ or perhaps a little harder, and if I wasn't such a wuss I could possibly onsight, but can only pull 15 chin-ups comfortably on average (never less though).
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supafox
Jun 7, 2005, 10:50 PM
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at our last comp after all was said and done they had a pullup comp as well, most of the junior guys cranked out 30+, the fogeys had trouble breaking 20 and most girls hit less than 10, however, that certainly wasnt the line up in the rankings at all.
also, if they can crank out their max chinups after a burly comp. then they havent come close to fatigueing these muscles during the comp.
would have been interesting to check lockoff strength as well
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adrenaline_smack
Jun 7, 2005, 11:28 PM
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if one has good climbing form, pull up strength is neglible as has been proven, but what hasnt been said is if you have bad form or no amount of form can get you feet on the rock then pull up strength is more than applicable.
think about when you first started climbing, wasnt it more of a campus session than anything else?
and speaking of campus sessions, you cant argue that pull up strength isnt usable in campus sessions, its essential
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healer09
Jun 8, 2005, 12:09 AM
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I can do about 35 pullups or so, I can climb 11c/d. My girlfriend can only get one on a good day, but she can still cruise up 11's.
I would say being able to do some pullups won't hurt you, but it is not as important as great technique
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sheesh
Jun 8, 2005, 12:51 AM
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most of the solid, trad and sport, 5.11+ through 5.12+ climbers i know can routinely do 20 pullups, many can do quite a few more.
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shire
Jun 8, 2005, 1:23 AM
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i can do about 150 pullups. v7 is my hardest send. 5.12 ssomething is my hardest sport...i can see no corelation, maybe it is inverse.
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mad_slacker
Jun 8, 2005, 1:38 AM
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pullups are great if you do them on progressivly smaller holds. They are also good if you add a weight vest. I change up my training so that my pullups train power, or endurance depending on the size of hold or the weight that I am carrying. Pullups on jugs do relativly nothing if you can do a lot of them because it would mostly improve endurance on a muscle that you do not use often except for the odd powerful move.
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crackmd
Jun 8, 2005, 1:44 AM
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I was able to do 14 pullups before I started climbing. Now 15 years later, I climb 5.12 and still only do 14 pullups. It does not seem like an exercise that translates well to climbing improvement. Maybe it's the missing link for me to get to 5.13, but I doubt it.
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la_revoution
Jun 8, 2005, 1:59 AM
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First of all, Pullups dont mean shit for climbing unless you are doing finger tip pullups. I can do about 20-25 of those.
Whats a lockoff?
~TY~
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adamj
Jun 8, 2005, 2:09 AM
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hello, I am a 5.12- climber, I onsighted a 5.11c in the New River Gorge (WV) recently called Aesthetica at the Endless Wall. I used to train a lot, before I was a stronger lead climber, b/c I thought it would make me strong. I got up to a point where i could do 17 pullups without stopping. When i had more time to climb, i stopped training for it. After about three months of no training, only climbing I did 25 pullups without stopping. Since then I've only trained where I need improvement. My advice, don't train unless you have to, the best way I've found for improving is just to climb more. Find what you need to do to improve (mental, physical, or spiritual) and focus on it, improvement will come. Just my opinion, hope it helps. Adam
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collegekid
Jun 8, 2005, 3:22 AM
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Forget two armed pullups, I wanna be able to do a one-arm (even if it has zero relation to climbing ability, it would still be cool!)
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ikefromla
Jun 8, 2005, 3:29 AM
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In reply to: Well, so far, interestingly enough, if you look at the number of pullups people can do (or their belief in the importance of pullups, lockoffs, front levers, etc), and compare them with the difficulty of routes they have listed in their profiles, then you would have to conclude that the correlation between pullups, etc, and climbing level is negative (ie, the relation is inverse). -Jay
i can do like 30 pullups and while i don't simply train pullups to do pullups, they find their way into my longer hangboard workouts. now check my routes. is there a relationship now big guy? :wink:
but seriously, it's not about number of pullups one can do... not at all. i use my feeeeet.
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ikefromla
Jun 8, 2005, 3:39 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Would be nice to have a more scientific way of looking at this. Good idea, anyone have any idea how we could do this? I will suggest we get all the data from everyone. Here is mine...
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA it's like one of those goddamn internet surveys i used to get in middle school (wow, i totally just gave away my age. ie young) :lol:
OK here is mine: :lol: i added a boulder problem category as i find it appropriate. (prepair the umbrellas)
age: 19
weight: 150 lb
height: 5' 10"
gender: male
hardest climb, sport: 13c
hardest climb, trad: 11 (appropriate to note that i haven't tried any harder)
hardest climb, boulder: V10 (one was 3 tries in ten minutes)
years climbing: 7
ape index: +4 inch
max pull ups: 28-29 ?
chalk style: loooooose
hair color: brown
eye color: blue
favorite shoe: Evolv Agro and Defy
#of kids: 0
favorite color: bluuuuuuuuuue
what now bitches? :roll:
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linguistbreaker
Jun 14, 2005, 1:41 AM
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I've been climbing at 5.12 for years and my onsight level is about there too. I've never been able to do more than 15 or 16 pullups. I used to train sets of ten but not anymore. If your technique is good, core strength is at least as important, so do some body levers. If you catch yourself doing something that resembles a pullup more than once in a blue moon while climbing (including bouldering), you REALLY need to work on your technique.
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esallen
Jun 14, 2005, 2:12 AM
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Have redpointed up to 11.b and can do about 15 pull-ups when I'm feelin' really good.
Eric
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c22
Jun 14, 2005, 6:22 PM
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Well here goes, unfortunately I live in the land of big boulders and little walls, so this might be a little skewed...
age: 16
weight: 140 lb
height: 5' 7"
gender: male
hardest climb, sport: none worth mentioning...
hardest climb, trad: 9 (I like to feel REALLY solid on trad)
hardest climb, boulder: V9
hardest climb, top rope: 13c
years climbing: 2
ape index: +3 inch
max pull ups: can't motivate myself past ten
chalk style: chunky
hair color: brown
eye color: blue
favorite shoe: cheap
#of kids: 0
favorite color: black
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flipnfall
Jun 14, 2005, 6:38 PM
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I've climbed 12 regularly and a couple 13s in my life. Pull-ups can have an affect on how well you perform, but it depends on the climb. All pull-up discussions need to start with the qualifying question, What kind of climb are you training for? Is it a slab climb, vertical or overhanging? Does it have roofs or poor foot holds? The kind of climb you are working on will determine wheter pull-up training well benefit you a little or a lot.
I've done 5.11 slab climbs where pull-up strength was of little advantage. If, however, you're working on a climb that requires lock-off strength, such as pulling the lip of a roof, pull-up strength and endurance can tremendously advantage you. There are 5.11 slab climbs (e.g., S.D. Needles) that require forearm endurance and little pull-up strength.
I would never discourage someone from working on their pull-up strength. Sooner or later it will come in handy.
GT
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bensnyder
Jun 14, 2005, 7:35 PM
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I'd bet most all 5.12 climbers can do at least ten, but otherwise I doubt there is little correlation between climbing ability and pull ups. There might be one with lock offs, however.
As for you're original question, I could crank out 35 when I climbed V Easy. I can only crank out 20-25 now, but I'm pulling down on harder climbs. Go figure...
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kurplunk
Jun 14, 2005, 7:50 PM
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If pull-up strength isn't that useful in climbing, how come my pull-ups went from 2 to 13 after just climbing a few years? (Actually 2 might be an exaggeration. I think I remember making only 1 during that Presidential Fitness Test in school.)
I found climbers I know who can do lots of pull-ups, can generally climb harder routes. Wouldn't be surprised if pull-up strength loosely correlates to other similar muscle groups. Genetic blessing.
Will adding pull-ups to my workout allow me to climb harder routes? Probably not much. Climbers are more likely to get stuck in weaker positions than the strength required for a simple pull-up. And those weaker areas are more beneficial to work on.
currently 13 pull-ups and 5.11-
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jt512
Jun 14, 2005, 11:21 PM
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In reply to: If pull-up strength isn't that useful in climbing, how come my pull-ups went from 2 to 13 after just climbing a few years? ... currently 13 pull-ups and 5.11-
If pull-up strength is so important in climbing, then how come I have friends who can climb at least a whole number grade harder than you that can't do as many pullups as you?
In reply to: Will adding pull-ups to my workout allow me to climb harder routes? Probably not much.
Isn't that a blatant contradiction of your claim above?
In reply to: Climbers are more likely to get stuck in weaker positions than the strength required for a simple pull-up.
What does that mean?
-Jay
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